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About jeepmjga

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    Comanche Fan

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  • Location
    Atlanta, Ga

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  1. Cool I will keep an eye out for ya if I'm over that way!
  2. Awesome I will check it out thanks! Btw where are you in ATL? I'm in East Lake area.
  3. Actually found a set of decent whole door panels and armrests yesterday for a decent price. I'll update the orig post. Thanks for looking out though!
  4. Well the interior is done for now, got the stereo in and all wired up, but still on the hunt for some replacement interior pieces. Now its just a waiting game for my new title to come in the mail, then ill finally be able to get this exhaust done and after that, just waiting on rear springs and bumpers.
  5. I'm guessing light? Didn't realize there were two shades whoops! Speaker grills I could go either way, just trying to get a factory cover over the opening. The PO put 6.5"s in and screwed the grills into the door through the panel.
  6. Specifically looking for... - B pillar trim - B pillar courtesy lights I am located in Atlanta, any info appreciated, thanks!
  7. Very random but I'm rewatching the X-files for like the 6th time and just spotted a Comanche in the very beginning of S6E1! It's driving away from the van on the opposite side of the road. Ok, you may now resume your day, that is all.
  8. Well, after much ado about nothing it seems, I finally took it for a legit drive around the neighborhood today! Clutch works great, brakes work great after a lot of head scratching and replacement parts. Ended up going with the Wilwood prop valve and deleting the rear height valve even though it turns out I probably didn't need to. Hopefully can make it to the exhaust shop on friday and then its on to figure out this dash electronics situation while waiting on the rear springs and bumpers. Thanks again to everyone that chimed in on the brake thread, this really is a great community! Cheer
  9. Well, first off thanks to all the help here. Secondly, I'm a dummy. The calipers were actually on the wrong sides, I guess I misunderstood what "bleeders on top" meant. They way I had them, the bleeders were above the brake line, it never dawned on me that they should be the other way until today. Live and learn I suppose! I ended up going with a Wilwood prop valve and deleting the rear height valve anyway after making that nifty adjustable set up. I guess at least now everything in the system is new except the lines Pics in my build thread, thanks again for all the suggestions and fro
  10. Yes, its a new booster with new check valve. Thats how I understood it. When I opened the front bleeder everything else was still closed, then I went to pump pedal to bleed rears and fluid is still just pumping out of the open front bleeder, which makes me think the bypass is not activating? I will try that tomorrow, so you just slowly pumped and released the pedal while it was already installed and truck off?
  11. Well, I am at a loss here. Installed the new m/c and booster today. Bench bled the master, installed everything then bled the entire system just like before, accounting for the prop valve and everything and STILL the pedal falls straight to the f-in floor when I turn the truck on. The booster is working and there is good vacuum to it. Something I did notice is that when I push the pedal all the way to the floor the motor almost wants to stall out like there is some sort of weird vacuum issue going on. Also, maybe the old heads can give me some advice here, when I go to activat
  12. So just an update for anyone following. I vacuum bled the entire system today, then re-bled it again using standard procedure (no vacuum). Definitely no air in the system, the pedal builds pressure and stays steady when the truck is off and the brakes are holding, as in I can't move the rotors/drums when the pedal is pressed in while the truck is off. Then when I start it, pedal goes straight to the floor. Fairly certain there is some sort of failure in the booster chambers somewhere. Will hopefully have some better news on Saturday after I replace the MC/booster.
  13. Well the new stuff should be here by the weekend so I will let everyone know the outcome. After the new mc and booster that should be all the parts of the system except new distro blocks and height valve so hopefully this is it. Thanks for everyones input so far!
  14. Yea mine is pretty rusty like fluid has been dripping down the front of it for a while, makes me think the master is leaking out of the seal where the rod goes into it. From my understanding you need to leave the front bleeder open to simulate a front brake failure so the bypass valve will activate, otherwise you won't be able to fully bleed the entire system. I ordered a new master and booster anyway since it's likely they are still originals. Going to put all four on jack stands tomorrow and then try bleeding one more time tomorrow just for kicks and see what happ
  15. Calipers are installed correctly with bleeders on top. Two person bleed every time used clear tubing into bottle with a some fluid already in it. When bleeding individual wheel it was pump and hold, open bleeder until i see solid fluid coming into tube then close bleeder. Repeat process for each wheel at least 3 times. Then check fluid in master cylinder. This is process i used... Bleed entire system normally, pass rear > drivers rear > pass front > drivers front Opened pass front bleeder, press pedal to floor and release Bleed pass rear
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