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Yes, please repop the actual flaps!!! I have a lot of info on them if you need detailed drawings. Great to have the hardware though too. i don’t need them yet, but save me a set for tomahawk

That turned out awesome!

Not likely. The MJ will be over here next year also once I get a place setup for it over here. will be back early 2024 to finish it up hopefully by spring. Plan on staying here indefinitely though, just trying to pickup the pieces after this nasty typhoon. Really hoping power comes back one of these days. Two weeks with no power is rough when it’s hot and humid.

As it currently sits. Started with some new 30x9.5 (original Sahara size) and some 316 replacement hardware to take care of a few rusty bolts.

Now you just need to make one that’s U shaped for all those beat up gates out there

I’d like it to happen soon but just went through a huge move followed by a massive typhoon. Haven’t had power, water, or cell service for days. Food, water and fuel are top priorities atm. I’m running a battery backup to turn on my modem every 8 hours or so. But when things return back to normal this project will be back up and running.

Since @boxyjeep is making the speaker brackets, these would be very easy to reproduce. Make it from 18g stainless or galvanized. Only has a couple of simple bends.

Indeed I do but they are all packed away atm. There are some aftermarket ones that will fit (albeit not as good as oem). Search Amazon for a “74 bulb socket” unless you need oem

Picking up a JDM TJ Sahara tomorrow. Pretty neat find. 56k original miles and an absolutely pristine interior and undercarriage. Hardtop with a D44. Will post up more info later.

Holy thread resurrection! The 4Runner rears are close in width but many have the 6 lug patter depending on year. I might suggest just browsing your local junk yards and see what they have. Look under some of the foreign SUV’s in the 90’s. Many used some pretty tough axles (Isuzu trooper comes to mind). Several also had drop out 3rd members if that’s what you’re looking for.

MYUS is the one I use for smaller parts. They are in Florida so no state sales tax.

Use a shipping forwarder. They are all over the states and can ship to you lo problem.

Thanks! It’s all covered and stored away for now. 2024 will be the year of the Tomahawk Edit: correction, 2025 will be the year

Found the bag it came in:

Those were an Amazon find. I think I have an extra down in the shop I can snap a picture of the package for you

I will say, I tried running the motor directly from the battery with 12awg and it was no where near as quick as 18v. I would never run a motor that ran continuously (like the ac blower motor) on higher voltage but for window motors, nothing that I’ve tried comes close to the speed. In a perfect setup, I’d use both relays and the step up converter.

You could be shortening the life of the motor by perhaps 25-35%. But since it only runs occasionally, it really shouldn’t be an issue. Just make sure you aren’t binding on anything. I powered mine with a 18v battery while testing them all after install. Worked perfectly and the speed is better than most new cars.

If you’re sticking with 31” or smaller tires, stick with stock brakes and maybe some black magic pads. Some good centric rotors as well. You have the later style knuckles on that axle (90+ style with the brake pad “wings” and floating calipers). I’d recommend going with say a 97 for all your parts. Get new skf or timken unit bearings (had better results with SKF for some reason lately) and Centric calipers for the same year. If you want to go with an off the shelf brake pad, I’d recommend centric posi-quiets and follow the break in procedure to the T. Can’t overstate how critical that is. On another note, you’ve got quite a bit of rust there . I’d get under there with a chip brush and some POR15 or similar.

I’d start at the window track as well. There is no window relay system in the MJ so making sure you have good clean contacts is extra important. @Minuit had some insight into this as well iirc.

Well, project is going on hold again. Will be several months before picking this back up again. Probably next year around this time or maybe a bit later.

Yes they are. I didn’t see any standings on them though

Just got finished up with this modified cross member as well. Had to do a lot of cutting and welding to get this to a nice clean custom piece that fits the new tcase like a glove.

Thought I’d post up some info on these custom tailight housing @Dzimm made for me. They incorporate the newer sealed o ring style 1156 and 1157 sockets which are a lot easier to work with and seal much better than the stock ones. Also running an ARB air coupler outlet to the front bumper to inflate tires as needed.

Driveshaft lengths are off by about 2-2.5”. Had to also notch the crossmember and re-weld it shut as the np242 has a larger case