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Are you referring to the connections in the power distribution center by the radiator overflow bottle? If so, most of those are a roll over style crimper. I bought a ratcheting crimper with interchangeable dies but they are pricey. If it’s just a small job, the Painless 70900 crimper works well enough. There are other members here though that can probably suggest better options. Can you post of picture of the connector you’re trying to crimp to verify the type needed?

If the test above checks out, try checking the bulb sockets, and use new bulbs even if they look good.

If the 96 D30 is from an XJ it will fit. Just keep in mind that your front driveshaft will now be spinning constantly due to the lack of an axle disconnect. That’s typically not an issue but may reveal an unbalanced front driveshaft and or a bad transfer case front output bearing.

First off, it’s CR Laurence . I have two of the sms headliners. The first one was in an original rear slider and latter a CR Laurence dual pane slider. The new one is also on a dual pane CR Laurence. The fit is great. First headliner was from 2017 and the second was just this last year. I can’t see any reason to adjust the headliner as it fits factory and aftermarket windows just fine imo.

This may be helpful in determining how to upgrade your brakes:

Checkout the epic threads. Many V8s stuck in there. Hood clearance is a challenge with tbi or carb.

Guys, cry once and get that seals-it seal. No special tools and a far better seal.

, “island hacks”. Whatever works

Diesel also works great

No need to trim that sealant. It fits inside the tube itself though it’s not a great fit as that surface was never machined to fit a seal. If you have a few more days to take another approach, get a seals-it inner axle tube seal. Far easier to install and much less likely to leak. These, just find the right size od and id: https://sealsit.com/product/economy-axle-seal/

A long soak in diesel worked really well for the ones in my truck

Not the latest versions, they are out of stock. Good info here on some options though:

There was an aftermarket version of these available until maybe a couple of years ago. It was just some stock rubber material with that bend and some double sided adhesive tape. Worked well enough. Surely someone can find a similar piece of rubber stock

I’ll throw in my .02. On my first MJ I went with the JCR Vanguard. Nice bumper, well made but the design doesn’t fit the truck. I’m also not a fan of a winch sticking out on an MJ. After seeing a lot of the factory options, hidden winches and Mopar brush guards, I settled in the first gen warrior with shackle mounts. To me, it most resembles a slightly more modern but still factory option. The arb looks nice as well. It’s a thinner bumper than the warrior though and is more engineered to provide crash protection than off road protection. With the gen 1 warrior, there is no need to trim fenders or flares, and a set of stock Marchal fogs fits almost perfectly in a factory style position. I have that bumper still wrapped up sitting in my shop ready for my current build. I’m running the boostwerks hidden winch setup also and what a clean combo indeed. Both the warrior and arb are pricey bumpers. PS. The Hansen rear bumper is almost a perfect match to the front. But you have to call them to order as they don’t list the Comanche rear bumper on their sites

My project “Tomahawk” is siting in Pea Ridge right now . Though I live about 9000 miles away. I’ll be back early part of next year for a few weeks and plan to get a game plan to finish it up. Lived many years in Bella Vista and Rogers too.

Well, it’s always a gamble with used but I’d say the odds are in your favor vs aftermarket.

Use a plastic safe electronics cleaner

Go oem Mopar New or used. Much better than the aftermarket ones. Here’s a used one and it comes with the connector https://www.ebay.com/itm/196001898981?hash=item2da29fa1e5:g:EAwAAOSw-ZFlFDao&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4CH6huA0t1Dnlo7wIHfzMwW9dEs6HzT2YJt6M3OJ3jD2i%2FsfNUj4AB7ywbR5JNnG08Owgls8YiYOOt5xpgjgJqy6789MqXX2X9SYeBp3jdI9%2BndaCRcPeMLQjYnJiF%2B58qGUZGzNMdj6LvATA1kuPA%2FZ4jOLag4fzM1eGNUBZsDIiaO6fBH8cS%2FcbeF1utnPBL0Bx6xsUwzgOkd6n5Xs%2FVT%2FaPBTLfDL5ySqrv7XnLVuH0tKISWMcy3qf9lU1arszcrsi7diErYvzHL%2FjiJYdSGjgaJbwFhfwb%2FPzS6twL%2BJ|tkp%3ABFBM-pGzjeFi

Try to find an oem Mopar fan. Moves a lot more air than the aftermarket replacements. The stock wiring should work if it’s all in good shape but it was always marginal at best. You need a solid 30amps for the fan to run at full rpm and therefore get the full cfm needed. Many will swap on all e fans and wire them up using a relay to the battery. But many fans’ CFM are rated at alternator voltage which will typically be around 13.8-14v.

I was just thinking about the linkage but good point. The ZJ box could be an upgrade depending on what you’re looking to accomplish

Considering that my local auto glass shop in the middle of the pacific has them in stock, I’d say there are plenty still out there. Maybe have to cast a wider net though. Have you tried auto body/collision shops? But as a general rule, there aren’t many shops who sell just the glass online.

Grab the spicer/dana ball joints and the moog ZJ tie rod. The rest or the components such as drag link and tie rod ends just use moog replacement MJ/XJ parts. The ZJ tie rod is where the strength comes from. Ball joints are the same but best to grab the spicer ones.

I ran nexen roadians in that size on a stock 4wd with zero rub. In addition to sidewall “lugs” and patterns, there may also be slight variations in where everyone’s steering stops are set on the knuckle

I should probably qualify my experience with plastic paints and dyes (including sem), I have done all version of the above prep work with my interior plastic pieces. It helps for sure, and yes, it will hold the color if you don’t actually put any wear on the item. But I’m talking about being able to actually scuff a panel with the abrasive tread of a shoe and not peel off the color layer revealing the base material color. No product other than the Eastwood stuff has accomplished that and even that stuff has its limits. It’s the closest thing I’ve seen to actually altering the material color itself though while still being a spray-on coating. Kind of like the difference between acid-staining concrete or using some kind of floor paint, one penetrates the substrate and the other just adheres to the surface. Proper prep will make any product work the best it can. Try to follow the manufacturers TDS if they wrote one. Again, I’m referring to wear-resistance and not how well a product color matches a factory trim color or how long it adheres to a panel.

The ZJ tie rod is solid bar vs the hollow ones in MJ/XJ/TJ’s