ghetdjc320

I ran the mishimoto radiator with that clutch and it cleared just fine. That was on stock Mopar engine mounts

Good to know on the urethane . The “ultra black” rtv held up remarkably well for me in sunlight (used for my cargo lamp seal) and I would suspect that the bond line in the tail light housings shouldn’t be exposed to much UV. I plan to add some ceramic coating to these lenses as well every couple of years to prevent UV deterioration. Sounds like lexel might be a good off the shelf option.

That should work great! I’ll order up a pair of those then after I take one last look on fleabay for a set of limited black door panels. Here are some more pics and dimensions for reference:

Obviously the door panel opening is smaller on the non-accusound XJs. Just wondering how they would fit. My current plan was just to make a little grill using some thin birch and speaker grill cloth. I had been on the lookout for a long time for some nice black limited door panels but never found anything. I’m also dealing with speaker depth issues due to the full size window. I have about 1 7/8 of useable top mount depth if I go woth 5.25 speakers in the stock location. I was planning on also making a simple spacer ring and bring the speakers out another 3/16” or so. My goal is to have a good sealed barrier between the front and back of the speaker. I’ll use a piece of eggcrate style foam behind the speaker mounted to the inside of the outer door shell to reduce back waves. Probably use about a 12x12 piece just as a dampener in addition to plenty of Dynamat to keep the panels from vibrating as much. I also have some 1/8 minicell foam I plan to use instead of (or in addition to) the water shield to give a good seal between the door panel and door shell.

I’ve seen some NOS recently. Was wondering though, are they the same width as the factory “louvered” styler grills? Just want to make sure they would fully cover the original opening. Here is the opening size:

I would think something like “the right stuff” or “mega black” rtv should stick very well. “Ultra black” is what seadoo uses to seal most of their through hull fittings. 3m 5200 or 4200 would also be a great option. The 5209 isn’t UV stable but it’s shouldn’t ever be in direct sunlight if installed correctly. Sika’s website lists “Sika Sil” as their recommended headlight adhesive. Windshield urethane would also no doubt do the job if the surfaces were properly prepped. My personal inclination is to use Lexel. Available in most any hardware store. UV stable, semi flexible with a pretty strong bond. Plus it’s crystal clear. There are probably many adhesives that would do the trick. The Sika Sil is a silicone base adhesive sealant from what I can gather. There are a lot of options for alternative silicone based adhesive caulks. A urethane based adhesive would probably have an even greater bond but I can’t see a tailight needing something like that. Plus, it would likely be a permanent bond so a future lens swap may no longer be an option

@SoCalJeepComanche Not sure if he has it or not but I’m sure he could get the decal printed

It’s all in the valving. There are great riding twin tube shocks and horrible riding mono tube reservoir shocks and everything in between.

It might be good to see how high your lift currently sits. There is a thread about this in the diy section.

There is also a higher flow mech fan. I just so happen to have one if you are looking for one. Can’t remember the blade count but I have it sitting out in my shop

I do wonder who’s trying to ripoff the vendors here. I know @Minuit with radios, myself with hvac panels and now the OP with vin labels. Seems like someone is trolling the forums looking to make a few bucks

Yeah I agree. These are the contura x switches. The bottom light is independent and comes on with the dash lights and the top symbol illuminates when the switch is on. It’s all incandescent lighting also so it should match nicely. The connectors and pin terminals will ensure an OE level install.

Do you happen to have a link to that write up?

Awesome! Don’t forget to add the vin the the registry here

I have all the templates for them but I just haven’t had the time to make any. I’m on the home stretch of my MJ build plus work plus been sick plus getting ready to ship back oversees one a few months. But I am planning on making up a supply of these but don’t have an eta yet. I’m going to finish off all the templates I have and list them for sale. Should also have a small batch of NOS switches available as well and a handful of restored hvac panels. Hopefully someone will have the fog light bezel but I don’t believe there is a single person who has come across an oem sport bar/auto tranny switch. They should exist in theory though, I just don’t believe anyone has ever seen an original one.

Good list of parts there. I also ran MC control arms and dual rate springs and they were great. The correctlink is a great design as well and should allow for full articulation without binding. Have you given thought to accutune shocks? They have some off the shelf part numbers but they will custom tune shocks for you that really can’t be beat. The offer King, Fox and Bilstein. I’ve run bilstein several times too and they are also quite stiff with stock valving. Custom valving is where it’s at, especially the rebound valving.

True. Unfortunately, if the fit and finish are off, they will loose sales and aftermarket support will dry up. Hopefully they will refine the product further before finalizing.

Is it just me or do they need to work on that upper contour to fit the bed a bit better?? Seems like the light is sucked into the bed a bit. Otherwise looks awesome!

A true LS1 is a 5.7 aluminum block engine. Many an engine are called “LS” but most are not true “LS” part numbers. I know this is not relevant to your build so apologies but I’ve seen many people here on forums recently throw around the idea of a cheap LS1/3/6 swap. I can tell you my late LS1 cost more than most think an entire swap costs. Ok done with the rant

Curious what your lift plans are for the MJ

Man that really looked to me like a piece of rubber trim that’s been added.

Fun, something else I need now…

Is the gate itself actually different between the 231 and 242?

If you’re referring to the black strip there, that looks like a separate trim piece to me. The flare finish itself looks fine to me. Is that black line a separate trim piece or just a painted strip?