ghetdjc320

Was wanting to upgrade the thrust bearing for first and the rear bearing plate. Haven’t disassembled one before. The unit I have has 90k miles on it and was shifting great but can’t say how long it will last behind the LS engine.

If you want to add a variable intermittent function, you need to send a "pulse" to the wiper motor low circuit. The motors' internal circuitry will then complete the rotation and land on park again. That pulse is on a variable resistance timer. Unless you're looking to just press a button and the wipers move once? If that's the case, the mist function works for that. The intermittent wiper switch in the column along with the accompanying lever and the intermittent module are required unless you want to design your own wiper delay module??? That's a ton of work Unless you're planning to splice in a pre-assembled wiper delay module to just send the pulse to the low side?? The factory version swap is very easy and quite cheap.

Looks like all 3 versions have model numbers on the box.

I have plenty of leftover oem gasket material if you’d like some.

Negative, all black. Was trying to find an all black nos one to match my electric window/lock bezels. I’ve eliminated most interior chrome but have a nice set of chrome door handles along with chrome 10 slot grill and tailgate handle to keep some chrome accents throughout.

NOS Turn signal/cruise/intermittent wiper lever.

Not sure which one you got there. However, if your going to return it, get the plate and fin design vs the tube and fin. Four seasons makes a nice plate and fin that fits with slight mods. Done a couple now that way and it works great

Haven’t seen an MJ with a bbc but you may find someone in the XJ forums who has

That link generalizes a lot of info and is missing a lot too. Here are a couple examples: The D30HP is an inherently superior design for a front axle and the better use of the gear set makes it stronger than the LP D30 (all non rubicon TJ’s and 99.5+ XJs). It’s also missing info on the JK D30’s which were also a stronger design. 2007 JK’s also had a D35 option and the modern D35 is the standard axle in JL and JT platforms. The D44 HD gearset was introduced long before the JK made the gearset popular or well known

I like the decked system that @Limeyjeeper installed. That's a really nice option

Around 61”. 63” width fits really nice in the back of an MJ with stock is similar backspacing

Agreed. DO we happen to know who the OEM was? Or was it made in-house at AMC/Jeep?

I think that's T&M that makes those inner frame plates. I have a set on my MJ and it would be very close to reaching the end of the damaged area. Here are the different metal pieces you could use to repair and reinforce. Keep in mind you will still need to find a good competent welder who can also cut out and repair some of the damaged metal underneath. You'll also need a replacement inner fender. I relaced mine and the pics are somewhere in my build thread if you want to reference them. https://www.t-mfab.com/store-3/?model_number=4761900 https://www.t-mfab.com/store-3/?model_number=2230916 https://www.t-mfab.com/store-3/?model_number=mjfus

I wheeled many years on D35’s 8.8’s and D44’s. Did a lot of axle building along the way also including several 8.8 builds. I also documented a lot of info on HD44’s. It took a while, but personally, I started to see where there was an advantage to less unsprung weight, keeping things at lower lift and running smaller tires. Taught me a lot more driving skill and taking my time to pick the right lines. I understand that’s not for everybody though I just wanted to share how one can run what they have and spend more time wheeling than wrenching. The D35 is often overlooked and the 8.8 is often over-stated. There are specific weakpoints on a D35 that can be simply and easily modified in just a few hours to run a respectable tire size and stand up to decent wheeling. It is a viable option and it does have its advantages. BTW, the HD44 as found in 98+ imports and JKs has the same ground clearance as the standard 44, no c clips, 8.9” ring gear, D60 pinion and fairly larger brakes. They are also wider, thicker wall tubes than the 8.8 and are actually decently plug welded by factory. Bolt pattern will be different but hey, if we’re going new tires, why not new wheels?? No matter what we swap under our trucks it’s going to cost. The KJ8.25 is a nice candidate also but will require plenty of sweat equity.

Same old stories on repeat . I’m getting too old for this .

I’ve always shipped using a freight forwarder in the US. Just buy whatever you’re needing and have it shipped to your freight forwarders address then they send it to you. From what I’ve seen here though, Rustys has some very mixed reviews to say the least.

Modern “Street Comanche” clone using the new OGR body kit? That would be cool! Otherwise, a clean restoration would be nice too

Has anyone here down an ax15 tear down? How far into it do you have to go to get to the thrust bearing? Wanting to upgrade mine due to the extra torque and HP with the Marlin Crawler upgrade bearing

I also had some passenger side inner fender damage and got a cutout from an XJ and grafted it on. The damage in yours is all in front of the motor mounts and is most certainly salvageable albeit a lot of work. Whoever repairs it can sleeve the uniframe rail and weld in a new piece

Yep that’s right. These are identical to oem so you’re just replacing a damaged part with another original part. Should be a non issue

I also deal with similar issues as I’ll be bringing my latest build back overseas with me. The quality of these is great and should have no problems as you will just be restoring what should have been there. As for US regulations, our trucks no longer fall under epa regulations for import but you could possibly request an MSO from a Jeep dealership. They just pull the vin, confirm it was built in the US and issue a letter. That’s a nice form to have.

Yep, also had him delete the emissions schematic, change the plug gaps and emission tuning info.

Custom labels in for this project. Can you spot the differences? Thanks to @SoCalJeepComanche for making these and spending the time to customize them for the build.

No need to cryo treat gears or invest more than you would in any other axle especially once you figure the cost of most junkyard swaps which require: new brakes, new bearings, possibly regearing, new perches and shock tabs, plus the initial cost of the axle. There is a use case scenario for a D35 in an MJ if the lift and tires will be mild. An 8.8 doesn’t last long on tires above 35” so it’s hard to see where an 8.8 fits into the mix on an MJ. It’s a heavy axle and somewhat clumsy axle for an off-road vehicle. Smallish disk brakes, an excessively large pumpkin for the size of the axle, too narrow for an MJ (even the stock 35 and 44 could have been a bit wider), and .188 wall tubes (that need to be welded better to the pumpkin). The 8.8 has its uses as a swap axle but it’s better off in narrower Jeeps if you can get the axle cheap enough. Yes there is a 4.10 LSD option but because of the notoriety of the swap, those ratios are much harder to find for a decent price. Junkyard axle swaps are like engine swaps. They cost a lot more than just the initial purchase to do it right.

I’d try to find an oem copper core if you can.