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OldSch88L

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About OldSch88L

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    Comanche Fan

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    Male
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    Mont-Tremblant, Québec, Canada

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  1. Went back to the yard today, and looks like I was mistaken... That other radio from the XJ Wagoneer was an RX-161, and the eject mechanism was seized. So, if you ever figure out that pulsation with the RX-135, let me know and I will probably send mine for a once-over and AUX convertion
  2. Couple of updates: I tried the XJW chime and it works, although it sounds so weak I can barely hear it. Any ideas? Secondly, I went back to the yard; to those who wondered why I didn't take the tail lights or rear bumper, I got some pics to show why The only good chrome left was the armrest trims, otherwise the inside and outsidle door handles had peeling chrome. I also managed to remove the bed topper by myself to find the elusive cargo light!!! But sadly, not the switch as the cluster,cluster trim and switchwork were gone from the start. I also took the front metal license frame per your re
  3. Well that's the thing, the knob clicks, and the sound is off, but the display is still on showing the radio station, and if I put a cassette in, I can hear the cassette deck run even though I have no sound... I saw your build thread where you put a youtube video of that model radio in your truck, and the display did turn off with the volume knob "click". Second thing, when I went at the junkyard, there was a second one of these RX-135 from an XJ Wagoneer, but a dumba$$ took it out the truck, then took the radio's top cover off then left it on the rad support with the hood up, and clearly got r
  4. Hello Minuit, sorry to bother you with one of my questions again! I recently went junkyard shopping and stumbled upon an RX-135. I thought it looked cool and retro and liked the fact that it was a cassette deck so I bought it. Just got done installing it, and the sound is awesome on the cassette mode, but I have trouble with the radio mode. When I first tried it, it worked great for like 30 seconds, but since that, it pulses between static noise and and music, and the display also pulses a little bit. It's actually freaky because it really sounds like a heartbeat; I thought I was dealing with
  5. They weren't in the greatest shape, and the screws were rusted, seized and stripped. I thought about drilling the screw heads off but I would probably have damaged the tail lights even more
  6. You guys are pretty much answering all my questions before I ask them haha! I was trying to figure out where that red wire plugged into,as I though it was just a regular blue module when I yanked it out of the wagoneer and only saw after that it had a wire hanging from it! Hope mine works, it looks a bit crusty inside...
  7. OldSch88L

    1JTHW6691GT185323

    At the Kenny-U-Pull yard in Sainte-Sophie, Québec, Canada as of october 11th, 2020.
  8. I couldn't get the window because of the bed topper, and I was by myself. The rear bumper was rotten and all twisted up, of course, like every other MJ I saw in junkyards. It's a shame because it was a factory chrome one. For the running boards I had no idea, I thought they were aftermarket! I might go back ans snatch them, but I don't remember exactly what shape they were in.
  9. Some of you may know that over here in Quebec, Canada, Comanches and other vehicles from its era are few and far between because of rust. They're rare on the road and even more in the junkyards, so when I saw a Comanche, an XJ Wagoneer and a '96 XJ, I knew I had to go PRONTO, especially since the Comanche came in friday I think. I was like the 2nd person to get to it (which never happens usually), since it was already missing the cluster, but it was otherwise complete. Pretty sad cause this thing was in perfectly restorable condition and the interior was pristine, no smells, no cracks in the d
  10. Really? I'll give it a shot since I've got both on hand! However, PB has been very good to me until now unlike WD40...
  11. Good idea about drilling holes to stop the cracks. Also, something I've been thought in my auto body classes is that when welding something thicker like a frame, you should bevel your edges. Or in your case, try taking a thin cutting disk and bevel the crack. You then fill the bevel when welding, it might take 2 or 3 passes depending on the size of your bevel. You'll get better heat penetration and your repair will be spread over a slightly bigger surface. If the P.O. only welded on top of the crack, it's possible that it wasn't hot enough to melt the metal completly through and weld properly,
  12. Also, simple but important tip I've learned the hard way. Don't wait until you're screwed before using PB Blaster and/or heat. Save yourself the headache and soak it in PB Blaster before attempting anything, and when ready to take it appart, heat up the nut before wrenching on it. I've been so many times in a world of hurt that as soon as I see a bolt/nut that looks remotely rusty, I do this now and save a lot of time. Especially on my Jeep, which I'm considering naming Murphy, because like Murphy's Law, everything that can go wrong, will go wrong
  13. Will defenitely follow his thread since I want the same thing eventually. Just to be clear, other than adding a fairlead, these hidden winch mounts should let you keep the stock bumper, right?
  14. Well I have a Dana 44 rear, but was able to buy "thick" gears, while in the D30 front I had to buy a new carrier because there was only standard thickness available. Note that both my axles came from a 6-cylinder truck with 3.07s, so 4.56s were past the carrier break on both axles. So, with a D35 with 4.10s, I don't know right off the bat if 4.88s will fit, nor do I know the carrier break for its 4.10 carrier. BTW, carrier break is the maximum gearset ratio you can put in before needing a different carrier. As the gear ratio numbers increase, the ring gear gets bigger, but the pinion gets smal
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