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OldSch88L

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    Mont-Tremblant, Qu├ębec, Canada

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Comanche Aficionado

Comanche Aficionado (4/10)

  1. To make it short, both gauges have the same contacts on the PCBs. It's just that the Renix and 1996 are printed differently. The 3 center screws line up, but the brass tabs on the renix gauge don't, and make the gauge stand out too much since the 1996 cluster case is shallower. So, the tabs also being contacts, I cut them and soldered wires and routed them to their respective places. If it works, I'll take the cluster back out to show pics of the final setup.
  2. The 1996 fuel gauge reads backwards in my 1988 Renix Jeep. I wanted to keep the electronic speedo so I modified and grafted the 1988 fuel gauge in the 1996 cluster. I'll test it in a feel days to see if it works.
  3. I'm currently swapping a really nice 1988 dash that I found on marketplace to replace my old cracked one. It also came with a full cluster. However, I previously swapped and made the proper mods for a 1996 full cluster with electronic speedo. The downfall was a reverse-reading gas gauge. I didn't want to deal with finding a 1991 MJ fuel sender, so I took the gauge from the Renix full cluster and did some slight mods, then installed it in the 1996 cluster. I tought some of you might want to see the differences between the two; they share the same gauge, but way different PCBs. So I guess there's more than just different senders. However, the Renix one being so simple, I'm sure one could take a 1996 cluster and convert the gas gauge to Renix duty...
  4. Here are the be all, end all videos about 5X7 lighting. These guys seem to know their stuff and do thorough testing: https://youtu.be/xWT5h-WWHTU https://youtu.be/6ifsEY7KbBg https://youtu.be/zwQs7uyGFvs https://youtu.be/vCNj9hvPSfY https://youtu.be/W1JtVou4pSY
  5. I'm in the process of doing this. I've got a GM (Delphi) sensor and pigtail on order due for next week. I'll get back with details when it's done.
  6. I was thinking about it, but wondered if it was worth it since I get no reading from it... Wouldn't a dirty sensor at least have a little resistance? Mine actus like an open circuit...
  7. So I didn't waste any time and put my new REM to work and found out the IAT sensor is pretty much dead. The REM constantly reads 246F, and my multimeter can't even get a resistance reading out of the sensor. I've read elsewhere that there's a GM sensor that's pretty close in terms of specs and ohms. Anybody ever tried it?
  8. Time for some updates. Got some progress on the roll bar restoration. Parts are held in with sheetmetal screws and will be ready for welding. My original dash started cracking a year ago, so I was actively looking for one. Stumbled on an unassuming ad on marketplace for an XJ dash with no price and 2 bad photos. Chatted with the guy, and long story short, he's a total Jeep nerd, and the dash was pristine and came with a Renix full cluster, unmolested dash harness with as-new fuse panel, and sentinel module. Even better, turns out the guy also had a R.E.M. II+ for sale that he forgot to mention! I tried to buy a new one a few weeks ago but Nick said he was out of stock and waiting on the chips for the next batch, and couldn't give me an E.T.A. So, to find a used one is a Godsend! All those goodies for 250$CAD (197$USD)!!! So, I'm already solving engine gremlins thanks to the REM, and getting ready for the dash and harness swap. More pics to come!
  9. Most of my favourites have been said, but I also like Ronin for the somewhat honest looking car chase, I also kinda like the Initial D movie even if it's cheesy, and finally, the funny french movie trilogy, Taxi, Taxi 2 and Taxi 3 if you can find 'em with subtitles. I've seen them on Netflix once, but they haven't been back for a while now...
  10. Thanks a lot! It's slowly getting there! I painted the wheels and grille so that they complement the charcoal and silver Pioneer stripes I'll put back on when it gets repainted in a couple of years; can't wait!!!
  11. It's at about 3/4of the way forward right now.
  12. Well, I got it figured out, and the truck runs real nice, but someone, somewhere, made a mistake. The second hole on the camshaft is a smaller and tapered hole, and the dowel doesn't fit, which means it was where it should be. However, when the cam and crank gears line up their respective dots, the #1 piston is at TDC on the exhaust stroke, and not compression like everyone, including the Haynes manual, want you to beleive. The distributor lines up at cyl #4, and the exhaust lobe on #1 points straight up. I tried the distributor pointed a cyl #1 with the dots lined up and it wouldn't start, but pointed at #4 it runs perfect.
  13. You can see the two holes in this video from Nickintimefilms at 13:38
  14. Yes, and that's what I did. But, there is two holes on the cam to put the dowel pin in, which dictates the position of the cam gear. I'm wondering if the pin is in the wrong hole, I.E. 180 degrees off.
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