ghetdjc320

The pillar foam has much better adhesion to sheet metal and especially if there is paint on the surface. Plus being a 2 part system it should last a lot longer without deteriorating. It’s able to maintain its “springiness” without fatiguing. Yep the T&M braces go right over the factory sheet metal. Used weld through primer on the back sides of any pieces that would be welded together though for corrosion resistance. Then I welded them on, epoxy primed them, then used some medium bodied 2 part seal sealer to seal the welds. They are a nice reinforcement to that otherwise flimsy area. My last MJ was starting to develop cracks around the door latch striker.

Nice idea! I’m going to copy this for my flares when the time comes

Agreed. It adds a nice look to the front without throwing off the classic look from the side.

That’s a clean look imo

What we really need you to reproduce is splash guards with both the AMC and Jeep logos. They've got to be stupid simple to remake but I'd bet they sell out right quick

@Pete M Do you happen to have that picture of the 97+ front clip with the old style fenders? I seem to recall you had posted it but I can't find that thread. It's the one where the corners of the grill have been sanded and matched to the fenders. I'm contemplating going that route as I could still keep the stock style flares front and rear. I always liked the look of that grill more anyways. I think that will complete the best of both worlds look: full size door glass, Early XJ limited style all black interior, pre 97 mirrors, 97 grill 96- fenders and flares and my first get warrior bumper with grill guard. It does leave me wondering about my full set of new turbines though...

Not those relays. They are strapped to the harness. It’s nothing odd though, many oem harnesses do that. There wasn’t really any relay center inside the cab.

No. The previous owner/s made a mess of things. Most of those items mount to the harness itself normally with zip ties and tape. What starts to happen is some component fails and instead of tracking down the simple problem (like a connector not making good contact), someone will just determine they have bad wiring and run a jumper to bypass an issue. not the way to go. For some of those added components, someone needs to study relays for a few minutes along with the Jeep’s stock power distribution.

Lol, looks like someone took an axe to that clutch pedal. I Can tell you that those yellow and red wires in the front of the fuse box with spade terminals are not factory. Could be someone was searching for an ignition switched 12v source for some accessory. That number 5 item is the aw4 transmission ecu.

Iirc the MJ takes 3 of these right? They are basically under each seat near the rear. 4 total holes and 1 is the wiring pass through. Or are there more?? These things are pricey!

@OffGridResearch can you provide a pic of the orange lights?

This is awesome!

It’s funny, all of the vendors on here (myself included) love making parts for these trucks but it’s tough getting consistent order volume. And since this isn’t our full time jobs, it’s tough to keep these custom parts going long-term. I’m stoked to get my custom labels! Will post up in my build thread when I get them. No company would have taken the time to customize the labels to the degree that @SoCalJeepComanche did.

A new rubber grommet is good but I’d also add some black rtv sealant. I used some 3m 5200 sealant on mine. Also, be sure to add a “drip loop” to the antenna wire before it enters the grommet. Never had a leak after that from the antenna

Did they pull the bearing cap to inspect the crank? Just wondering how they came to that conclusion and what data they provided to back up their assumption?

We should copy this info to the modifications and repairs section for more views. That’s awesome!

Sure thing. Though I may have the wait until I finish my build. I have tons of pictures and can go back through and document the details.

The link from @Limeyjeeper are the ones I have. Genuine Mopar and they are by far a better quality than the aftermarket ones. Team cherokee used to have new oem ones but now they are selling the skf check straps. Not horrible but definitely sub par. The Mopar ones operate smoother and seem to last longer.

You can use POR15 on the back of the door card itself. Work wonderfully as it gets absorbed into the board and really seals it up. Instead of plastic, you can also use 1/8” dynaliner or minicel foam.

This is true. I can install a 5.25 speaker with up to 2.25” depth. If i go 6.5 and mount it through the door panel i can fit a 2.75” deep speaker. It’s a tough call as i try to not compromise sound quality over interior aesthetics. Either way though, the shrouded stock speaker grill has to go. There is a wide variety of quality obviously when it comes to speakers but ultimately, a 6.5 is going to have a wider range than most 5.25’s. Tough call.

Pretty much all JK 44s as long as they had the 8.9” ring gear. The JK 44 all had the 8.9” ring gear as far as I know. The only real differences are in the carriers and axle shaft spline counts with the rubicon axles.

While neck deep in electrical work, I’m staring to design the audio system as well. The stock speaker grills in the door heavily shroud the woofer and interfere with imaging tk a great degree. I don’t like the idea of an aftermarket speaker grill directly on the door panel but this much shrouding is just not going to work. I was planning to replace the lower carpeted portion of the door panel so the opportunity to have a clean fitting grill will be there. Plus I never really liked the carpet “pocket” on these door panels. I’ll delet that and add one of the later style plastic door pockets. I wonder the size of the Jensen accusound grills that came on the loaded XJs

I wonder if that was the equivalent of an ASD circuit? If it’s not needed for anything I’ll just skip it. Awesome info on the tach. Thanks for your help

That’s good to know! It would be great if the ecu tach output could run straight to the Jeep tach. I need to double check the wiring on the oil pressure gauge and confirm it doesn’t need to go to the LS ecu.