This is the vacuum switch for the cruise control, there is two styles of them. @eaglescout526 has the earlier style and the one in the photo right above is the later style. The later style can be also found in 80's Gm cars truck etc with cruise control. Both go in front of the brake pedal and the later style plugs into a wiring pigtail that is already there. The bracket mounts to the pedal assembly with one self tapping bolt.
Next is the brake pedal switch. This is the same switch but has two additional pins for the cruise control harness to plug into. The two additional pins help to disconnect the electrical part of the cruise control when pressing on the brake.
Clutch disconnect switch. This only needed in manual not autos. This disconnects the cruise control when stepping on the clutch. Mounts to the pedal assembly with a bracket and a self tapping bolt. To connect the switch to the harness plug the pigtail with two blue wires with white stripes. The cruise control wiring harness is the same between manual and autos except for a small piece of metal in the pigtail for autos to bypass this switch. simply remove it for install a clutch switch.
The bigger vacuum line on the right is wrap into the wiring harness. This line runs from the servo to the vacuum switch in front of the brake pedal.
The small one on the left runs to the vacuum canister up front located behind the front bummer. Problem one is the vacuum canister there is used for the heater core valve and has only two ports. Here are three possible solutions to have vacuum for the cruise control.
1. Delete the heater value and swap the cruise control in its place on the vacuum canister.
2. Find another baseball shape canister and run a vacuum line with a t connector to share the vacuum between the two vacuum canisters.
3. Be lucky and find a football shape vacuum canister that does the same thing as option 2 but uses one canister.
I went with option 3 for my install but all three options should work the same. I ran a t connector from the vacuum supply line to create two lines to go to both ends of the canister. Swap the football cansiter in place of the baseball shape one. One end connect the cruise control line and the other end connect the heater value line.
For 4.0L engines. The servo mounts on the firewall. Unmount bracket from the sevo and place it on the firewall approximate near the warning sticker about using the right oil filter. Use a paint marker or sharpie and mark the holes with the bracket. Then drill the three mounting holes. Install bracket with three self tapping bolts. Next install the servo on the bracket.
Next connect vacuum lines and electrical pigtail to servo. Then guide the cable over to the throttle linkage through a hole in the bracket that the cable clips into. The end of the cable clips into a pivot point that does not have a cable on it.
I am more than happy to take more photos or answer any questions about installing and troubleshooting.