I hope that everyone that sees this thread will go check their coolant and change it regularly. I believe the previous owner of my truck put stop leak and never really changed the coolant. After over a year of dealing with disgusting coolant and multiple attempts at flushing with distilled water and Prestone radiator flush. I had enough and was determine to fix my problem once for all.
Wix Coolant Filter 24070 5in length or 24069 4 in length. (Make sure the coolant filter does not have chemicals in it. These two filter do not have any chemicals in them.)
Wix Filter Base 24763
Heater Hose(maybe be need depending on mounting location)
Barb Hose Fittings 5/8" Barb 1/2" Threads Ace Hardware 4501235 (Any fittings will work just make sure the threads are 1/2")
Metal (if you choose to make a mounting bracket)
Determining The Cause of Coolant Turing Colors
Coolant in our trucks are suppose to be an alien neon green color. The problem I was facing was my coolant over a 2-4 week period would turn brown. There is three major potential causes of this change in coolant color. I am not an expert but here are my understanding from my research.
1. Possible Oil Contamination: To check look in the radiator and overflow bottle or look in the coolant bottle on closed systems for a milkshake like substance. Also look at the oil dip stick and oil fill cap for this milkshake as well. If found this indicates a possible head gasket issues or on automatic models the trans cooler built into the radiator has failed. If you take a sample of coolant and let it sit unshaken for a few hours to a day, you will see oil separate and float to the top of the coolant.
2. Exhaust Gases: To check open the cap on the radiator on open systems or coolant bottle while COLD and start your engine. If exhaust gases are getting into the system, you should see a stream of bubbles escaping over a long period of time. A good coolant system without exhaust gasses leaks will have a few bubbles on start up is normal and will disappear shortly.
3. Rust: If you can rule out the first two, this is most likely your problem. A good check is removing the radiator cap and overflow bottle cap or bottle cap and looking into the system to see if there any brown sluge. Also if you take a sample of the coolant out and let it sit unshaken for a few hours to a day, you will see a separation of heavier sluge and particles on the bottom of the container. My problem was rust in my coolant system. This is a problem with our engines due to the block and heads being made out of iron.
Cleaning and Refreshing the Coolant System
Step 1: I highly recommend using Thermocure flush before install. Works wonders to get rid of rust and sludge in the system. The process of doing a flush with Thermocure is simple by just draining the coolant system and dumping in one bottle of Thermocure with distilled water. Then just put the coolant system through several cycles. I left in it for about 4 days since i consider my case severe. Below is before and after pictures of the coolant overflow bottle with only Thermocure and distilled water. Also behind the water pump after use.
Step 2: To ensure reliability and cleanness of the coolant system, I highly recommend replacing the following parts:
Optional but still recommend doing it at the same time.
Overflow/ Coolant Bottle
Also don't cheap out on these parts and buy them used. I learned that the hard way with the radiator because I believe the Jeep it came from had issues and it added to the problems with my truck in regards to the coolant system.
Tips on Refreshing the Coolant System
I could have done a write up on installing a water pump, radiator, etc but since those are easy to find out the process to do. Here are some tips that I learn that will help with install with these parts.
1. Loosen the nuts on the fan pulley and bolts on the water pump bolts with the belt still on. These pulleys can become hard to hold on to in order to loosen the hardware with out the tension of the belt on the pulleys.
2. In order to remove the radiator cross member, unbolt the front clip from the fenders and move it about an inch forward. This will allow easy removal and prevent the unnecessary pain of removing torx bolts on the cross member to remove the front clip support bracket.
3. Make sure you put rtv on the water pump and thermostat gaskets to ensure no leaks.
Coolant Filter Install
Step 1: Drain coolant system before install.
Step 2.: Find a suitable location to place the filter and base. Find what works the best for you and your truck. The location I chose was behind the ac compressor /alternator and forward of the distributor mounted on a bracket that I made that bolts to the valve cover.
Step 3: The coolant filter will be run in line with one of the heater hose due to the filter is a by pass filter and can not handle the volume of water on a main coolant hose. I chose to run the filter on the return line for the heater core with the hose connectors that I had. Depending on your mounting location you may need a 90 degree fittings or other fittings to prevent restricting the hose from free flowing or run in line of the intake of the the heater core. When installing your fittings make sure to use telfon tape or rtv to seal the threads to prevent leaks. Make sure the hose connectors are run in the correct direction of flow for the hose you wish to use. Below is the diaphragm for renix coolant system routing.
Step 4: Run the heater hoses to the coolant filter base and use hose camps to secure the hoses. Cut and add as need to fit your application. For my install I just cut the return hoses and remove about 3 inches of hoses to fit the coolant filter.
Step 5: Install Coolant filter onto filter base
Step 6: Add protective wire loom or some type of protector to prevent hose(s) from rubbing if needed.
Step 7: Add 50/50 mixed coolant and bleed air out of the coolant system by ruining the engine and getting to operating temp when the thermostat opens up. Highly recommend getting a coolant funnel makes this process easy to ensure all of the air is bleed out.
My thoughts and experience as of 6/6/2020
I finish this process about 3 weeks ago and I haven't had any trouble except for needing to tighten up a hose camp or two. The coolant is staying that alien green and I don't really see any floating particles in the system. In the overflow bottle there are some particles but that is to be expected in an overflow bottle. Overall I believe this is worth the money and time to do and ensures a longer life for coolant parts and the engine. I might be crazy but my truck seem to run a little bit better and the renix seems to be happier than it has ever been. I plan on updating with my experiences and any issues that comes up I will let everyone know.
Hope this write up will help someone out facing a similar issue. If there any errors or suggestions please let me know and I will edited them in.