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josehuerta

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About josehuerta

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    Jeeper

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    Deming, New Mexico

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  1. Anyone know if just the backs would interchange - in other words put an XJ back on an MJ seat cushion? In particular a back from the 97-01 XJ's.
  2. Thank you! Ground switching. I have minimal experience troubleshooting electrical issues on a vehicle but have already run into this before on the Comanche. I reasoned that it had to be negative switched - ground switched - but with no experience was not sure it was even feasible. This information in itself is a great thing to know for any troubleshooting on the vehicle.
  3. An additional thought: if the pins both go to the ground side of the bulb then what is the power source? Do the two pins both go the ground side of the bulb... or come from the ground side? In other words, are these what I call negative switched, meaning the bulb is hot but not on until grounded through one of the leads? Afraid I'm not very "electric" -
  4. OK, not as simple as I always want things to be. I'm an old guy and this quickly made my brain tired. Bottom line: I seek a new replacement switch that will work without having to replace the complete proportioning valve... for my use and anyone else ..in this situation to keep these old Comanches running (it would not require pulling the block, bleeding brakes, etc.). Any salvage switch is 20 year old plastic. Plus I live in a small town with no really good salvage yard. Would a single pin work? My take on the schematic and your explanation is that yes... both/either lead triggers the light. Also, I see some 2 pin switches on the internet but assume not all switches are the same - different engagement pressures for different vehicles. Tracking that down is a challenge in itself. Thoughts? Anyone? I always find a way to make things more difficult -
  5. I would not even describe it as internal. there appears to be a bonding strap between the two pins visible in the cavity holding the pins. 1st pic shows switch without the actuating pin in place (remember, my switch is broken), the 2nd shows it with it in place as it would likely appear when engaged by a pressure differential. That same pin would at that point be contacting the body of the shuttle valve. Could this then ground either/both circuits to trigger the light?
  6. I appreciate the input. I used my own spare today and hoping someone has discovered an interchange that will work in it's place. I spent the afternoon looking for one of these with no luck. I know I could source a replacement block from a salvage yard, but was hoping to find just the switch with fresh plastic that doesn't just crack as my original did. Frustrated with throwing away otherwise good parts (and being jacked up by dealerships).
  7. Brake fluid pressure sensor mounts in the top of the distribution manifold - triggers the brake warning light on the dash. Two pin on my '91. Anyone have a part number for one of these ? Any brand, Mopar preferred. My local AZ can't find a number for it. Any help appreciated -
  8. The gauge is easy to find but I had no luck with the link to Casper for the adaptor and a search of the site failed as well. Ebay, Amazon (may be the right one but in quantities of ten) no luck. Probably my search description is missing the mark but would appreciate a link if anyone knows where to get them. And are they 37 degree flare or 45? Thanks much -
  9. My old friend is back on the road. My inexperience with these problems is apparent (I bent nails for a living - construction) but this has been a frustrating yet challenging and rewarding experience. Apparently it was the perfect storm. Crank sensor and fuel pump (10 lbs.) were dropping out at the same time. Along the way my distributor had seen better days. All have been replaced and I -and my dogs - are happy to be back in the Comanche. Advice given here was of tremendous help. I assumed I needed a scanner to read the trouble codes but this forum has saved my butt. Many thanks to all for your input..
  10. Apologies. My questions have detoured Coolwind's thread so I've started another. I thought I was headed where he is regarding the repair but the consensus is that it's unlikely to be a problem with the ECU in any case. You've given me good advice and everyone's input is much appreciated -
  11. First, I'm not the mechanic many of you are here but here is what I got. I have a '91 with 4.0. It started slow for about a week but I hoped it was just the ethanol gas Now it starts hard or not at all, then sputters, stalls if I try to drive it. First I had a new crank sensor installed at a shop (blown back means I can't do the stoop, shimmy, twist under the truck anymore).Process of elimination the cam sensor, distributor cap, rotor have all been replaced. Disconnecting the MAP sensor lets it idle but not run correctly. I had the instrument cluster out chasing a short and wonder if that could have caused the problem. What am I missing? Is my ECU likely the problem? If so, smarter to have my original rebuilt or just do the exchange and any recommendations for a quality rebuilder would be appreciated. If I need another ECU will it learn the truck or do I have to take it to a shop for programming? Lots of questions but would appreciate any advice.
  12. Not hijacking the thread but would like to avoid this kind of problem if possible. Mine is '91 so not renix -
  13. Any advantage to having my original ecu rebuilt versus just exchange for another? Any recommendations for a shop that rebuilds them (quality work, warranty, etc.)?
  14. Yes, I saw that after I made the post. My bad (stupidity), I should have read the rules before I jumped the gun. Not sure if that applies to the pm's. Anyone know? Glad the radio found a good home -
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