ghetdjc320

Medium density fiber board. It’s what they make most speaker cabinets with. Denser than particle board and very smooth. Can be found at pretty much any lumber yard. I would an 3/4”. When you say “fit behind the panel” are you talking about the original panel? I didn’t have one when I got my truck so I just used the mdf board as a replacement for the original.

It will, I ran a very similar setup before. The trick is to really secure and insulate that panel. That back cab bulkhead can't handle sub vibrations very well. Expect to find a great number of rattles if mounted there along with lackluster performance. Thicker MDF board will do better.

Looking good so far! It's all the little trips to the hardware store and local auto parts that add up quick.

Oh my

Wondering why they cut it in the first place??

Boxy’s setup is a nice design. But I will say, if you want a nice stereo “sound stage”, ditch the rear speakers, run larger components in the front doors along with plenty of sound deadening. Morels are a nice choice but there are plenty of other good options. A class A/B amp as well for the door speakers. A little powered sub at least will help round things out. @Gjeep highly recommended this little sub: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSWX010/Pioneer-TS-WX010A.html I’d use the b pillar location for some small subs but heavy fab work would be involved. Quieting down the cab will be time well spent even riding with the windows down.

Here are some pics on Russ’ work. Far exceeds the finishing standards that most of the big shops are putting out. He’s got all the parts you need as well and his prices can’t be beat. Bishop Buehl Racing is his company name. He puts together diy packages or turn key engines. Almost pulled the trigger with this recent build but decided against another straight 6 build.

Sounds like the torque converter is starved or failing

I know there are many naysayers, but a Russ potenger ported Edelbrock head and a 99+ intake would be my recommendation. Keep a tight quench and bump up the compression and you’ll have an efficient 4.0 http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/tech_specs.html

I’m running JT/JL wheels. I’m running a 19mm rear adapter and 27mm front adapter as well to adjust my track width the way I needed it. The JT/JL wheels use a 14mm stud with a different lug nut base. The wheel adapters I had custom made from BORA off-road include the right stud size so I can run stock JT/JL lug nuts.

That’s right, tan wire has a clip for the oem fuse box. There is a black ground wire also heavy gauge in the harness there. Hard to see it with the background though.

I also have all 96 wiring. There is no relay for the windows. There is a thicker gauge tan wire that needs power from the fuse box and also a ground line. That will run all the window power. There is a connector on the drivers side of the cross-cab harness that is for the door locks relays. You’ll have to make your own simple relay setup. I’ll try to snap some pics of it tomorrow.

Many different turbine pumps can be adapted with minimal mods to the stock fuels sender. I’m running a deatschwerks dw200 pump on mine.

Any chance you have access to a water jet cutter? That would probably work well too.

Have you tried reassembling the hvac to the firewall yet? 1" was too thick for the cowl opening for mine so i ended up with 3/4. "Minicell L200" foam is what I used and seemed to be identical to the oem stuff. Made some nice kneeling pads for working under the truck with the extra. That stuff also cuts excellent with an electric turkey carver.

I’ve reached out to my contact at Alcan for follow up. Hopefully he can chime in with some support and some good options for those needing some good quality alternatives to the RC or GS spring options. BTW, I have no connection to Alcan other than being a very satisfied customer. I’ve run their springs for many years on my YJ and beat them to hell and back with zero issues. They were the best riding, and highest quality springs I’ve ever owned.

I dug up some info in an email I had from Alcan. $938 for a pair and the bushings are included. 6 week build time. Number to call to order I was given is 970-241-2655. That was for a 3” lift spring in 2022

Great looking rig. Congrats!

I’ve also used this one on my last MJ: https://jbaspeedshop.com/i-22726026-91-95-jeep-wrangler-mid-pipe.html They can be found for a good deal if you shop around. Excellent quality

Post them up in that thread I started if you don’t mind and we should be able to get them ID’d.

Thats great to know! I'll have to get by there before I take off again. As you come across different connectors, would you mind taking a picture of them so we can ID them?

I was really considering a 97+ interior swap originally just for the gauges and audio options. They make a nice double din dash kit to run a decent carplay/android head unit. And the dakota digital HDX setup for the 97+ XJ/TJ is awesome. Thinking about that setup for my current TJ. Ultimately I preferred the style of the original dash and once I found such a pristine black dash I was committed. Intellitronix makes a cluster for the TJ/XJ dash and even has the LS swap sensor adapters. Very cost effective and quiality gauges.

Interestingly enough, even though all the big manufacturers no doubt spec’d connectors for their parts and probably even gave them their own part numbers, I don’t think many of them actually produced them in-house. Delphi (aptive) made most of GM products. So far I’ve found Delphi, Molex, Sumitomo and Yazaki connectors throughout the MJ/XJ components. What I’m aiming to compile is the actual manufacturers part numbers so we don’t have to rely on some GM, AMC or ChryCo part numbers. Another interesting one to find are the power window/lock pin connectors. Those almost look like they use the same potting material in the Mopar HO PCMs. I’ve seen ford use those though. Wonder if those may have been an in-house manufacturing attempt

This one stumped me for a while: power mirror switch plug. Turns out it’s a Yazaki PA .120 series from Japan (makes sense as several parts on the MJ were made in Japan). Looks suspiciously close to a TE 7 pin but it’s slightly different.