ghetdjc320

Hammer and flat head screw driver. It will probably be caked on there. Clean up around the ring first so dirt or debris doesn’t get down in the tank.

What year did the XJ 44 come out of?

Been a few months back since I spoke with someone at Deaver. AFAIK they were still making the jeepspeed springs. If it doesn’t work out though, checkout Alcan. They’ve been on their game recently it seems.

Key parts is the one to get still. C2c copied the key parts XJ floor pan which is what we all had to use previously but now they have the MJ specific pan. Brushable seam sealer is what the factory used around the floor pan joints.

The switch to the floating caliper and pad “wings” came in 1990 on 4wd (maybe also 2wd???)

No need to baby it. If it takes massive amounts of torque to remove then maybe split it. But an impact and some pb blaster will probably zip that right off.

Don’t they make hvac duct tape in that thickness?

Are the nuts seized on or something? I just sprayed some blaster on it and waited a day. Came right off with zero issues. I added a touch of copper based antisieze to all the bolts under the truck when reassembling any suspension parts.

Have you recently done a gear swap or changed bearings?

ABS starts to deform around 100c. I’m betting it’s a poly blend of some sort. There are a few home tests you can do to find out what type of plastic it is. Most plastic epoxy’s should work fine with some minor prep. Heck, you could just use some aluminum duct tape.

On my waggy 44 I ran a ruff stuff 3/4 heim kit. Worked well at the time but I’m not really a fan of heim steering anymore. I’d go 1 ton tre’s and build a system around that. The heim joints have no good way of greasing them and purging out the crap that will inevitably get in them. Plus, even though you may precisely drill a hole for a bolt, it will always have more play than a tapered fitting. But DOM linkage is nice to have.

It’s not ABS. Pretty sure it was Polyethylene when I did some plastic welding on my old unit. I used PE filler rods

Bought direct from Joying. Took maybe 7 days to arrive. Definitely a quality unit. I painted the screen mounting brackets black as well so you don’t see the plastic color from the side. Very nice unit with plenty of features. Plus I really love having a volume knob. Simple feature but hard to find anymore.

For my I’d go with a new one. Completely different look of course. When I had my YJ I was planning to fabricate a sheet metal dash. It’s not too terribly complicated

So after a super deep dive into this (and having tried various double din methods) I settled on the Joying 6.2. It’s the same model @Limeyjeeper is running. Great unit. Android based, and works with both e wireless CarPlay and android auto. Built in DSP, and the only touchscreen head unit that fits in the stock radio location without covering the hvac controls or interfering with the dash. It’s not an economy line unit either.

Measure out the dash width from a YJ and see what fits. Interestingly enough, a TJ dash may actually be a closer match as well. I’d go the opposite direction, I’d look at installing a gladiator dash. For an “old jeep” kind of look though, you could just fabricate a flat steel dash

So does that use something like a J bolt similar to the gas tank?

I’ve been working on documenting all the different connectors and taking detailed pictures from XJ/MJ/YJ & TJs. Some are starting to become familiar like the apex series. Been trying to compile a master source with the actual connector manufacturer and model numbers since most of our rigs are going to need replacements or repairs sooner or later. It seems that, once Chrysler was finally able to get away from AMC leftovers, they mostly moved to the Apex 2.8 connectors for the chassis. AMC was such a mixed bag of parts. Many Delphi/Aptive 150 series but there are so many more thrown in the mix. Seems like they would source a component from a company and would also have that supplier source the connector for them instead of specc’ing a specific connection type. Probably just further proof that AMC was going under. And they were getting suppliers from all over the globe.

Looked up the picture online. If this is the fan plug you have then here is the link to the connector and pins you need: https://www.customconnectorkits.com/products/54200206 Or if you want it to be a fully assembled pigtail: https://www.customconnectorkits.com/products/10757672-pt?Wire+Gauge=12+AWG Go with at least 14awg but 12 if you can. I’ve found most 97+ XJ body/lamp harness connectors are Apex 2.8 series

Any pictures of what they sent you?

Can you take a picture of what you need?

On all the above except for the “call Hesco” part. The Mopar springs have been a go to for strikers for some time now. As for cam wear, the comp cam lines are just plain narrow. You can run the sealed power/melting springs and be good with the 232. The Mopar purple cam referenced above is a great setup as the lobes are full width as stock. Just remember, keep you oil zinc content high, especially during break in. You can either use additive or break in style oil.

I remember when I was a kid my dad would buy me those built it yourself radio kits from radio shack. They were a ton of fun and really helped me learn a lot about general 12c electronics. I remember I ended up building a pretty powerful AM radio

Depends on the year. If you can use the flange it’s a stronger design than the yoke. But on my 97 I swapped on a standard D44 1310 yoke. The 98+ would use the JK yoke in whatever seize you need

Thanks Pete, fitting title for sure