ghetdjc320

I’ve had the best success with the Gibson silver ceramic header. Never warped, cracked or deformed in any way.

You don’t have to run an oem strainer with that pump. Just use whatever will fit the pump and has an offset mount. I just opened up a few boxes and found one that worked well.

Seems like moral of the story is, don't use dielectric grease on your belt

Dana has an economy line (SVL iirc) that can be difficult if not impossible to get an ideal pattern on. Same goes for Yukons “USA standard gear”. They will all work though

87 MJ didn’t come with an ax15 but it may have been swapped. BA10 was the standard behind the 4.0 up to around 89

Generated a 3D file for the air intake area Also took some measurement pictures 1741998033_Airintake.zip

This particular maf that came with my c5 engine is made specifically for 3.5" tube afaik. The c5 has the over the radiator oval design on the intake that necks back to a 3.5" tubing then the maf then the filter. I'd love to do something very custom here but the 3.5" tubing looks to be the best bet overall. I am thinking along the lines of a custom airbox though or perhaps even custom intake routing. I'll have to take a closer look at it and see what may work. I do like though that there is plenty of room around the engine for airflow.

Just went out to double check and I have right at 4” of clearance at the pinch point between the ps reservoir and the fan shroud. I’m thinking the 3.5 will fit perfectly with a bit of clearance all around

I was surprised how much oil accumulates in the intake. I always run a catch can on my watercraft but they are supercharged. Hadn’t seen a NA engine need one. Looking at a nice clean option if I can find one. Chase bays has a nice kit as does improved racing

I had thought about flipping the TB but it’s a 3 bolt. My plan is to build similar to the design @USN_JeepMJ used but with carbon fiber tubing for less heat absorption. Also, after cleaning out that ls6 intake manifold, I believe a catch can is in order

You can get 1541 shafts on rock auto for a temp fix. That must have been quite the event to break a chromo shaft.

Nice clearance all around here. The air intake is the tricky part

Seems like using a touch can help . It’s mostly silicone so it may condition the belt somewhat but will increase slipping if you have too much on it.

Why not a bit of belt dressing? It worth it though to remove the belt and clean out the grooves on all your pulleys.

Just a few build notes on this swap so far: The LS2 (c6 corvette) water pump is a nice swap and saves a lot of room between the engine and radiator. I'm also quite pleased with the 3/8npt to 1/8npt reducer that allows me to run the stock jeep gauge sender for temp. The stock threads in the head are metric and about the size of an m10 bolt. There are adapters that fit the threads and give you a 1/8npt female side but do not allow the sensor probe to fit properly. Drilling and tapping to 3/8npt gives plenty of material for the jeep sensor to thread into and actually allows the probe to reach the coolant stream. Also upgraded to the LS2 ps puller which is a nice steel unit vs the plastic ls1 unit. the puller also has holes that allow you to access all the power steering pump bolts making removal much easier. I have noticed that the corvette parts do seem like top shelf components so ive tried to stick with all genuine GM corvette stuff as much as possible and tried to avoid as many custom parts under the hood as practical for easier servicing down the road.

Yes, the turbine style pump is superior to the old rotary vane style

Yeah, my transmission is just on a jack stand at the moment and is sitting a bit too high. But I also moved the engine back to the middle alignment hole. I think it’s going to be spot on with about 1/2” of clearance or a tad more when in final position

Not sure. I’d always heard to adjust the door gaps first then install the seals but maybe there is a better way?

Is it too much to ask that the aftermarket spend an extra few minutes on engineering the products they think are worth their weight in gold?? Quick draw could have just made a small 45* flat slope on their ax15 bell housing just like the oem jeep ax15 bell housings have. That would have provided almost universal clearance. And maybe spend a few more pennys to upgrade the insta-rust bell housing bolts they send along to something coated in say… zinc? I had already marked where I’d like more clearance on the bell housing with the engine positioned. I cutout that area and made a small plate to cover it. Then I seam sealed the back and riveted it to the bell housing. It shaved off about 3/4” in the area that was interfering. Doesn’t look like much in the pictures but the hole is about 2x5”. I ground down the sourrounding areas to provide a more “flush” mating surface. Primed and painted the bell housing with VHT cast aluminum paint.

I’d suggest using that Bosch pump. Better performance and longevity. If you purchase the right part number (which seems to have been discontinued) it should have come with the adapters to fit in place of the old rotary vane pump.

Pretty much. Just need driveshafts, a battery, exhaust and some bunch list items. The final task will be body work. The next major project will be electrical.

Yeah I went back and forth on what to do with the axle tubes. My use case is probably a bit different than most who get these. This is mostly a street truck but due to the heavy weather we tend to get along with the salt spray, I thought they’d be a good idea. Plus having coated the inside of the tubes makes me feel better about running them. Next up is finishing the firewall accessories then move to engine/tranny/tcase install. Lots of little mods along the way. Of note, when using the WK2 calipers, they use a 10mm banjo bolt. The YJ lines I have use a 3/8 banjo bolt so I filed them out until the 10mm banjo bolt fit perfectly. Turned out very nice

Back on its own weight.

Np242 gate swapped. There’s no difference in throw, it’s just the placement of the “gate” that makes the difference. Also added some tube seals. Need to get creative with the grease zert as I have inner C braces but I packed them with green grease already. The tubes were so full of scale, rust and mud that I really wanted a better solution. The plastic dust caps help but not as much as I’d like.