Dal3

Thanks for the reply. I'm trying to get information about the function, testing and servicing of the LSPV automatically variable rear brake proportioning valve. I made a pressure bleeder adapter and applied 10 psi pressure at the master cylinder reservoir. I cracked open the supply fitting on the side of the LSPV and got a stronger flow of fluid there than from gravity alone, as I expected. I retightened that fitting then loosend the fitting on the top of the LSPV. The line from there connects to a Tee fitting joining it with the rear axle brake hose and another line returning to the vicinty of the master cylinder. I have guessed this is the way the variable braking is affected, by "bleeding off" part of the pressure as determined by the LSPV. I don't understand this system. And leading to this attempt to bleed the rear brakes, it was necessary to replace all of the lines under I've described. I think I correctly copied all the connections and the existing system in place looked OEM. I had the lever on the LSPV at 3:00 p.m. (viewing forward) and tried slowly rotating the valve, but still didn't get fluid from the top of the valve. Should the valve be cleaned or serviced or parts in it replaced? Inside the LSPV, under the top fitting is a component valve. I showed this valve to the the owner of the NAPA store while fitting it for an o-ring. He said the valve looked like a proportioning valve , but he didn't know what an LSPV is. Dale

I'm finally trying to straighten out the my rear brakes. I watched a YouTube video by someone saying the OEM load sensing brakes do not work well and should be eliminated. I'd considered bypassing the proportioning system. However, I am concerned the brakes on the wheels could be inherently more sensitive on this load sensing system. I have everything connected, but haven't bled the system. Is anything different bleeding the proportioning system? Is there a diagram of the connections in this system I can use to confirm connections are correct? I haven't found these issues discussed in the forums.

Author Posted just now Dal3>watchamakalit I've entered requests for quotes from a couple of these online shipping contact services. Is there a way we can exchange private messages on this site? The services are asking for detailed information about the pickup site. My guess is dealing with it will be too much trouble for a couple of springs. Dale

Dal3>watchamakalit I could try to find a shipper using shiply.com. What would be the price if picked up? Nearest I-69 exit? Dale

OP>watchamakalit I'm in Bloomington and unable travel. Seems these would be hard to ship too. What price though? Thanks, Dale

I've studied the leaf spring assembly on my truck again and it actually has 4 leafs. The broken leaf is second from the to, ust below the frame mount

It's a stock 89 Pioneer 5 peed 4.OL. Google Gemini says only 1986-'92 Comanche springs fit. I just want to get the truck going and not upgrade anything. I'd change only the broken leaf if I could. I'm in Bloomington Indiana and looking for parts. I plan to call local wrecking yards Monday. Are all OEM spec springs compatible? Mine have 3 leaves. The center leaf is broken on the passenger side. Thanks, Dale

I misplaced the thread for a while, but did get the flashers working. I believe that problem was related to the brake fluid damaged fuse block. Thanks Dale

Didn't mean to post,yet My experience with bad flashers has been that it caused indicators to come on, but not flash. None of the lights or indicators work with turn switch on setting. Hazard light and parking light function is normal, but turn doesn't work. Is there an electrical manual available for download or copying? I have instrument covers off. Quote

My experience with bad flasher is that bad indicator

Htchevyii , I just checked and no blow-by or pressure at the filler opening or pvc hose. Recall that originally there was large oil consumption, which stopped when I lost the oil filler cap, actually, stimulating my suspicion of engine control dysregulation as possible cause of the loss. Then, I found the intelligible video guide to the engine vacuum hose connection locations. I already knew they were somewhat incomplete and likely a mess. I've mostly implemented the video recommendations, getting needed vacuum line and connectors from auto salvage. and the engine is performing better. It seems to have cleared up a persistent jumpy throttle/surge. I replaced the oil cap. I haven't driven enough since to check consumption, but after driving a few miles now with the cap on there was only about 1 drop on the floor, a big improvement. I doubt the loss was caused by blow-by, but still don't know what, exactly. Thanks. Dale

It's an "89, 4.0, as described in the title. I'm not equipped to send pictures. I've learned a lot about Comanche hose connections from the linked YouTube video featuring a 1988 Comanche. I now have matching components on my 1989 connected as the video instructed, changing most. The video doesn't discuss systems, but illustrates the connections well. Can anyone tell me which hose connections might have changed between 1988 and 1999 models? Dale

https://comancheclub.com/topic/55531-89-comanche-vacuum-diagram/ Diagram shows PCV hose running to back of air cleaner. No corresponding fittings there though, There is a 1/2" plastic hose from the PCV valve running toward the front which ends at a strange round plastic manifold with about 12 round fittings of varying-size. One plastic outlet about 1/2" diameter goes from there through a 90 degree elbow heading toward the air cleaner hose, but no connector candidate in the vicinity. The PVC hose is not clearly visible in the link as viewed on my Comanche. Clear photos showing complete properly routed and connected PVC hose, header, and adjacent hoses would be helpful. I don't have much to go by at this point. The fitting at the back of the valve cover wasn't connected properly. I have rerouted that hose to the unidentified manifold fitting (just behind what is labeled in the diagram as "vacuum fitting.") What could be happening to the engine oil with the oil cap on. I was about to change the rear seal because a lot was dropping off at the back. Now I want to get things properly buttoned up, then clean the engine bay before doing anything else.

After making my original post I decided to take the little I had learned about the system from a youtube video (Location of the fuel pump and electrical connection) back to the truck in daylight. This morning I returned to the truck and found that someone had cut 2 of the wires, then reconnected them with wire nuts. One of these had shaken loose and that was the source of my problem. Thanks for the information provided. I'm going to try to learn a more about how the the system is lid out in case of later trouble Thgaks, Dale

This is a personal utility truck I've owned 8 years that I don't use frequently. Until this morning, the engine had generally performed satisfactorily. While running errands in town, on the 3rd start, the engine sounded a bit rough. As I drove about 1/10 mile more it ran worse stalling frequently. Finally, it wouldn't restart. It would just sputter during cranking. As I thought about it, I realized I hadn't heard the fuel pump cycle on, as it has normally when turning the ignition on. Trying to confirm my fuel supply hunch, I dumped some fuel into the air intake hose. Cranking confirmed the problem was fuel supply. And, I surmise, the non-running pump was the likely source. However, I'm unfamiliar with the system and don't know how test the various components. So I need to take a crash course learning to: identify, name. understand, locate and test system components To isolate the cause of the fuel pump not running. I don't have a repair manual. I just watched a video about changing the fuel pump, so I know the pump's location and how to locate it's power connection. About the only other thing I know about the pump is the location of the ballast resistor. That is because I was having some fuel trouble immediately after I bought the truck. I was advised to bypass the ballast resistor, which did and that solved the problem. I was also told the ballast resistor was only present to make the pump less noisy and didn't need to be replaced. And I haven't replaced it (In case this might be related to the problem I'm having now.) One question I have is the identity of a black plastic component near the ballast resistor "Whether it is related to the pump and, if so, its name and function. It is connected to wires from the same harness sheathing as the ballast resistor wires. I'd appreciate knowledgeable information Dale