pizzaman09

Oh man, that's a looker. My first one was white with gold Hockey Stick graphics, I liked it's style more than my current Eliminator. This truck is really clean.

Burning electrical and hot brake/clutch material do smell about the same. Look at the wiring under the dash for sure. Also check to see if anything that shouldn't be is running against the exhaust.

What's funny is the only reason I purchased the Anchor ones was that they advertised that they utilized the rubber to metal bonding adhesive that my employer makes. That said, they have been great!

It should not matter which way you plug it in. It's just a momentary switch opening or closing the circuit of those two wires. Are your brake lights off when the truck is off?

I remember running into this when I purchased one at the auto store for my BA10/5. There is a different mount for each the AX-15, BA10/5 and AW4. Unfortunately I'm not sure which is which.

Make it happen and make it work! Thanks much.

I chose factory mounts, I think they were Anchor brand, super happy with them. My original mounts were well past their expiration date, fully torn and just kinda captured by the outer housing.

I definitely approved of going parallel flow. I did that upgrade on another old R13 car when switching to R134a and it worked well.

I used Safelite, they did it in my work parking lot. No issues at all, they used the older style. That said they scratched the daylights out of my cowel, they were not careful and I wasn't actually happy.

My twin brother and I were lucky enough for our grandparents to give us their 1999 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight for our first car. We drove it for 17 years until it was too rusty underneath to reasonably pass PA inspection. It's the only automatic vehicle we've owned. I miss it dearly. Pics just before it was sold to my brother's coworker in NY where he still daily drives it. Occasionally in highschool our parents would let us drive their 1998 BMW 740iL or even more rarely their 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited.

My truck is a manual, when ever I let the clutch out it would usually shudder. Well today I'm happy to report I fixed it. I happened to need a new starter motor as the original died. While putting the new one in I saw that one of my belhousing to engine bolts was missing, the one at 9:00. I replaced it and also found the 3:00 bolt was a bit loose. The shudder is completely gone and shifting is a joy again. I hope this helps someone. On my first Comanche, an 88 with a 4.0L, BA10/5 and 4x4, the similar shudder was a result of a bad rear transmission mount.

Indeed, I'm super happy that it happened when it did because it was a borrowed trailer from my parents, I'd hate for the problem to have happened to them.

Sweet! Nice wheels and sport bar!

Picked up a few too many large rocks at the local landscaping place over the weekend. Taking it careful home at 25 mph on the back roads, it felt like a tire blew on the trailer, I looked in the mirror and saw a wheel bouncing into the weeds. Wheel broke off the axle at the factory weld. Drug the trailer about 40ft when it happened. Examination of the fatigue crack showed the axle had been cracked about 3/8 of the way around the weld before we started the day as the crack was rusty. Luckily some friends lived nearby with a heavy duty trailer and a coworker happened to come up the road shortly after it all happened and offered his tractor with forks. We wheeled the trailer on one wheel 500ft up the road to a friend of a friend of the guy that lent us the tractor. Guy was kind enough to let us leave things in his driveway for while so we could run and get all the welding equipment to put the wheel back on. Trailer was safely mounted on jack stands for the repair. Ended up getting everything home safely, took the help of several good friends and 6 hours for what should have been a 30 minute cruise home. Rember, don't overload your equipment.

I personally purchased the common four hole Volvo injector part number people use but went with random Ebay knock offs. They have been fantastic. I certainly can't guarantee they would work for you but I lucked out.

Yes the two part numbers clip together in the middle of the harness.

My cruise had stopped working recently. After going through the NAXJA thread and everything proved out. But I had noticed that the pins on the connector looked crushed so I re-tensioned pins and now my cruise works flawlessly. I suspect the pins became messed up when I was recently working on some stuff under the dash and had unplugged the cruise yellow box. Hopefully this helps someone when everything is checking out well.

The majority of the little plastic lines can be purchased off of rock auto. Dorman 46003 and 46004 are the parts you need. There are some other vacuum lines in the truck you may have to search harder for those or just replace with generic line from an auto store.

I would definitely believe that it would be way easier to remove the oil pan with the transmission out, particularly on my 4x4 equipped truck. It was an absolute pain trying to get the front axle low enough to actually pull the oil pan out.

It's no doubt an awesome truck. Personally I think the asking price is strong for one with that high of mileage. However, if it was 3k miles closer to home I'd strongly consider picking it up as a project. I actually purchased first MJ on a whim in Los Angeles with a non op title, though it ran perfectly. We then drove it all the way home to PA. It was an epic and fun trip.

Are you just driving it unloaded? If so then you probably do not have anything to worry about.

Just to let you know, you don't need to remove the transmission to replace the rear main seal. The Jeep 4.0L utilizes a two piece seal on the rear most main bearing cap. To replace that seal you actually remove the oil pan. That said it can be convenient to have the transmission out of the way but it definitely is not required.

More is more. I would be excited to have a bit more displacement if the price is worth it.

That's awesome

Really I just want a production version of the J6 concept with a V6 and a manual transmission. As long as it's a two door Jeep pickup with a manual, I'm highly interested. I'm perfectly fine with the IFS, I'm not a hard core off roader. Quite frankly I've driven my Austin Healey Sprite in just about all of the same places I've driven my Comanche off road.