pizzaman09

Thanks for following up with the solution! Mystery drive line and suspension sounds are the most challenging to solve.

If your good at welding, you could build up a bit of material right under where the bolts hit in the exhaust header and grind and file it to height to match the intake. Or you could machine or file down the intake to match the exhaust.

My parents used to have that issue in their 97 ZJ with the 4.0L. It was primarily caused by a cracked exhaust header that the crack closed up when the exhaust heated up. It also needed a new O2 sensor, which significantly reduced the stumbles even though we never fixed the exhaust header crack.

I did ACC Dark Grey and they are a bit darker than stock but still look right at home. https://comancheclub.com/uploads/monthly_2022_06/20220617_211732.JPG.61c8f0e72866da50614571457de63350.JPG

Took the MJ to the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix. Weather limited turn out but at least it was cool!

This. Check the manifold bolts and check for exhaust leaks before the O2 sensor. Also what brand O2 sensor did you use?

4800lb towable boom lift.

I just did a lot of searching and didn't come up with much. You could buy high quality silicone vacuum hose and use it as elbows.

Oh wow, that is scary.

Is that the resistor plug?

Very cool. I have a coworker with an 86 Ford Thunderbird Turbo Coupe he purchased brand new. Basically the same drivetrain as this.

I have zip ties on mine. If you have oil in your air filter, you probably don't have enough vacuum being pulled on the back valve cover port. I wrote a post recently about up sizing the line that has worked well for me and nearly eliminated my engine oil leaks and prevented the oily filter.

I have one and reflect what others have said. They work well, and certainly do a better job than I do by hand on a bench grinder.

Oh man, that's a looker. My first one was white with gold Hockey Stick graphics, I liked it's style more than my current Eliminator. This truck is really clean.

Burning electrical and hot brake/clutch material do smell about the same. Look at the wiring under the dash for sure. Also check to see if anything that shouldn't be is running against the exhaust.

What's funny is the only reason I purchased the Anchor ones was that they advertised that they utilized the rubber to metal bonding adhesive that my employer makes. That said, they have been great!

It should not matter which way you plug it in. It's just a momentary switch opening or closing the circuit of those two wires. Are your brake lights off when the truck is off?

I remember running into this when I purchased one at the auto store for my BA10/5. There is a different mount for each the AX-15, BA10/5 and AW4. Unfortunately I'm not sure which is which.

I chose factory mounts, I think they were Anchor brand, super happy with them. My original mounts were well past their expiration date, fully torn and just kinda captured by the outer housing.

I definitely approved of going parallel flow. I did that upgrade on another old R13 car when switching to R134a and it worked well.

I used Safelite, they did it in my work parking lot. No issues at all, they used the older style. That said they scratched the daylights out of my cowel, they were not careful and I wasn't actually happy.

My twin brother and I were lucky enough for our grandparents to give us their 1999 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight for our first car. We drove it for 17 years until it was too rusty underneath to reasonably pass PA inspection. It's the only automatic vehicle we've owned. I miss it dearly. Pics just before it was sold to my brother's coworker in NY where he still daily drives it. Occasionally in highschool our parents would let us drive their 1998 BMW 740iL or even more rarely their 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited.

My truck is a manual, when ever I let the clutch out it would usually shudder. Well today I'm happy to report I fixed it. I happened to need a new starter motor as the original died. While putting the new one in I saw that one of my belhousing to engine bolts was missing, the one at 9:00. I replaced it and also found the 3:00 bolt was a bit loose. The shudder is completely gone and shifting is a joy again. I hope this helps someone. On my first Comanche, an 88 with a 4.0L, BA10/5 and 4x4, the similar shudder was a result of a bad rear transmission mount.

Indeed, I'm super happy that it happened when it did because it was a borrowed trailer from my parents, I'd hate for the problem to have happened to them.

Sweet! Nice wheels and sport bar!