pizzaman09

Bucket. Really? It's rebuildable? I'll have to look closely it to see if I can short out how to get it apart.

The reason we want it to be electric is two fold. One, my twin brother really likes playing with batteries, two, we have a 38kw solar panels on our roof. There is also an advantage of going DC, you can get a lot more power in a lighter smaller envelope. This weekend we made a lot of progress. We mounted up the winch to the front of the truck. This involved adding a lot of 1/4 plate behind the front bumper. The photo below is just a progress photo, it the final state. Harbor freight 3500lb winch mounted and holding the blower up off the ground. The frame runs the full length of the truck and plugs backwards into the trailer hitch receiver we installed. The mount at the hitch receiver is made from a generic Doorman shackel so that we have a nice rubber bushing back there to allow motion without needing a hard pin joint. One more photo with the blower shoot placed on top. Nex step is to add the side to side stabilizing chains and add some small wheels to the back of the blower to keep the skids from dragging against our shiny new concrete.

I don't have a 3D printer but do have a 4 axis mini CNC mill. Machined a lot of stuff with it over the years. Someday I jump into the 3d printer world, right now it seems Bambu makes the best. We just picked up a few of them at work and they are leagues better than the Ultimakers we have.

I'm real close to Ohio, I live just south of Erie, PA. I have a couple friends in the Cleveland area so I make my way there every once in a while. I too will put the Comanche away the day the salt trucks come out.

This is an awesome little truck. I'm personally a fan of the stock graphics but it also looks great without them. I fixed that throttle cable issue on my truck with a zip tie in the same location clamped into the cable.

I really like this truck, fantastic look with it lowered and the white letter tires complete it.

My suggestion isn't based on experience but you might check the conncections at the ECU, unplug it, contact cleaner and plug it back in.

I'll be curious if this actually reduces noise for you.

This actually is very wise advice. Even better of you take that $1000 and invest it in a CD.

I've never seen one with under hood insulation but it can't hurt to try that product. My understanding is the Comanche and Cherokee hoods are identical other than early ones had a single latch instead of the double on the later ones.

I like the idea, though I think a swap to a 4:1 transfer case would provide the same benefits to me. Even when I'm towing a heavy load on the road, the factory first gear is plenty low enough. It would be epic for crawling.

Samurais are fun! I have a friend with a 1988.5 model, it is one of the most fun ways to zip around town or go to the beach with some friends. It's also the most capable vehicle I've ever driven in the snow, 4x4 in a light weight truck with no power and good snow tires.

Working on mounting up the DC drive motors. Also have all of the batteries built up and have them running a portion of the house off grid with the inverter that will also be used to charge the batteries when they are used for the blower.

I know you have a 2.5L and my experience is with the 4.0L engines but I suspect this applies. I've had issues that cause this sort of bucking caused by exhaust leaks from the exhaust manifold before the O2 sensor. Check to see that the intake/exhaust manifold bolts at the head are tight and all present. If not it can be leaking and you might even have a bad gasket there. You could also have a crack in the exhaust or even a bad O2 sensor. The symptoms change as the exhaust system heats and cools along with thermal expansion.

I went with the Key Parts ones. I would advise for installation to either get 3/16" aluminum rivets or aquire a heavy duty pop rivet setting tool for the stainless ones that come with the Key Parts kit. I broke 3 pop rivet guns trying to set those stainless steel rivets before I gave up and swapped them for aluminum.

That's a very nice looking setup.

The release button on my driver's seat belt no longer pops up and the latch is now unreliable. Does anyone have a driver's seat belt latch (female end with the release button).

I did this with my factory one when I had my transmission out! Definitely easy to do if you have it out.

You might have a small exhaust leak up stream of the cat. Check that your header isn't cracked and that the conncections between exhaust sections aren't leaking. I had this specific issue on a vintage car of mine.

I had the same issue with bumping my oil pressure gauge needle when I cleaned my cluster. @Eagle_SX4 is spot on with the fix.

Also check that the manifold header bolts are tight and all are present. This can cause all sorts of poor running that manifests itself as an incorrect fuelling issue.

I think you have hit 50% of the answer with the reduced pressure comment. Seals use pressure to help push them to the edge of the cavity they are attempting to seal. The other part of the problem is that all rubber seals experience a phenomenon called compression set. This is effectively when the rubber takes the shape of its compressed state and doesn't spring back to its original as molded design. Temperature can also play a roll and the answer very well could be a combination of all three. I find it unlikely that housing porosity could be a source but it's possible, similarly corrosion or rust can do the same thing.

I used Permatex rear view mirror adhesive, it worked perfectly.

I needed to make a work trip up to VT, 8 hr drive each way from Erie, PA. Instead of grabbing a rental car I decided to drive the MJ. It has been a delightful trip, particularly this time of year driving through the Adirondack mountains of upstate NY. The MJ has handled the trip well, I did lots of 70+ freeway driving and a few hours of hucking it around the sweeping turns of the mountain state routes. I bet I surprised more than one person keeping up with them in far more modern vehicles. Lots of thumbs up from others on the highway and the folks at the customer I visited loved the truck too. Rolled over 282k miles. Even achieved fuel economy over entire tanks of 19.9, 21.4 and 22.4 mpg, of which I consider very good with the way I've driven.

I found these to be super easy to bleed, I let it gravity bleed for 15 minutes and my clutch was perfect.