pizzaman09

How does one access the pin to retain the trailer hitch.

I have precision seals in mine, probably for a 97+? They require me to slam the door, but so did my worn out original seals. At 280k miles the doors just don't close well, even after I rebuilt the hinges and aligned the striker. I'm happy with the seals though, they do run quieter than the original ones and don't leak like the old ones did.

Your probably on the right path looking at an old full sized Jeep or a modern Gladiator. Both would take different types of modifications to get what you need. The off road chops of a new Gladiator will be excellent out of the box but they have limited cargo capacity so you'd need to work more on dealing with your gear. An old J10 will have the capacity but smaller cabin and probably need more modifications to make it really good off road.

I've come to the conclusion that the older vehicles are just in poorer areas. I live near many depressed areas, there are plenty of 90s and 00s vehicles around that you'd never see in a more populated or higher income area. Go to central PA or southern tier NY, there's plenty of Buick Centuries and 90s Ford Explorers just being used as old daily drivers still.

Short Circuit and Short Circuit 2 Dirty Dancing Most Bond Movies Some classics like, To Catch A Thief, Castleblanca. Airplane Where Eagles Dare

That's really funny that someone called it a custom built Cherokee.

Finished polishing and waxing the MJ.

That looks like a typical GM starter. Kind of a weird design.

That is a beautiful bumper.

Assuming the transmission is the ZF 8 speed, it is an excellent transmission.

Very nice! In 2020 I test drove a brand new 2 door Wrangler, 3.6L with the 6 speed manual, it was a rocket! I was looking to test drive a manual Gladiator at the time but the only manual one the dealer had was sitting right in the center of their showroom, I didn't want to bother them to move it. I could see myself owning one, they are much more comfortable in the back seat than I expected.

Fully agree. I've towed some trailers that are well past the towing rating of these trucks. It amazes me how smoothly they handle load. Compared to anything else of the age, Comanches really drive well and don't often feel stressed. The one exception is they don't accelerate like modern vehicles, but if you accept that fact they do the job well.

I have not done cruiser's VC mod.

My first MJ, a 1988 model 4.0L, had a Banks exhaust header. Not sure what specific model as I know Banks offers a few different ones. It was very nice, definitely made more power than stock. I have no idea how it was to fit up but my understanding is you can make them fit on a Renix engine given some massaging.

A few extra pictures for clarity. 1/4" Vinyl tube fits over the plastic fitting on the rear of the valve cover. The tube also fits over the fitting on the intake manifold. I had drilled out the plastic fitting in the rear of the valve cover to 0.156.

If you can source a pedal, then it should be a bolt in arrangement. All you would need is the cable, I think it's the short bed one you need. The cable has a lot of flexibility and really just runs across the floor under the carpet to the same hole that the center console hand brake lever cable would run. I have seen a video of a guy that drag races an XJ who has swapped in a bench seat and a parking brake pedal.

Congratulations sir! Go enjoy retirement however you want!

I highly recommend the inductive heaters for bolt heads. They let you get pretty much just the nut hot instead of the whole area. I purchased one recently and it's a magic tool

For the probably 300miles I've put on it, perfect. That said I agree it might not be the correct tube, but I had a 30ft roll of the tubing so I might as well use it. I do have it zip tied to the fuel rail to prevent vibration from damaging it.

The orifice piece in the rear grommet just pulls out, shouldn't take too much effort, it is a lightly fit barbed fitting. I did not change out the fitting in the manifold. For both the valve cover and intake side, the original molded plastic pipe was small in diameter and slid into the fittings as the fittings were designed as a female connection for the small tube. It turns out the OD of both fittings are perfect for a 1/4" diameter tube to fit over them.

This is the best picture I have on me. I'm on a work trip and won't have availability to the truck until next week to get better photos. I think the white plastic piece comes pressed into the end of the factory plastic tube. It pulls off easily.

I do need to do a write up, but in short, I took the white plastic restrictor orifice in the rear of the RENIX valve cover and drilled it out to the largest diameter I could fit. Then I took a 1/4" diameter vinyl tube and ran it from the white plastic orifice piece to the intake manifold port, both of which are the right diameter on the OD for the 1/4" tube. It flows substantially more vacuum.

So I was going down the route you are proposing, I even purchased the exact catch came you have in the photo above. However before doing that I decided to increase the vacuum on my crank case by drilling out the restrictor orifice and running a 1/4" diameter line between it and the intake. This upgrade has completely fix my oil leaks, and has not effected idle.

Trailer hitch worked well at hauling around a fairly heavy enclosed trailer, not on the road of course.

Driving home yesterday, I found the ignition key was stuck in the run position and I could not turn the truck off. I pulled main coil wire at the distributor to shut it down and the battery ground to turn everything off. Ended up tearing out the steering wheel and putting a new ignition cylinder in. It was less challenging of a job than expected. Took the opportunity to clean and lubricate the turn signal mechanism that had a lot of crusty old grease on it.