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DirtyComanche

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Everything posted by DirtyComanche

  1. Nuts are supposed to be 1 time use and new shafts almost always come with them. I say "supposed to" because people reuse them all the time with no ill effect.
  2. Yes. Let me know if it works. When shimming the spring inside a very small difference in preload makes a significant pressure difference. I'd assume it will be similar if shimming it there.
  3. I don't know if it would work actually, you might have to turn the pressure down so much that it would be annoying at low speed, and I'm not sure if adding that much shim would keep the regulator functional or if it would just bypass all the time. A guy might need a new spring for that, which could be hard to source. The output fitting in the P/S pump has the pump pressure regulator behind it. You can take the fitting out the pump, it just takes a 13/16" socket or so, then fish out the regulator with a magnet, and then take the regulator apart by clamping it in a vice (use soft jaws, hose, etc to protect it) and undoing the cap off the end of it (1/2" wrench I think). There's a shim between the body and the cap of it sometimes, that's where you would add shim. Conversely, if you shim the inside of it (under the spring) you will increase the pressure. I had pictures of this somewhere. I've only ever turned them up, never down, so I don't know if it will change how things feel a lot. I don't really have data for stock(ish) applications. Normally I crank them up for people because they complain their oversized/badly scrubbing tires make the steering heavy/hard at low speed/in 4wd.
  4. You could also shim the regulator so the pump is only putting out 600-800 PSI. More than enough for maneuvering at low speed, but not a ton for the highway. Would only cost some time and a washer or two.
  5. Got 'em all over BC too. Running on flat is absolutely different than in the mountains. People need to accept that their gear shifting arm is going to get some exercise.
  6. There needs to be a certain amount of backlash or the gears may lock up. But no, not much.
  7. Pump noise or pump life? I'm guessing the second was more important. All modern pumps are protected by a ballast resistor or PWM, they do not want to be exposed to full running voltage for long periods of time, and their max output is not necessary for the function of the engine. It allows you to disable the vehicle by pulling the wires off it and slipping them under the harness. 98% of thieves will assume the vehicle is broken and not even look, since it will start and immediately die. Of the rest, well, most don't know what they're looking for.
  8. I leave them installed. I don't fully believe they were just there for noise. It is a very reliable part, and makes it easy to quickly disable the truck if need be.
  9. I have a WJ pump and it absolutely doesn't have EVO. It fits the HO brackets if you swap pulleys or mill the bracket, so I guess it should fit a Renix bracket. I don't know what your problem is. With the WJ pump and hydro-assist I'd say my steering is a little touchy at highway speed, which isn't really a surprise given the flowrate of the pump and the amount of force the assist will put out, but my less modded MJ with a factory Renix pump and box is not at all. I think something else is making you perceive it as touchy, such as other worn out components or a lack of caster. Edit, if the V8 WJ has some sort of EVO, it would be after the T fitting to run the hydraulic cooling fan. I didn't take any of those components when I removed the pump. The XJ/MJ hose will fit the WJ pump if you swap the output fitting with the orifice in it, so likewise if you wanted to run the WJ lines to get the EVO you could probably just use the fitting out of the WJ pump. The only reason the WJ pump is ported and of a higher displacement is that it has to run the cooling fan continuously. I don't think it's an upgrade that anyone would want unless they had hydro-assist steering, or perhaps hydroboost brakes, otherwise it's a solution looking for a problem.
  10. Revolution offers them, don't know who is cutting them or where. Dana didn't offer them for a reason. Regardless, that's only 10%~ lower.
  11. As Jeep Driver says, don't go peeling it open just because you think it might be bad inside. It likely isn't. Take a hose and flush the inside of the rails out, then have a look in there with a small inspection mirror or a borescope. Chances are things are fine. If they aren't you can then assess what should be done.
  12. Yeah, if you want worm clamps go fully stainless and get them from a hardware store. Most other places have crappy plated ones that will rust out or strip in a hurry. If you want spring clamps autoparts stores should have them, find a counter guy that knows what he's doing. I generally run worm clamps but admit that spring clamps are better in ideal conditions (new hoses and undamaged fittings). Buy a pair of Knipex Cobra Pliers to make removal and install of them easy.
  13. Probably the ground wire off the cluster chewed in two.
  14. Probably. I should have mentioned I torque them to standard as per the pattern, not whatever they spec. I think they changed the torque on the 4.0 ones 3 or 4 times over the years. Also I'm a 4.0 guy and didn't realize this is a 2.5 thread.
  15. Yeah, if you use the wrong wheels. He also has about 18" too much lift. Ford HPD60, GM 14 bolt, and 37" Toyos. Reason I didn't narrow the axle... There's no point. If I did you lose turning radius, which in the grand scheme of compromises being a little wider isn't a terrible trade off to be able to hit the steering stops. With the flares on it's still wide... But really not. That said, no, I wouldn't use a D44 front from a Dodge. Or at least I don't think I would. I don't know a lot about them as they're a newer unit bearing axle, not that there's anything really wrong with modern unit bearings, but if I was to go that route I'd go Superduty and be done with it. That sort of swap is a whole different story though, and for 35s isn't at all a good fit. Honestly swapping any front axle that does not have at least most of the brackets in the right place is an involving process. At least now there's some decent bracket kits to do it, although I believe they all have drawbacks and compromises.
  16. Regardless, I'd say none of these things really go hand in hand with big banks. Edit, I mean that in I think they picked a name that would sound like all of these things, without actually really pinning them down on actually being that.
  17. Why would they not be? The limitation on them is they use cheap seals so they won't hold up to most chemicals, nor can they exceed about 150PSI reliably. I'm guessing you're not going to be putting harsh chemicals through them or running anywhere near that much pressure. Oh, they don't flow that well either. If the fitting leaking will cause massive damage or kill all your turtles, you might want to do something else though, as like I said the seals they use are typically quite cheap.
  18. How many miles on your steering? It's single shear heims, no safety washers, I wouldn't run it. When they wear out they go fast, then they separate. Plus loading bolts in single shear like that is just asking for trouble, especially in the relatively soft knuckles. If the hole elongates, or is not drilled perfectly, which is likely the case, the bolt will loosen/lose preload, and break. TREs/DLEs use a tapered shank for that reason. TREs also have a larger crimp on the joint, meaning they will play up farther before separating, making it almost impossible to ignore before it comes apart completely. There's a reason no OEM uses a heim for steering or in that configuration, it's because it's wrong and unsafe. If you bracket the knuckles you can run them in double shear, but that's a lot of work for what it gets you. Not familiar with the Iron Rock kit because I don't buy things like that, but the D30 is weak all over the place and in ways that can't be addressed. The ring and pinion are the big show stopper, where the JK axle is 30% stronger due to the difference in the pinion size, bearings, and gear cut. Beyond that every other part of the XJ/MJ D30 is inferior or only on par with the JK version. I would not run around with stock sized brakes and 35s, thank you, and to throw larger brakes on an XJ/MJ D30 costs as much as a JK axle. Also, with 35s you need the width. Throwing low backspacing wheels on the stock axle "fixes" the problem but leaves you with a horrible scrub radius and extra loading on the already less than ideal ball joints and wheel bearings. I'm not going to tell you that something can't be done, or that it won't work, I'm telling you what should be done for it to actually be right. Which is a big disconnect with Jeep people.
  19. If you have to ask, it's probably a terrible idea, and you definitely should do it. That a J-truck box behind it?
  20. Since you already installed it, I'd suggest hitting the bolts with a torque wrench a couple times over the next week or two. Hopefully you did the initial install with a torque wrench and using the correct pattern. They should not come loose. I always put mine in with antiseize on them and they don't come loose. If you're talking about the collector flange nuts, I double nut them. Antiseize also.
  21. They put it there so it would be as effective as possible, given it's basically in the middle of the engine, since the vibration is somewhat dampened by the engine itself over farther distances. Newer engines use multiple knock sensors partly for this reason, along with to ensure some redundancy for the event of inevitable sensor failure. I think you could move it back, it might not be ideal but it probably wouldn't matter. If there's a convenient boss near the middle of the other side of the block, that might be a good option too. You could also do something super hack like welding a nut, with the correct metric thread, on to the side of the block somewhere in the middle... But you didn't hear me suggest that.
  22. I believe Eagle has often lamented on how his leaked from brand new, in 1988.
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