DirtyComanche

Yeah, a general vacuum leak check is a good idea. The intake manifold is a little notorious for issues.

If it ran nice before (do you trust him saying that?), then I'd start by checking the CTS, IAT, MAP, O2 for being ballpark right. I'd then check fuel pressure. If they all check out I'd pull the fuel rail and see if the injectors are dribbling. Is my troubleshooting the best? No. But it's what I'd do.

Back up to what was swapped over. And did it run right before the swap?

That's cool. Real good compromise for having it fit, a good upgrade for power, and still fuel efficient.

Funny to catch this thread right now. This is the last bottle of the grain free beer I made, and I'm killing it tonight so nobody else has to. Why grain free? It sounded good. Well, it isn't, as should not be a shocker to anyone who knows anything about beer. (I wish Costco could sell beer here, I would like to try it.)

I don't hate it. Honestly the slightly rounded lines of the JK/JL (versus the TJ/YJ/CJ/etc) are a fairly good match to the "boxy but not 100% boxy" that was the 97+ XJ. I'd drive it and enjoy doing so. I also DD a JKU as it is, so eh, maybe I'm already suffering from the effects of being hit in the head too much when I was younger.

95% done on the metal inside. The plumber needs to come finish some things so they can put the last 3 pieces on. Hopefully we get the doors on the end of this week or early next week, then the electrician will come by and get a bunch of stuff done. The electrician has been great, the plumber not so much, and the gas fitter has been MIA for quite a while now.

I will need to trim a few things a bit more, and remove a few smaller trees and one larger one that will die, but I wanted it set in the trees and not visible from the house/road/neighbours. I think it looks a lot nicer this way versus being in a gravel pit. Only downside to this is potential wildfire issues, but I will do a little more work on mitigation for that.

Thanks!

It looks nicer in person than it does in photos. I really like the red metal siding. Cost on it was... Yeah. Interior is coming along. They have started the metal on the upper part/ceiling, but I didn't snag a picture of it. The contractor elected to go with finish plywood, which is somewhat unfortunate as it is too nice. I trust his judgement but he errs on the side of nicer than not, which is great, other than I will cry when I scrape up the beautiful plywood.

This has been super slow, but here's the update. Roof done, siding done, wiring is roughed in, most of it is insulated, lots of other stuff still needs to be done.

What is the tow rating for that thing? Or is there one?

Duallys just look so awesome.

Or are they 3D printed CF? CF reinforced prints are pretty well standard stuff now. I agree if the file was available it would be nice to have made public. Watching SuperFastMatt stuff on the Youtoobs it is very apparent that a 3D scanner and a printer with decent capacity will absolutely change your world for making near factory (or maybe even better) quality parts easily.

I see they subscribe to the "undercoat covers all sins" theory of workmanship.

The EVs haven't reached enough market share for the "trickle down" (not a bad way to put it) to generally work out yet. There's other barriers, wrecks are often damaged more by overzealous firefighters or wreckers, insurance companies often demand some parts go to scrap instead of resale by recyclers, there is barriers in programming and modules that are unobtanium or suffer 100% failure rates, there is difficult rules on shipping used parts, etc, etc. That said there is something of a community for old/nostalgic EVs and/or swaps of older components. Teslas have by far the best past end of life/life extension support just because there was so many and they came with enough problems, along with that enthusiasts fixed a lot of things unofficially. A lot of the other options are just a bit too crappy for them to be mainstream, so it's pretty niche. Their first car, the Roadster, is highly sought after, and repairs for the battery modules/BCM/inverter/etc are well documented and available as commercial services. Nissan Leaf swaps into other stuff are somewhat common, lots of support for doing it easily. Currently someone found a GM EV1 and is in the process of restoring it with help from GM (interesting project but the YouTube videos they make are basically unwatchable due to not being edited down). There's a fairly robust community for the electric S10s they sold around the same time as the EV1, with guys upgrading the batteries and other components to make them actually drivable. There is people out there remanufacturing/repairing battery packs for a lot of stuff, but some things are just too weird to be overly feasible. It is like anything else and if your budget is large you can do anything; like guys convincing themselves that their LS swap will save them money by increased fuel economy and then buying a built engine that makes 600HP on pump gas, which the payoff on will be never but I fully support them doing it. At this point you can get a used Tesla Model 3 for cheap enough and keep it running with used parts that the math does work, on a beater versus beater type of equation. At least if you live in the contiguous United States and assuming you're charging it at home too. For me here, eh, maybe not so much.

To get the pan out you need to jack up the frame/body and set it on your jackstands and let the axle hang down. You may need to take the shocks off to get enough space, I don't recall, but with a 2"~ lift (and the longer shocks you'd have with it) it's very doable. Just loosen/undo the top mount on them if you need more space, then it's easy to put back together by just putting the weight back on the axles and tightening the top mount back up. You should not need to jack up the engine, leave it supported by the motor and trans mounts. I've personally always had good luck with the one piece pan gaskets.

If you're now getting spark you can try misting some gas into the throttle body and see if it will fire off. You may get it to go that way. Otherwise it's move on to checking timing, fuel pressure, that the injectors are firing, etc.

Slow crank reduces the voltage. There is effectively a minimum cranking speed to make a suitable signal for the engine to run. You need to address your slow crank before doing other things. If you have a jump pack or an extra battery try giving it some beans with that.

A - 55Ft-Lbs B - 70Ft-Lbs D - 27Ft-Lbs That's from the 89 FSM.

Yeah, it does make for a fun driving experience, especially paired with a manual transmission. It doesn't necessarily make for a practical powertrain. SUVs are not worse "in every way" compared with a minivan. There is tradeoffs. Most minvans have a dismal to nothing tow rating, while the right SUV can reasonably tow a lot of things (medium sized camper, small horse trailer, decent sized utility trailer, car trailer with a car or SxS/ATVs on it, etc) which can cover the towing needs of most people who sort of need a truck but are better off with more interior space. Minivans also tend to be objectively worse in extreme snow or mild "off road" compared with a real SUV. Even from a fuel economy standpoint it's often fairly much a tie. Power, well, go drive a Suburban with a 6.2L and tell me what minivan is going to do that. Minivans win on the door design, that is a fact. They win on being generally cheaper for the same thing. They will likely win on lower cost of ownership over their lifespan, at least if compared to a vehicle from the same brand. I debated buying a Ridgeline to DD. The wife said no more trucks, so I didn't. They're only hated by "real truck" enthusiasts. The new ones are ugly, yes. The tailgate design is idiotic, assuming they all come with a swing tailgate (like a Wrangler has), as it is the worst of all worlds for being inconvenient in a parking lot or garage and not allowing you to support something longer than the bed; it is a design that caters to the limp wrist type that bought a Ridgeline because he needs a "truck" to take 2 bags of mulch and a bag of potting soil home from HomeDepot twice a year. As to unified manufacturing... No. Competition breeds innovation. I do not want Ford's cam phasers combined with GM's AFM and Chrysler's plastic critical components, because that's probably what you would get with a room of executives and engineers deciding to cost reduce it the best they could with the options they have. Keep in mind the EV crowd said our ICE vehicles would have negative value years ago and that our EVs would be out actively making money for us while we weren't driving them, so I wouldn't count on EVs taking over the world for a while.

So, how did you find it?

Rockauto's shipping options are always good for a laugh. I've seen $1000+ options to get things across the border to me. That said, there is scenarios where you just might be that desperate.

Yes, that's what you want, but $82 seems steep. Swaybar end link is the more proper term for them, my post was unclear.

Sometimes the threads are stretched from the bar and link pounding against each other. So they will just break, nothing can be done to stop it. I would order new links and plan on changing them too, but that's me. Edit, a Mevotech link with bushings is around $11 USD on Rockauto (my pricing is in CAD and I convert back, but it's about that), so $22 would get you both links and you only need to buy the bushings that go around the bar.