DirtyComanche

It's a bit of a crappy situation. The 91+ cluster swaps over, which gives you the electric speedo, but you can't put the 84-90 fuel gauge in it. I think Hornbrod spent a bunch of time messing with this, but maybe it was someone else, but they did manage to glue/splice the different year range fuel gauges in by cutting out a large chunk of the cluster and putting a piece from a donor cluster in. So without that you're stuck swapping your fuel sending unit too, which I think is a really hard find. MTS may start making them, or may have made a few? Also, the cluster size is actually quite small, so most of the "normal" sized aftermarket gauges won't fit in it nicely. It's something I haven't solved because I'm wanting to run a diesel/universal tach and a 97+ fuel gauge in a cluster that looks good. So far I have no great ideas.

I think you're better getting a known good harness. Somebody will have one for sale, or maybe pull one from a yard for you if you pay enough. You could pull the harness you have and look it over the on the bench/repair it, but please don't be offended by this, from your post I suspect you wouldn't have a good time doing this. I'm curious what caused everything to go wrong to start with, you might want to try to figure that out so you don't have a repeat. Manual transmission leaking brake fluid from the clutch master cylinder? Ground issues? The headlights are known to burn up the dimmer switch and lots of people put relay harnesses in for this reason. You should probably post up the pictures so we can see if there's anything obvious that might have lead to this.

How did you press the new bearing on?

Hmm. I'll have to open it up. I'm guessing it's stuck, or not there. This is an XJ problem I'm having, of course I asked here since the tech knowledge is way better than any of the other places. It dumped out the front once and the rear twice now, so I'd like to solve it from doing from either end. Guess I'll add them to the list of things to snag from the boneyard too. Thanks Cruiser!

My XJ doesn't have one, that's all.

Where was it installed? By the reservoir? I see early Cherokees use the same pump front and rear, later ones have two different part numbers, so perhaps integrated in the pump?

So I'm having problems that when I'm extremely off camber that my wiper fluid siphons out of the reservoir. Or maybe it's not really even siphoning, it's just running out because the nozzle is lower than the reservoir. Did later pumps have anything to prevent this? Or is there valves that could be installed that will prevent it? Or is this problem unique to me because I am using a product in a manner it was never intended? It's annoying because I lost all of my wiper fluid the last time I was out, and it would have been nice to have some.

I decided to buy a Euro inspired head unit because reasons. It uses a different antenna connect. Metra 40 I believe is what it is called. So, what's the MJ/XJ connector? GM 10 was one suggestion I heard.

Really sorry to hear it. I'm admittedly not a dog guy, but the lab/retriever crosses I've run into have always been super friendly, energetic and very personable dogs. Definitely easy to get attached to. You gave him a good loving home, and some great years, cherish that and remember him for being a great companion.

I'd figured that out when I checked the links. I think I meant to put a link to a different spring when I made the post, hence my comment that one of the links was wrong. That was 4 years ago though, so, eh, I ain't perfect. My advice is worth exactly what people pay for it, sometimes less.

Links still work for me, although one of them is actually wrong. ZJ springs are Moog P/N CC782. Control arms are MOOG RK640773 and MEVOTECH CMS20425.

Nothing currently I don't think, because I haven't been looking. But www.diyelectriccar.com often has stuff come up for sale in their classifieds. EVWest sometimes will sell things like that too. And you can watch for them with the wreckers using whatever for that (carpart.com I think is a big one).

Direct mounting the motor to the tcase is difficult for use in a truck, as a truck. Most of the motors don't have a great efficiency curve for it and want to run at too high of RPM, at least of the AC motors. DC tend to prefer the lower RPMs, but won't have the jam to be useful in a truck without gear reduction, and then don't make enough top end to run highway speeds if you run the tcase in low range. Guys do it, but the results are meh. Plus DC is only good if you're really trying to do a cheap build, as you can't use it for regen/engine braking. Keeping the transmission, even if you only ever use 2 or 3 gears, seems to just work out a lot better with most of the motors on the market. A smaller/lighter 3spd tranny from an older jeep/truck might be ideal, but I didn't do any numbers on it. You're kinda stuck in you don't want to have a clutch, but you do sort of need one to shift because the rotating mass of the motor is really hard on synchros without one. It's been done both ways, but nothing seems ideal. Finding high enough gears for your axles is what limits turning the Tesla drive units sideways and using them that way. If it's a crawler it works fine, but way too low for street use. Lots of smaller buggies were built using FWD car engine/transaxle sets configured that way. You can pull the Tesla drive units apart and use the motors/inverter without the rest of it, but I've not seen any that were done to a standard that was capable of being suitable for daily use. Honestly if the Tesla drive units had multiple gears they probably would be a bunch more efficient, and I'm curious what they will do in the "Cybertruck" POS they're going to maybe start delivering in 2130. Really it's a case of just waiting to see what government subsidies develop and using whatever works and becomes cheap.

Nice that they're offering it, but I don't know if it's a good enough deal to go that route. Honestly the electric vehicles seem easy, as long as you're willing to accept marginal results. You could do a simple DC motor conversion and use Leaf or Bolt batteries and be into it for only $5000~ max. A Matzilla controller will do that and you're pretty reliable with not much else save an electric vacuum and P/S pump. Put the battery in the box and you don't even have to modify it, totally hack but it gets you going. If you want something better you're really stuck as far as what way to go. Tesla drive units are made for a car, period. I don't know what they're planning to do in the truck, or if it actually will ever hit the market, but if they're using the same basic drive units then it's worthless. Everything else is far enough behind in power that you might as well just buy an actual race/performance motor, like a Hyper-9 or whatever, and buy or build the adapter. That's all assuming you want a 4wd truck, otherwise just use a Tesla rear drive unit and the horrible Tesla IRS, it will work. My tentative "plan" if I was to go electric in an MJ would be a battery box where the gas tank is, and another on the other side, and one where the spare tire goes. There's enough cubes there to get you maybe 150 miles of range, given how bad aero and rolling resistance would be. If you want more it's going to get a lot harder. But like I said, that's a long time down the road. So I'm not thinking about it too much because everything will change in the next few years.

I had a chance to buy an R2.8 for well under list and passed. At the time it was very unclear if it would fit in the XJ/MJ chassis and if the emissions systems would fail or could be removed. I have no idea how many they have sold or if there is any programming available for them now, but I was very leary of what might turn into something that would be unworkable.

I'd do a TDI over the factory diesel. To start my current project over I would go TDI.

I realized I need some ubolts to do my rear axle swap and for my Ford Trailero, so I'm going to put them in the card. I've got until sometime next week to figure this out anyway.

That's boring. What if you're going to treat yourself?

Not in stock for my application. It was the first thing I thought of.

So say you had $150 in Summit Bucks for Summit Racing, and they're about to expire. What would you buy right meow?

The design principle of the Torx is that you don't need pressure on it to stop it from camming out. If the bit is in straight and fully seated, and the torque is applied only in the correct direction, and it is undamaged, it will not cam out. I used to hate them until I realized how they work. Clean them out, use the correct bit (and not some 10 cent junk you got from Mao's Candyland either), make sure it's seated, apply the torque correctly. You will snap the bit off before camming it out or rounding the fastener. OP is still at the point he probably has to remove the fender, and should just to avoid making things worse. Things are going downhill rapidly for him. I'd try a rounded bolt extractor, then probably just get annoyed and weld a nut on to it. One might be able to get it turning with a cold chisel and a hammer too. Eh, I don't know, not getting in this situation is the ideal solution.

Does the shaft have any machining defects on the splines? It might be what is stopping it. Or they may not have splined it far enough down the shaft.

Looks like you've got firewood now.

So I bought an '88 Cutlass Supreme. I used to have an '87. Nostalgia hit me. And I wanted something fun to drive for the summer, given that my Comanche won't likely get to that point with all the other things I've had going on. Originally I was eyeing up a '72 Buick Riviera, but it was $5000 more and turned out to be quite the bondo princess, then I got sad and impulse bought this instead. Plan is to do as little to it as possible. It needs some interior pieces put back in, the rear window sealed, some trim put back on, new wiper blades, and the oil changed. It looks way better in pictures than it actually is. Drives nice though.

Something else is wrong then. It should be just roasting them.