DirtyComanche

It's probably what I'm going to do then. I likely could just get away with leaving it, but yeah... Rather not.

Next question... If I drill the threads out of my captive nuts, can I tap to 7/16 UNC? It looks like there's lots of meat there. The issue I've had that leads to this is that the threads in some of them are not great. A stud is better for this scenario in that as long as you put it in correctly it will never wear the threads out more, hence why I was just going to use them and call it good. I'm taking the crossmember on and off multiple times as the whole drivetrain has been in and out and whatnot a bunch.

So, just in case anyone searches and finds this, do not use those Dorman studs. I ordered them without being able to see them, so you get what you get, and it's not acceptable for this application. There is no stampings on them to indicate strength, and the package labeling is very generic but calls them a "Grade 5". A grade 5 is more or less equivalent to 8.8, which is okay, but not ideal, but since there is no such thing as a metric grade 5 fastener the whole thing is highly suspect. Each end: Packaging: I didn't check if the nuts were brass or not. They are black, but there is a hard black coating used on brass (I assume it's an oxide coating) that looks similar to that. Regardless, the package is just generic BS from what I'd guess. But the real damning thing is the thread form: I'm guessing this thread is used for applications where there is extreme heat cycling as it would allow the fastener to expand and contract more without stressing it. I could be totally wrong about that, as I'm not familiar with this thread form. I do believe it is intentional as I ordered two packages and they are all like this. Regardless, it is not a proper load bearing thread as it is rolled with a very narrow crest and a wide root. I would not trust this stud in any sort of application where the failure of it would ruin your day.

You got me there, I was thinking about newer ones for some reason. Probably because I've been trying to rid my life of steel gas tanks.

The Cherokee one is quite different because it goes into the top of the tank on them. Likewise the Cherokee tank is a totally different shape (it goes behind the rear axle). A Cherokee sender does not fit in a Comanche tank without some significant surgery, and a Cherokee tank doesn't fit where the Comanche tank is. Sooooo, I'd say it probably isn't.

Then it needs an overflow bottle. And all the other hoses to get hooked to something or plugged. Lots of closed system Jeeps running around with open system radiators. You can just block the overflow or use a cap without pressure relief.

I was hoping to find a used one but I'm not taking that chance. So I guess that's one less now. They'll probably wind up looking at the sudden influx of orders and do another run.

Your missing your CCV "harness" too. The vent thing from the engine and other vacuum lines. Also, not sure what's up with your charcoal canister. That's not where it normally lives.

Personally I wouldn't bother to do it. However, the book says they're both 27 spline, and Dana really only uses one spline profile* on anything modern, so there is a very high likelihood they're both the same size. There is potential for other issues, such as the stub length being wrong, or the shoulder diameter being different, which isn't data that appears to be readily published. JK axles went to a larger (30 spline) hub and outer, as I recall it, which would likely be the cause for confusion if nothing else is different. Also, my source info can be wrong. I had actually researched this to some extent as is was one of the ideas I'd had for the front axle for my current build, and there was some evidence that it had been done and worked. Then I realized it was stupid idea anyway as I really wanted the increased width of the WJ axle. Then I realized the WJ axles are low pinion and decided the whole thing was not worth pursuing, but there is WJ people that have swapped in HP center sections in what could only be described as pure insanity. *I may eat that in that JL axles, along with the latest Superduty stuff, may not use the same spline profile as the standard Dana spline pressure angle isn't efficient and there was effectively free strength gains to be had by changing it, but they hadn't done this by the time of the WJ. Dana tends to make only incremental changes and not redesign everything as a block, unless there is a distinct reason too. The JL axles appear to have been a complete redesign, whereas the latest Superduty stuff has significant changes with Ford changing their requirements regularly.

This. It goes to the console and lights up the shift bezel if you have one.

Yeah, the factory bolts would have only been a 10.9 at best. They don't have a stamping on the head that I'm used to though, I think it's just a letter F. I think I'll just order a set of those Dorman ones and see if they work.

Anyone have a good (not junkyard) source for the studs that are used to locate the transmission crossmember? Dorman 03124 seems to be the right size, and they're stamped as a 10.9.

The CV axle thing doesn't matter, or shouldn't. You can run the ZJ CVs in an XJ/MJ axle. The WJ ones should still fit either hub, just they're obviously not the right length (WJ axle is wider). I'm guessing he probably used the whole knuckle out assembly... At least that's likely what I would have done, assuming you wanted the steering option too.

None anymore. There used to be a young guy (had a N, so new license) that had one that wasn't too badly beat up. I'd see him fairly regularly. I kept trying to catch him so I could give him my info if he wanted to sell the truck, but never did, and haven't seen him (well, the truck, I couldn't pick him out of a lineup) in months. I never asked the guy I sold my green one to what happened to it. I don't really want to know. I was getting sent pictures of it for a while. I keep peeking in the yard down the road to see if the older guy there still has one. It was way in the back and the yard is fenced, but he definitely used to have one that was sitting back there.

"It's a bold move Cotton, let's see if it pays off."

I agree $500ish max. I mean, feel them out, if you show up with a trailer and a case of Natty Light, you might not need pay anything.

The Renix harness is really simple and can normally be deloomed, inspected, and repaired over a weekend of poking at it and doing other things. Or you can get a junkyard one, which may or may not need work itself. There is nothing from the aftermarket that I'm aware of. Where did it melt? Take it apart and see how bad it is.

Build both or sell one to somebody who will. Neither of those should be parted out.

Also, those might not be KK wheels, I was told they might have come off a Compass or something. So, if you're going to buy random wheels and assume they fit because they say Jeep on them, maybe measure the hub bore and the bolt pattern.

Another video of basically zero technical content, poor editing, and gags that aren't funny: Takeaway is: -The JK MP241 transfer case really doesn't fit, but that's a combination of issues. I'm probably going to drill the transmission tail housing to the XJ/MJ clocking, since it's a TJ trans, and then live with however that works out. This will wait until the next time I pull the engine/tranny back out. -I have to work on the front axle/oil pan/suspension before getting hung up on anything else. -I don't remember how I was going to make half this project work.

If anyone would be so kind as to post any random pictures they have of the Iron Rock Offroad 3 link long arm front suspension installation, it would be appreciated. My application is very custom, but it looks like it may fit. If it does, I'd rather just buy it than build it, as quite frankly I've already got way too many things to do on this Comanche without making my own front long arm kit. However, I really can't tell from the few pictures on their website nor what I found Googling. Thanks a bunchly.

You need an AX-15 crossmember, mounting plate, and mount from an XJ. The mount itself is a wear part, so just buy a new one. You can butcher or make the other parts if you need to, but that's assuming some fabrication ability. Also, the tailhousing on the TJ tranny is drilled to the wrong clock angle for your tcase, it may (probably) hit the floor.

The B doing some mining construction/exploration work:

Ski job I was on years ago: Flying over the Canol Trail (Canol pipeline) in the NWT: Like I said, I don't normally take pictures, so I have very few.

Towing an airplane: Another shot from inside, somewhere in the Yukon: