DirtyComanche

Any auto parts store, Summit, Speedway, Jegs, Amazon, or any of the scumbag Chicom distributors (besides Amazon). The quality does vary a bit. Pico makes okay ones. The genuine ones are made by Delphi, but they're harder to find and more money (the GM dealer will have them). A pack of pins for them from Pico is a few bucks from my local auto parts store.

Those are standard GM Weatherpack connectors. They're an obsolete connector in the OEM world, but were used in millions of vehicles for a couple decades. What I'm getting at is you can buy the pins/connectors/tools for them everywhere and for very little money. If that pin is that mangled then likely the mating pin on the engine harness is as bad. You should consider replacing them as it might be causing the no start, and it would be a very inexpensive fix. Also, if the engine harness pin is mangled, a new CPS likely won't fix it.

Ah yes, Rankin, another armpit of the world.

Is there a dump/scrap area there? Lots of those places have an area where things just get dragged to when they're done with them. They might still be somewhere there. If I'd spent more time in Baker Lake I would have tried to arrange getting that MJ backhauled out of there. It really was in decent shape.

I think about it and considered adding a roll cage/5 point harnesses. There is some issues with doing that, but you could probably improve survivability by a fair amount. But then I haven't bothered to put a cage in my XJ that I wheel... So, umm, maybe that should be the priority over a MJ that doesn't run/drive.

I'd look at JK/JL or WK or other late model Jeeps with 5x5. Some of that stuff might work, or be made to work.

Exactly. The OEMs tried to get away with it using the caliper with the integrated mechanical parking brake, and it just didn't work right. Hence it had a short production span for the Cadillacs, and same for the Isuzu, and same for any of the other examples out there (there is a handful more, and they are all as equally obscure). They then mostly went to the "drum in hat" or a similar version of parking brake, as it proved to be much more reliable. The only reason you can buy the Cadillac calipers is that there was so much demand from people trying to use them for rear disk brake conversions that it made sense for somebody (using a factory in China) to put them back into production. There is a slightly better fully aftermarket version of them in the 4x4 aftermarket scene, I forget who makes them, but they're a lot more expensive and they still will fry the brake pads if used regularly. The drum brake design works really well and lasts nearly forever as a drum in hat parking brake, so we've seen probably 30-40 years of it being used. Now the push is to go to an electric parking brake, as the drum is something of a waste of hardware. However, the OEM is looking at it from the perspective of producing millions of them over the lifespan of a vehicle's production, versus us with a "not wanting to bolt that on there" sort of mentality, they have the chance to save a significant amount of money in the long run so it is worthwhile to do the R&D for an electric setup. The electric setup also saves even more money in there is no cables, no pedals or handles, and it can just be straight up integrated into the CANBUS architecture to automatically engage or disengage, and so on. I suspect this will be the logical future for swaps once suitable caliper(s) are found, as the DIYer can just make most of them work with a toggle switch and (optional) indicator light. I hate raining on the parade of someone who is already invested in something, but there's also something to be said for making someone aware of an issue before they get farther invested into it.

Just a warning about those calipers. Lots of guys wind up junking them and running the equivalent front caliper and ditching the parking brake feature. They like to seize up and eat brake pads and rotors. That's an inherent issue with their design, and the Isuzu calipers that are similar do the same thing. I've been on and off looking for something that uses an electric parking brake caliper as it should be a more reliable option long term.

That "kit" is just over $10 on Rockauto (I'm guessing conversion because mine shows in funny money), under Standard Motor Products P/N HK7. You can also grab a Standard Motor Products SK9 for a kit of 12 orings for the injectors for another $7. If you don't like Rockauto you should be able to get them from other retailers as that's a fairly generic brand. I swear Dorman makes them too, but you'd have to look in their catalog probably. Dorman 800-016 is the same part, but for bigger (5/16" and 3/8") lines.

There's lots of them in that form factor, I just linked the first one that popped up.

Can't really help you with that, but how about one of these style radios? https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Round-Waterproof-Marine-Stereo/dp/B01178KZ94/ref=sr_1_3?crid=35RNH94APC51N&keywords=round+marine+radio&qid=1678040845&sprefix=round+marine+%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-3

Super important, because I don't know if you can buy them. Dorman sells the clips I believe. If they're at all crunchy, replace them, because having the line pop off because the clip fails will quite possibly end in burning your truck down.

Whoever turned in that Ford Galaxie deserves to spend some time in Gitmo. I am not a Ford fan by any means, but that's an absolute shame.

You have a 4wd Comanche rear driveshaft for your engine/trans/tcase combination already? Personally I would say to try installing it and see, but if it is too long and bottoms out in the tcase, you will destroy the tcase or other things, so if it is too long do not say "Eh, close enough" and drive it. If the shaft is too long it is normally fairly economical to take them to a driveshaft shop and have them cut it down and balance it. If it's too short it tends to cost a lot more, as they will need a new piece of tubing.

For the electrical connectors it might be easier to fish the lock springs off of them with a pick first. Then you can wiggle the connector off without fear of breaking anything if the lock pops back in. It's what I normally do with them, just don't lose the locks. I don't think you have to undo that bracket for the FP regulator buuuuuuut... I'm not sure, and I put a HO intake/rail on my current one. Soak both ends of the injectors with WD-40 to make it easier to get them wiggling so you can pull it all apart. The orings on them will glue themselves in place and make it seem like it is still bolted when it isn't. Change all the orings when you get it apart. If you reuse any of them it is asking for leaks. I lube them all with a little WD-40 or silicone oil before assembly. Make sure everything is clean too, no corrosion or burrs, you don't want to cut any of the orings on reassembly.

Please post the results. I would like to know. I have a YJ tank I was planning to use but I'm not sure it will fit either.

It was in the right place on the Renix, why are you moving it?

Any amount of lift has ramifications to how the suspension and the rest of the truck works. 3" is going to require a bunch of new parts in order to be made to drive decently. Perhaps you just want to replace worn stock components to restore the original ride height and quality?

I'll have to look at this later. We have NVGs at work, they're quite impressive.

This is a S-10 cap. As you say, works well, but not quite right.

The motor is indexed wrong. Take it off with the wipers where they are, then move the wipers to the parked position, then put it back on.

And a slight correction to your OP, the Peugeot (and early AW4, and 2.5L and 2.8L transmissions) use a 21 spline output, not 22. In case you wind up resorting to counting teeth on junkyard tcases. In your case it's probably easier to just find a whole tcase. It doesn't have to be from an XJ, later YJ and TJ options work too, along with probably many others. I see them for sale for $100-200 regularly.

That tcase is definitely junk. I wouldn't use anything out of it if at all possible, and certainly not the input gear. 23 spline input gears are pretty easy to find. You can use a Jeep or a Dodge one. Just be cognizant that the gear cut changed in 94/95 and you have to use the correct one or the planetaries will explode.

I made my own linkage from scratch. It was about a 1/10 for difficulty for a fabrication job. Just a small piece of flat bar cut to make the tab on the tcase side, some rod end bearings, threaded rod cut to the right length, and some other hardware.

At this point I'm going to keep watching the classifieds and try to find a used professional version. Failing that, buy the Stihl/Husky I put in the OP. Talking to more people about it, the consensus is you will kill anything less than that in short order. Also, if I have a good one, I can lend it out and avoid having to use it myself as much. I'm not the only guy who wants to clear these trails.