DirtyComanche

If I remember tomorrow I'll see what I can do.

Looks like they didn't set the clearance right on the main bearings to begin with. Also, what oil and filters have you been using?

Just some friendly life advice from somebody who has been there. Don't pull 25 hour shifts, especially not if you're operating dangerous equipment or working on critical devices. After 18 hours you're fatigued enough to be equivalent to what is considered legally intoxicated. It will get worse from there. We had a young guy stuff the loader bucket through our hangar door right after Christmas. Had to get the prybars and the sledgehammers out to straighten it enough to open, and had our air ambulance offline until we could do so. He had been plowing snow starting the afternoon before and then continued all through the night. I'm pretty happy he only hit the door, and that we managed to get it working before missing a call. I've also done some incredibly stupid things as the direct result of fatigue.

Broken off clutch fingers can give you noises like that too... But normally you have other clutch issues when that happens. It really is a matter of trying to isolate the noise, along with examining the contents of the oil pan and filter. The filter is easy to start with, soooo....

I use one at work. I could snag a picture if you want the next time I'm in there, but honestly it looks just like a regular desktop "office" setup. Just I plug my laptop into the dock instead of having an actual computer tucked away. I have a wireless keyboard and mouse to keep the clutter down, but there's a printer, monitor, speakers, mic (sometimes) all plugged into the dock. Do you want a M$Paint drawing? I'm really good at those.

No idea. Probably an inch or so.

I'd be investigating the failure more before proceeding.

My situation is I have a TJ transmission and it's mounted stupid high in the trans tunnel to try to keep the engine high. This means I'm having a lot of trouble getting the transfercase I intended to use to fit, or for that matter the one I didn't intend to use (a bog standard NP231). I was just going to cut the floor and make it work, but it seems I'm going to have trouble with seats if I do that. Redrilling the tailhousing to the standard clocking is a common solution. Has anyone seen any failures associated with doing so? It's pretty Swiss-cheesed after you do this, assuming you don't weld up the old holes.

Too bad. I'd snatch it up if it was above the 49th.

Which side of the border are you on?

True, if he has a D30 he will break everything in it first. I personally don't subscribe to the "fuse" concept. I'd rather not break. But that's me, running one tons and 37s in an underpowered slug.

It's the same 27 splines regardless.

The front output is the weak link.

I don't think so, at the very least you need an output shaft for the 31 spline Ford input. I'm running a NWF Ecobox, and it's meant for the 205. I wasn't really suggesting you do it, it's a stout setup but very heavy and big. Plus you have to cut part of the case off the 205 and weld a plate in it. And make shifters, an extra mount (the weight issue) and it uses a different style speedo gear/drive, etc, so there's lots of things about it that aren't exactly ideal. That said, it does have fixed yokes from the factory, no SYE required.

Where abouts are you in the land of Oz?

Personally I'd find a NP241DLD or something like that for the rear tcase. But the SYE for it will be more money, if you can get one without making it yourself. I just don't think the 231 is strong enough for that use. However, lots of people have done it and all that, so eh, what do I know. If I was to do it I would absolutely run a SYE. I'm running a NP205 as the rear case in my XJ personally, and while I like it I don't know if I would do it again. Doublers are awesome unless you just run mud, sand, or easy trails. For a rear driveshaft I'd just call Tom Woods or High Angle or JE Reel or whatever. They all build good stuff for minimal money, and this would definitely be the preferred option as they will do it right the first time. Or, I'd lengthen (honestly you might not even need to, there might be one that long) an XJ front shaft because I'm really cheap, and then be upset when it failed and took out a bunch of other stuff. For the front shaft I'm not really sure, I don't recall what I'm using in the front of my XJ, but the 205 keeps the front shaft a lot shorter, so it might well just be another XJ or other Jeep shaft. Sorry to give you a useless answer.

I switched to a NG tankless a few years ago. I love it. Direct vent, 98% efficient. There is no delay in getting hot water out of it versus a regular tank unit. If you have hot water in your lines all the time with a tank unit then it isn't installed correctly. Never had any fault codes or shutdowns or anything like that. I need to run vinegar through it one of these days... Yes, you should do maintenance on them.

What's the P/N on them? I'm going to say probably not, likely they flow the wrong rate.

On the EV truck thing, adding additional battery modules to a trailer is great and all that, but the cost/benefit analysis for them would be poor for most people. Most people don't actually take their trailers that far on a regular basis, they make a few long trips with it sitting most of the time, or they make more frequent short trips. So, lots of cost for minimal use. Now, that said, it could be a great option for the right person. One would need a suitable electrical interface for the tow vehicle though, and there would be some challenges making such an interface robust, idiot-proof, and safe. Plus it would need to work with the tow vehicle, which could lead to some interesting BMS stuff, but that's easy enough to solve if there is a unified standard. Tesla would probably use some weird plug nobody else does, and you'd have to pay them a monthly fee for it to work. Don't worry though, that Elon guy is a genius and going to save humanity.

Not close at all. XJ/MJ is 71.5mm or 2.81" hub bore, KK is 67.1mm or 2.64". So almost 3/16" different. It baffles me they went to a smaller hub bore after years of it being the same, but that's FCA. I'm not intending to run this setup long term, or maybe at all at this point. But if you're going to use non-precision machining to open the hub bore up, make sure you go a little extra so it isn't contacting. The wheel has to become lug centric, you don't want your sloppy die grinder work causing it to seat off center.

So after 7 months of not touching this thing (I think) I finally did something. I put the wheels/tires I bought in August on it. The ones I bought so I could "just get it driving" before summer ended. Yes, I decided I just wanted to get it together enough to drive in 2wd, just to make sure the engine would be happy and then I could move on to replacing the axles. So, what's super amusing about this is that the wheels I bought are off a Jeep Liberty, and were ID'd as being a suitable year (2012 I think) to fit the XJ/MJ axles. They aren't. The hub bore was too small, so they're from a 2014 probably. Of course I'd already had the tires mounted, and didn't feel like taking them back off, or paying to do that, so properly machining the hub bore out was not really in the cards. So I just took them oversized with a die grinder. This simple act of just bolting some new wheels and tires on wound up taking 3 hours because of that. Anyway, hopefully I have some more time and can get a little momentum going on it.

There's only 2 or 3 main manufacturers. They're then all rebranded. If one cares to Google you can find out who makes what. I buy whatever is sitting on the tested good rack and the junkyard, fits, and has a recent date code. Hence I never answered the original question, because that's not really solid advice, but $20 for a battery is $20 for a battery.

I've noticed most (maybe all) of the Renix XJ/MJs I owned did this. I just assumed it's because the filter is oriented the wrong way from the factory and to not worry about it. Gravity is always going to win over time.

I think you should determine why they're dying first. Any lead acid battery (AGM and spiral cell included) will not live if it's being poorly charged or over discharged. As m2bandit said, check for parasitic draw. Also check your charging voltage is high enough, and not too high, and that the charge cable and feeder limiter (umm, fusible link? I forget what they're called in automotive) that's built into the cable is not damaged. Make sure you connectors are good, and your big starter cable and ground cable are good and the contact areas are clean.

That certainly makes sense. At the price point you can expect they had to cut corners somewhere, so the arms may be quite thin. The flex joints at least look like they could be swapped out for any competing joint, such as a Johnny Joint. The lift probably would be adequate for a lot of users, who are more on the street or the odd dirt road, but probably should be discounted for anyone looking to seriously wheel.