DirtyComanche

I remember the username, that's going back a while, he was a friendly and helpful person. My condolences to you and your family, and thank you for stopping in to tell us.

Snow shoveling gets so many people. It's harder work than you remember. Take care of yourself.

You're way better off using the HO TB, intake, fuel rail, etc, and then adapting the Renix TPS.

How about by starting with some pictures? I've never seen the inner parts of it.

I don't know. Google. Look at the P/Ns on Rockauto. Ask people that have done things. Etc. Pirate has a lot of good info if you're willing to look, but some of it is dated now. Most of the time you can find enough basic info about something to make a list of further questions and either go ask somewhere or slowly Google them away. The OP of this thread should read this from start to finish: https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/735270-5-3-jeeps.html It's interesting because the understanding of the swaps evolved a lot in the 11 years.

Yes. Also wouldn't suggest it unless you were doing an electric "EV" conversion.

Also, for the OP, I'd pick up a GM NV3500 over an adapter to an AX-15. Then find a suitable GM tcase, a 241 from a 4L80E truck would probably work (don't quote me, I think the NV3500 used a 27 spline output actually and the 4L80E uses a 32, you may have to steal the input gear from whatever came with the transmission). The NV3500 is a better tranny than the AX too, snychro'd is all gears and meant to survive behind a 4.8L (wasn't offered with the 5.3L but would handle it fine. A 6.0L and abuse would not likely end well). There's some potential issues with this setup but they're all easy to solve. Factory everything that way. You want a speed sensor and a hi-low switch too, hence the GM tcase, as the "LS" tunes need correct VSS input to function correctly. Most hack tuners delete the VSS input (Novak does this) and it will quite likely produce some odd running issues when the vehicle comes to a stop or is moving slowly with minimal throttle input. The more factory parts that were mostly meant to be bolted together that you use the better it will be in the long run.

Sure. Let's look at what they have to say about the NV4500. The NV4500 isn't a great transmission for all applications, but it is a good choice for some. Probably not something anyone here wants though, but I've dealt with them a bunch so we'll go with it. Whole article below, no need to read it. What we need to know before we even get into it. They don't make adapters for the NV4500. Hence they aren't interested in saying anything good about it. The main reason they don't make adapters for it is because you don't need an adapter for many applications you'd likely use it for, so they wouldn't sell very well. AA also completely beat them to the punch on this and dominated the market for the applications that do need an adapter. I'm not going to pick the whole thing apart, that would take way too long. To break it down by parts: Ah. You've completely missed the fact that it has ANOTHER gear. Why would that be important? Because it means the split between the ratios is less, meaning you can actually keep the engine somewhere near the powerband when shifting. Granted, the NV4500 has less than ideal splits, but it certainly is way better than the HD 4-speeds they'd love to sell you an adapter for. And compared with a 3 speed it's night and day. Also it isn't mentioned at that point that the synchronized nature of 1st gear (and reverse on the later versions) means you can shift into those rather useful gears as hell of a lot easier on the fly. It's not 1986 anymore. We aren't building 82" wheelbase Jeeps. Yes, it's big, no, it's not that big. It is the same height as the SM420/465 or NP435 that you're going to tout as being the better option. If you had to mod your trans tunnel for the NV4500, you'd have to for one of those. There was one on Marketplace for $250 a few days ago. I paid $600~ (converted) for one. They're common now. Not rare. You can still buy them new, and that actually is a plus. Good luck buying any transmission new for much less money. No, just no. Behind a 1000ft-lb diesel they break, yes, behind a gasser they don't... They imply that a NP435 or SM465 would actually survive that reliably and for as long. They won't. It's been proven. Plus there is updated parts to fix these issues if you are using them in that application. But why mention that? Again, no. Here is what AA sells to bolt it to a Jeep engine: https://www.advanceadapters.com/products/712553--dodge-nv4500-to-jeep-258--v8-bellhousing-adapter-plate-kit/ They want $285 for it. Yes pilot bushings suck (Novak uses them too), but $285 is in no way expensive or complicated. Would use stock clutch linkage. I have no idea what they think is so hard about this. You can then bolt a Jeep Tcase to it if you swap the input gears. Again, what is so hard or expensive about that? Likewise AA has a bunch of fairly inexpensive adapters to put just about anything else behind it; I used their NP205C adapter with one in my plow truck. Wrong. They got to 1-1/4" input shafts in later production. That is relevant because the 10 spline 1-1/8" is the same as a Jeep clutch, but the later 1-1/4" isn't. Here is the LuK clutch with specs for such a variant: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4696164&cc=1377569&jsn=1903&jsn=1903 Oh, so earlier on you said they have multiple gearing options. Then you don't include it here? Length also varies depending on input variant. Anyways, my point is that they present "factual tech" with a pretty serious slant to their product line. There is some more blatant errors in some other the other stuff, while the NV4500 piece is more an opinion piece.

And I'm going to say it now so I don't have to keep saying it. Their tech is wrong. They know 80% and base everything on that. You need to know more to have the right answer though. Don't treat what they said as gospel, it isn't, it's the result of not knowing and tailoring the answer to the products they sell.

They make some okay stuff. Their motor mounts for an LS in an XJ/MJ are terrible. Their tuning is so bad you might as well just not bother. Their radiator for that swap is a $100 Chinese Ebay radiator that's been repackaged.

Not interested in really reading the thread. Novak sells crap parts and has incorrect tech. Keep that in mind.

Or dual motors.

You may not need to change the clocking, assuming you're okay with some of the issues caused by that. It will fit, but it's super close to the floor, so most guys do a little massaging on it. The tcase linkage also might need some fiddling. Otherwise just drill the adapter housing. Instead of that jig you might be able to borrow a D300/NPwhatever clocking ring and use it to transfer punch the holes. Or just lay it out conventionally or by using a paper pattern. The hole tolerance doesn't have to be that amazing. You can also buy the adapter housing new: https://www.allstategear.com/AX15-Adapter-Housing-p/4636372.htm (Look around for a better price, they still make the AX-15 so the parts are all out there)

Has anyone heard of them, used them, seen them, tasted them, been accosted by them? https://www.sherpa4x4.com.au/collections/4wd-winches They are an upside down kangaroo riding company, but they distribute in the US and Canada (free shipping in either I believe), and they make some interesting products. Real world info and experiences is lacking, even when I search as an Aussie.

How much does it snow there and how much is she plowing and what is the terrain like? I'd destroy that thing in about 20 seconds with the amount of snow I get... Those are meant for clearing an inch of light snow off a paved driveway or small parking lot, and not doing it in a hurry at that.

I doubt it was taking much in the way of resources to maintain them. They also likely forgot about them too.

I see stock under Centric 30358016. I'm sure if I looked around I could find it under the Bendix P/N. They are in production either way, although I'm sure they only make them in batches.

There's only two currently in production that I'm aware of. The plastic ones such as Luk, and the metal ones such as the Bendix. Comparing different brands out of current production stock seemed to back this up. I did not have a Mopar one to compare though, but I'm guessing any new Mopar one will be the same as the Luk. The Bendix one is fine. Or seems to be. The Luk is not.

I haven't done it but don't think it will be the upgrade you're looking for. The only real advantage of inverted T steering is that the toe does not change as the suspension travels. This is a concern on vehicles with a lot of travel, but the other downsides of inverted T outweigh it in more stock applications. The YJ used this steering setup because it was what would fit with the leaf springs, or they would have used the inverted Y setup. A couple things. Please refer to it as a "track" bar, as it directly controls the track of the front axle. This is more or less industry and enthusiast standard to use this term, but you may hear it referred to as a panhard bar if you're dealing with more race oriented people. A "trac" bar is another animal completely, as it is a contraction of the word "traction", these are typically used in drag or circle track racing in conjunction with rear leaf springs to increase traction on flat or smooth surfaces, and typically severely limit the ability for the suspension to flex. There is also offroad versions of these which incorporate a few other features so they do not limit the suspensions movement as much, and they are popular with certain crowds. These terms aren't interchangeable and will cause confusion. It would be totally reasonable to install a trac bar on a modified MJ in order to control axle wrap. Also, the YJ came with a front track bar from the factory. This was an effort to make the steering better, as quite frankly most front leaf sprung vehicles have crap steering. This forces the axle to swing in something of an arc inline with the drag link, although it's not exactly completely effective given that it's fighting the springs. Most people remove them and trash them, then ask why their steering is so crappy. Making steering work nicely with leaf springs is another topic entirely, but I'll leave it at that for now. As to track bars versus drag links on link front ends, it's not as simple as them being the same angle or parallel to each other. They also have to be the same length from bolt hole to bolt hole. And, since most of the track bars out there have some sort of bend to them, the angle that's being compared is straight line from one bolt hole to another, what the bar does between them isn't relevant.

RV antifreeze is either alcohol based or propylene glycol based, or a mixture thereof, but will contain zero of the additives needed to survive being used in an engine and not destroy said engine. Evans is quite a bit different, although it is based on either propylene or ethylene glycol originally, they put it through several processes which change the molecular structure; I had a good paper on this somewhere but can't find it. You can buy propylene glycol engine coolant from CAT and other equipment dealers, as sometimes they're required to run non-toxic coolant, and that's really the only point of propylene glycol as it's inferior to ethylene glycol otherwise. Beyond that I'd say just use the green coolant. And remember that half the point of it is to stop the engine from freezing.

I wish I had some (I literally have none in my possession) photos of my grandfather. He was merchant marine basically from the start of WW2. Pretty harrowing to go through despite being a non-combat position, seeing as the convoys lost ships all the time, and often lost them with all hands. Thanks to everyone who served. And since I'm Canadian it's Remembrance Day, so thank you even more to those who gave the ultimate sacrifice.

Not really. I tracked down a NV3550 and some other small parts. Still didn't purchase any axles and haven't exactly decided what I am doing with that, other than they will probably be from a JK and it's really a matter if that's a Rubicon or not. I spent a disgusting amount of money on machine tools to be able to try to fix this adapter or build a new one. Well, in reality I bought the machine tools because I wanted them and have needed them for a long time, and if I am unable to fix this I will break down and buy the Doomsday Diesel one. Currently I'm waiting on material, but then will probably still be held up on really being able to do anything because I need to source some other tooling and hardware. So realistically I won't be able to accomplish anything until after the holidays, and I may just switch gears and work on other stuff for a while again. I've done no work on the chassis either as I didn't even feel like picking away at it until I could place the engine. I should have tracked down some axles and worked out the suspension, but I had other things to do and wasn't feeling this project with the adapter in limbo. I do NOT recommend any product from Mercedes Diesel 4x4 at this point. This has been a very frustrating experience. I think the Doomsday adapter would work fine, as he now makes a Jeep specific one, although I don't like exactly how he made it.

I'd undo the springs and the hangers and roll the entire axle/suspension out of each and into the other. No disturbing the ubolts then, plus the M/T springs would go with the D44. But that's me.

The Novak mounts also explode if you look at them wrong. Really bad design.

I think tire size is always an easy opener question. I know I do it. I see a truck with big mud tars on it and if I want to see if they're a 4x4 person I always say something like "Nice tires, those Toyos, what are they, 35s?" or something like that. I could just look at the tire close enough to read it, but if I'm looking to make conversation it seems easier not to. But in this context it's weird, he was there to talk about the FSJ junk, but maybe he thought complimenting the XJ (that obviously has a ton of time and money into it) would butter me up if there was something he wanted to buy off me. If that was the case he killed any chance of it by insulting the MJ behind it, in fact he guaranteed that I didn't give an f' and was going to probably throw stuff out before selling it to him. My diesel swap bogged down pretty badly due to the adapter. Currently do not recommend it.