DirtyComanche

You can take a reasonable guess by looking at what they power and what gauge the wire is... At the end of the day the fuse is not protecting the device it is hooked to, it's protecting the truck from burning down. I think I replaced most of them with 20A fuses, save for the alternator one. But I'd have to look. My harness has about half of it cut out, so it's not exactly a fair representation either.

The angle on them is/was different and works better. They had a patent on the actual angle of them so they were unique. It might be expired now, so it may not matter anymore. Price wise I believe they're the same as the Mac anyways. I'd use the student program to get a few things. Quarter drive ratchets and sockets, a cotter pin puller, side cutters (not so sure on their current ones, maybe Klein or Knipex is the way to go now), flush cutters for zip-ties (P/N is PWC19, they warranty them for life and you're going to break them about once a year, so it's well worth it), a few of the small combination wrenches and other little funky wrenches, ratcheting screwdrivers (I guess, I actually rarely use them), a combination screwdriver (SDDD101 is the P/N, but ask for them to get you the old bit/holder setup for it that only had philips and flat), and that's about it for off the top of my head. I guess their torque wrenches have the 72 tooth/dual 80 head now, so they might be worth buying the 1/4 drive one from, but personally I prefer the Mac/Armstrong/whoever else torque wrenches because the adjusting mechanism is just nicer to me. I have more Snap-On stuff than that, but like your friend says there isn't any hurry, and lots of it can be some other brand. I like my Proto stuff, I'd have more Mac if there had been a dealer around more when I was starting out, and I have zero Cromwell since they didn't have dealers in Canada until a few years ago. Knipex makes some amazing things, get a little pair of the Cobra pliers as well, and then the bigger ones of them and the plier wrenches when time allows. Also, I'd recommend Channel Lock adjustable wrenches, I've got a couple of the 12" ones with an extra tooth cut in the jaws so you can open them right up, you wind up needing them every now and then because you can hit them with a hammer to break things free.

Nope. Long as the pressure bottle looks happy I'd just keep running it. I prefer the closed system, but with lack of radiator availability there's not much point keeping it now. Cleanest install is to use a new style rad and an old style 2.5L overflow bottle. Only annoying thing with that is the overflow outlet off the rad points exactly the wrong way, but you can't have everything I guess.

If it runs good I'd leave it alone.

Yup. You can't just grab a pinion from one ratio and a ring gear from the other. They may be able to mesh if you shim them enough, but you'll never run the correct pattern. Beyond that, gears are matched as sets of a pinion and a ring gear... You can't really get away with using a pinion or ring gear from one set in another, even if they're the same ratio and brand. In theory if they're the same brand and ratio, and the checking distance is marked the same, and they're from the same batch, you can get away with it, but it's just not a great idea (and I can't see any scenario in which you would want to do this).

Not even rust. Just a slight inkling of corrosion and they snap. It's a dissimilar metal thing I think.

The chrome handles are metal. They're the only handles you can actually get off the doors without snapping the studs.

I'd be torn on doing the intake/exhaust swap. There is more power to be made by doing it, that's absolutely for sure, but there is an awful lot of headache involved. I would solidly say it isn't worth it unless you're interested in trying to get as much power as you can, and damn the time and costs to do so. If you were to, you could either keep the Renix FI, or switch it to HO. Switching it to the HO would be far easier done with the XJ that engine came out of, assuming it was out of one, as you need all the wiring for the engine and cab (have to adapt some of it to work in the MJ), the ECM, etc, along with the intake/exhaust manifolds and associated bits, exhaust downpipe, etc. You can also just put the HO intake and exhaust on it and use the Renix FI, my Renix XJ is like this. You'll have to adapt the TPS, fuel lines, vacuum harness, intake, etc. I did it because I bought a stainless steel HO header to replace my cracked manifold, and when it didn't fit with the Renix intake I convinced myself that I should swap the intake rather than just buying a manifold/header that actually fit. In retrospect it was stupid and I wasted a ton of time on it. However when I pop the engine I have a HO head sitting here, so I will be able to get another 4 horsepower out of it next time. I'd guess your current high idle issue is related to the TPS or IAC, assuming the throttle isn't sticking.

84-86 XJ/MJ stuff is so much fun because they more or less played Parts Roulette when assembling them.

I'd concur. I have a mix of late model ZJ and XJ stuff on mine, which has an 87 front axle. It works fine.

I'm not aware of any modern automatic trans that requires sequential shifting. I'm curious what ones would.

It won't. The AX-4 trucks came with 3.54s typically as they didn't have OD. Put an AX-5 in place of the AX-4 and you now have an AX-5 truck with 3.54s. But gear ratios are all Schrodinger until the cover is off.

Out hiking rather than working. Working at a not yet functioning mine I last visited in 2011ish.

Just buy a tank. If there's pinholes in it now, there will be more later. EBay, Rockauto, etc all have them.

Pretty regular design. Angle the parts that meet the fender flares more, or you'll be cutting them off later for tire clearance. Make sure a Hi-Lift can actually get under it safely in multiple places. Unless you have no intention of using it for that. Make sure the brackets that attach it go back as far as the holes for the tow hook, and pick up the steering box holes. Make sure there's inner plates too.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Oil-Filter-Screw-Adapter-Fitting-2-5L-4-0L-53007563AB-Wrangler-YJ-TJ-LJ-XJ/202682844175?fits=Make%3AJeep&hash=item2f30d6c40f:g:5~sAAOSwlZ5c4Fe2&vxp=mtr Or probably this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Oil-Filter-Screw-Adapter-Fitting-2-5L-4-0L-53007563AB-Wrangler-YJ-TJ-LJ-XJ/202682844175?fits=Make%3AJeep&hash=item2f30d6c40f:g:5~sAAOSwlZ5c4Fe2&vxp=mtr Point is they're on eBay often enough. Search the OEM P/N and buy one that will ship to you.

Then get the standard standpipe and be done with it. Or be like me and buy 20 filters off rockauto when they're marked down.

Fram cheaped out in the early 2000s. Before then they were good. And as I said, it's really only their lowest end filters that suck for the most part. The 4.0 is also tough enough that it will likely survive using them... unless you have a total failure of the filter, which does happen. Pete was damn near to that happening. I don't see why you would use them when there is better filters for the same price or less.

Fram fixed some of their issues. And their higher end filters are actually decent. However they definitely make some not great cheap filters and there has been failures from them. That said I can easily get a dozen different brands of filters for the Renix, so I don't know why you would use a Fram.

Weld through primer and some access points to flood it with chassis saver, or something like that, are definitely needed. Seam sealing it after is also helpful... not that I ever seem to do that.

He also might be stupid. People see adds for them with ridiculous prices and think they're worth that. There was a 97+ with a rusted through roof, miled right out, and other issues (wouldn't shift into OD or something, I don't remember), it was local and the asking price was $1200. All I wanted was the doors and some odds and ends. I said I'd do $800 and show up with my trailer, no test drive and no further haggling. They said no. Two weeks later they were begging me to give them the $800, but nope, I'd gone to work and wouldn't be back for two more weeks. The guy wound up getting $500 for it because he needed the cash sooner than I'd be back.

Acetone will melt what is left. Looks like you're going to have some fun with that though.

You can mod them to fit. Somebody on here was selling them, IIRC.

Early (Renix) XJ/MJ gauges use 0-88 ohms for the sender. 0 is empty, 88 is full. In practice I find they're normally a little higher than that, similar to the GM 0-99 ohm setup that is super easy to find. Early HO (91-96) uses 88-0 ohms. 88 is empty, 0 is full. I have no idea why Chrysler did this, as I don't believe it even harmonized with any of their other vehicles. So yes, it reads backwards if a Renix cluster or sending unit is swapped. He needs the HO sending unit for it to work. The gauges also mount differnent so it's not as simple as swapping them between clusters. 97+ used the even more illogical 70-270 ohm sending units. Or something like that. That is harmonized with modern Dodge/Chrysler products, and also is an absolute PITA because it does not use 0 as a data point. Solutions really are to find a HO pump/sending unit, modify an XJ HO unit to work, or install a GM ranged universal unit into the tank separate from the current pump/sending unit assembly. The current sending unit should accept a FI pump from the 4.0L and it will make enough pressure.

The pump and sending unit that Rockauto lists is likely for an XJ and won't fit. No other advice.