DirtyComanche

Got 'em all over BC too. Running on flat is absolutely different than in the mountains. People need to accept that their gear shifting arm is going to get some exercise.

How about check your alignment and for worn parts.

There needs to be a certain amount of backlash or the gears may lock up. But no, not much.

Pump noise or pump life? I'm guessing the second was more important. All modern pumps are protected by a ballast resistor or PWM, they do not want to be exposed to full running voltage for long periods of time, and their max output is not necessary for the function of the engine. It allows you to disable the vehicle by pulling the wires off it and slipping them under the harness. 98% of thieves will assume the vehicle is broken and not even look, since it will start and immediately die. Of the rest, well, most don't know what they're looking for.

I leave them installed. I don't fully believe they were just there for noise. It is a very reliable part, and makes it easy to quickly disable the truck if need be.

I have a WJ pump and it absolutely doesn't have EVO. It fits the HO brackets if you swap pulleys or mill the bracket, so I guess it should fit a Renix bracket. I don't know what your problem is. With the WJ pump and hydro-assist I'd say my steering is a little touchy at highway speed, which isn't really a surprise given the flowrate of the pump and the amount of force the assist will put out, but my less modded MJ with a factory Renix pump and box is not at all. I think something else is making you perceive it as touchy, such as other worn out components or a lack of caster. Edit, if the V8 WJ has some sort of EVO, it would be after the T fitting to run the hydraulic cooling fan. I didn't take any of those components when I removed the pump. The XJ/MJ hose will fit the WJ pump if you swap the output fitting with the orifice in it, so likewise if you wanted to run the WJ lines to get the EVO you could probably just use the fitting out of the WJ pump. The only reason the WJ pump is ported and of a higher displacement is that it has to run the cooling fan continuously. I don't think it's an upgrade that anyone would want unless they had hydro-assist steering, or perhaps hydroboost brakes, otherwise it's a solution looking for a problem.

Revolution offers them, don't know who is cutting them or where. Dana didn't offer them for a reason. Regardless, that's only 10%~ lower.

As Jeep Driver says, don't go peeling it open just because you think it might be bad inside. It likely isn't. Take a hose and flush the inside of the rails out, then have a look in there with a small inspection mirror or a borescope. Chances are things are fine. If they aren't you can then assess what should be done.

Yeah, if you want worm clamps go fully stainless and get them from a hardware store. Most other places have crappy plated ones that will rust out or strip in a hurry. If you want spring clamps autoparts stores should have them, find a counter guy that knows what he's doing. I generally run worm clamps but admit that spring clamps are better in ideal conditions (new hoses and undamaged fittings). Buy a pair of Knipex Cobra Pliers to make removal and install of them easy.

Probably the ground wire off the cluster chewed in two.

Probably. I should have mentioned I torque them to standard as per the pattern, not whatever they spec. I think they changed the torque on the 4.0 ones 3 or 4 times over the years. Also I'm a 4.0 guy and didn't realize this is a 2.5 thread.

Yeah, that's mine.

Yeah, if you use the wrong wheels. He also has about 18" too much lift. Ford HPD60, GM 14 bolt, and 37" Toyos. Reason I didn't narrow the axle... There's no point. If I did you lose turning radius, which in the grand scheme of compromises being a little wider isn't a terrible trade off to be able to hit the steering stops. With the flares on it's still wide... But really not. That said, no, I wouldn't use a D44 front from a Dodge. Or at least I don't think I would. I don't know a lot about them as they're a newer unit bearing axle, not that there's anything really wrong with modern unit bearings, but if I was to go that route I'd go Superduty and be done with it. That sort of swap is a whole different story though, and for 35s isn't at all a good fit. Honestly swapping any front axle that does not have at least most of the brackets in the right place is an involving process. At least now there's some decent bracket kits to do it, although I believe they all have drawbacks and compromises.

Regardless, I'd say none of these things really go hand in hand with big banks. Edit, I mean that in I think they picked a name that would sound like all of these things, without actually really pinning them down on actually being that.

I'd do that.

Why would they not be? The limitation on them is they use cheap seals so they won't hold up to most chemicals, nor can they exceed about 150PSI reliably. I'm guessing you're not going to be putting harsh chemicals through them or running anywhere near that much pressure. Oh, they don't flow that well either. If the fitting leaking will cause massive damage or kill all your turtles, you might want to do something else though, as like I said the seals they use are typically quite cheap.

How many miles on your steering? It's single shear heims, no safety washers, I wouldn't run it. When they wear out they go fast, then they separate. Plus loading bolts in single shear like that is just asking for trouble, especially in the relatively soft knuckles. If the hole elongates, or is not drilled perfectly, which is likely the case, the bolt will loosen/lose preload, and break. TREs/DLEs use a tapered shank for that reason. TREs also have a larger crimp on the joint, meaning they will play up farther before separating, making it almost impossible to ignore before it comes apart completely. There's a reason no OEM uses a heim for steering or in that configuration, it's because it's wrong and unsafe. If you bracket the knuckles you can run them in double shear, but that's a lot of work for what it gets you. Not familiar with the Iron Rock kit because I don't buy things like that, but the D30 is weak all over the place and in ways that can't be addressed. The ring and pinion are the big show stopper, where the JK axle is 30% stronger due to the difference in the pinion size, bearings, and gear cut. Beyond that every other part of the XJ/MJ D30 is inferior or only on par with the JK version. I would not run around with stock sized brakes and 35s, thank you, and to throw larger brakes on an XJ/MJ D30 costs as much as a JK axle. Also, with 35s you need the width. Throwing low backspacing wheels on the stock axle "fixes" the problem but leaves you with a horrible scrub radius and extra loading on the already less than ideal ball joints and wheel bearings. I'm not going to tell you that something can't be done, or that it won't work, I'm telling you what should be done for it to actually be right. Which is a big disconnect with Jeep people.

If you have to ask, it's probably a terrible idea, and you definitely should do it. That a J-truck box behind it?

Since you already installed it, I'd suggest hitting the bolts with a torque wrench a couple times over the next week or two. Hopefully you did the initial install with a torque wrench and using the correct pattern. They should not come loose. I always put mine in with antiseize on them and they don't come loose. If you're talking about the collector flange nuts, I double nut them. Antiseize also.

They put it there so it would be as effective as possible, given it's basically in the middle of the engine, since the vibration is somewhat dampened by the engine itself over farther distances. Newer engines use multiple knock sensors partly for this reason, along with to ensure some redundancy for the event of inevitable sensor failure. I think you could move it back, it might not be ideal but it probably wouldn't matter. If there's a convenient boss near the middle of the other side of the block, that might be a good option too. You could also do something super hack like welding a nut, with the correct metric thread, on to the side of the block somewhere in the middle... But you didn't hear me suggest that.

I believe Eagle has often lamented on how his leaked from brand new, in 1988.

Good luck... It's going to be the 97+ doors for me. Once I find a good pair.

Also, back to the first post. "Top end of the motor" Do you just mean the valve cover is leaking, or do you suspect you have a top end problem such as a bad valve, lifter, cam, etc?

Oh, and at 6" of lift I'd get a SYE. The HD style that replaces the mainshaft. People will tell you that you don't need one. They're wrong.

This. I'm sure people are sick of hearing my thoughts about axles, but too bad. What is the intended end usage of the trucks? If you're really going to wheel it, the XJ/MJ D30 is not up to 35s. Unless you have a D44 in the rear, you should have a D35, and it absolutely isn't up to pretty much any usage beyond trailering it to car shows with 35s. For a more pavement pounder type of a setup, you can get away with a D30 front with the 35s, but I would still steer away from it as it is asking for trouble down the road, and you will spend a lot of money on it to still be stuck with a quite weak axle. If I was you I would look at getting a set of JK take out axles. The JK D30 is superior to the XJ/MJ ones from a strength perspective, plus it is a little wider, the brakes are bigger, the steering isn't anywhere near as terrible, etc. It isn't a bolt in swap but it's not too bad. You can buy a pair of low mile JK axles from the wrecker for not a heck of a lot of money (varies by locality), often less than what all the parts to rebuild what you have will cost. The JK D44 rear is also superior to the now near impossible to find XJ/MJ ones, and it comes with disk brakes that are decent (they're admittedly a little undersized for a modern vehicle, but they're superior to the commonly swapped 8.8's brakes or the factory drums, and big brake kits are available). There's other potential downsides to these axles, in the bolt pattern is different, being 5x5, but that's actually a plus given the amount of JK take off wheels/tires there is for cheap. If you want a 6" lift you want to go SOA in the back, period. This will give you somewhere in the range of 5" of lift, depending on the axle used, spring perch height, if you keep the overloads, if you add a leaf to the packs, etc, so be prepared to do a little measuring to figure out where you will end up. Since this is the only viable option, there is no value in trying to find a MJ D44 that will bolt in, as you're going to be cutting the spring perches off and redoing them and the shock mounts. I'd buy a leaf spring swap kit from Ruffstuff for whatever axle you get, it comes with the spring perches, plates, proper (5/8") ubolts, etc. They also sell a variety of shock tabs and mounts. You'll want to figure out what shocks to order once you get the axle in there and can measure correctly. Be prepared to lengthen your bumpstops using some box tubing or the like, as I don't know if anyone sells bumpstop extensions for the MJ. Again, this is all stuff to figure out once the axle is in and the suspension can be cycled with the tires on to determine clearances. For a brake like the mid-90s Dakota rear line works nicely, and I'd use it over some potentially suspect aftermarket stuff. For the front you want a long arm lift. From who? I don't know, the last lift kit I bought was in 2005. Things have changed a lot with what the aftermarket offers since then. Radius arm setups have some fairly major inherent flaws in how they perform, but they're still popular, and they do work well despite the flaws. The instability issues they have are worse if you have a wristed setup, which I'm not sure if anyone is selling now but I have seen them in the past, but they do perform better offroad except for the stability. Most 3 link setups do not drive well at highway speeds, again this is something of a stability issue, and while my own XJ has a 3 link setup and it drives 'fine' it is by no means as good as it could be (I also don't have a front swaybar and I believe it would drive far better than any radius arm setup if I could figure out how to get one in there). There is some 4 link kits on the market and I'd probably lean towards them given that at 6" of lift there should be no packaging issues using them. With 35s you'll need a steering box brace as a minimum. The good types that plates both sides of the frame. No hokey clamp brace crap. You could waste money on Motobuilt's brace if you want (I believe it's them that offer a sector shaft brace), but they don't actually solve the issue (it will drive nicer with it, maybe). You'll need longer brake lines, you'll need bumpstops, longer swaybar links/disconnects, and you'll need to figure out steering. Part of the advantage of the JK axles is that you get crossover steering. What parts make it work? I don't know. If you stick with a regular XJ/MJ D30 you will need to do something, and there is some aftermarket options but most of them suck for one reason or another. Flipping the drag link and buying the later XJ/ZJ stuff would be a bare minimum solution. Do not run Heims on the street if you're looking at aftermarket steering kits. I build most of my own stuff, save for small pieces, individual brackets, springs, etc, so I have little idea what the aftermarket is offering. So that was a massive wall of text and you won't feel like reading it. So read this. You're about to embark on a massive modification to how the vehicle works, and you had better be prepared to do your research, buy the correct components, and build it right, otherwise the end result will likely not drive very well, will be unreliable, or might even be straight up dangerous.