DirtyComanche

I have the chance to get a NV3550, which had trouble with going into 3rd gear, for very little money. It also might be fine because when they pulled it for replacement they realized the clutch was hanging up, but I would rebuild it either way. The rebuild kit is only $200 USD. Anyone take one apart? Any real special tools needed?

You can actually buy sealed/greasable rod ends from somewhere like EMF. He would spend more money on just the rod ends than any of the poll options would be as a complete kit. I can assure you that you are paying for a good product, and if I was to run a "Heim" style joint on the street they would be the only option I'd consider, but I didn't bother to mention them since just saying Heims don't belong on the street is a lot easier. The other downside to a Heim/rod end style of joint is most people just drill the knuckle out and put a bolt through in single shear. This is an abomination at the best of time, and certainly not what should be used on the street. There is tapered studs to somewhat alleviate this problem, and those combined with a proper safety washer are actually an overall better setup than a TRE/DLE is, but again this is throwing a lot of money around for minimal gain. The only reason to want to run that style of joint is so you can use proper double shear brackets in the first place, since that's where the real advantage lies. I don't know what I would do in OP's shoes. Probably not run a D30 with 35s to start with (expect a JK one maybe), so the steering would be fairly moot at that point.

You don't bleed it like brakes. Open the line, push the pedal to the floor, hold the pedal there, close the line, release the pedal (and make sure the reservoir is still full), open the line, push the pedal to the floor, hold the pedal there, close the line, release the pedal... Etc. I only put a hose over the bleeder because it makes less of a mess.

Heims aren't meant for the street. No other input as I've always built my own steering.

Junkyard had a few. $10 for 2, and I think one is OEM. It now idles correctly. The tip/seat is larger. It looks like if you use the renix one it's too small and misses the seat in the idle air passage. Now to sort out what is wrong with the transmission shifter.

Probably a junkyard item, or put up a wanted ad on the forum. Where are you located?

But is the plunger longer? Or is the tip/seat larger? I finally put plates back on my XJ, and it's idling at a bristling 1200RPM. When I pulled the IAC it was extended (probably) the whole way, much farther than I have ever seen one, to the point the sheath around the plunger was loose because the spring inside had completely slackened. This is with a HO TB and intake on a Renix, and I thought I used a HO IAC but it looks the same as all the other ones I have, leading me to believe it is a Renix one and that I need the HO one for it to actually be able to seal the idle air passage. The only place that had one in stock wanted $93 for it, which was actually fairly close to the dealer price of $130. So I'm going to probably just order one off Rockauto for much less, or maybe run to the junkyard today.

To do mine over I would do long arms, even at only 3.5" of lift.

I think the depth of the plunger is different. Going to buy an actual HO one tomorrow to check.

Again, see what Eagle said. Because it is spot on. If you're not scared you're about to die, it is not death wobble.

This. If you've crapped your pants, then once you get it stopped you just pull over and cry for a while, it's death wobble. If not, it's just a shake. Shouldn't matter that much. Probably has more to do with whatever tires you are running.

I have a bunch of random unknown source IACs around. Looking on RockAuto the Renix and HO carry a different P/N. Any idea if there is a functional difference or not?

Electric pressure washer I gave a case of beer to a friend in exchange for since he was going to throw it out. We drank the beer together, so I think cost is technically zero. It's a piece of junk but man is it ever handy. Works great for blasting a vehicle clean before bringing it into the shop.

Yeah, that's common, and I forgot about it happening.

Master cylinder would be my first guess given what you've done. I'd give it a last hurrah at bleeding, and make sure the booster is disengaging, and then proceed to the master.

The vac disco is mostly moot. I prefer not to have it, but it doesn't matter. Later axles are better in that the wear parts are more plentiful and cost less. But it doesn't matter that much. Regardless of what you pick up, it will likely need new bearings, seals, etc, so you will be in it for a bit. If I was you I'd look for a later HPD30 and 29 spline Chrysler 8.25. Plenty strong for what you're doing, and if they're from the same donor it's easy to remember what you need to ask for when buying wear parts.

The bolt pattern won't be right... But as Carnuck was getting at, it will be within an inch of the width of your existing axle; actually it will be an inch narrower. As to the original question, the factory welds brackets on in a single pass... While doing shorter welds and moving around is good practice, it is not strictly necessary.

Got any good fenders or radiator support/header panel bits?

Yeah, that's a typical one. Here we get calls that the CRA (like the IRS) has an open warrant on you and they're going to get the police to arrest you, and caller ID shows the number as the 1-800 for the actual CRA. I love it when we get that on a work line, because I'll certainly play along for a while before telling them what I think.

It's so easy to spoof numbers for caller ID that it's criminal.

I paid $500 for one in about that shape. J20, so slightly better axles too. I paid $1200 for the one that allegedly was driveable that I made a Youtube video on. I'd say it's nice than that one, sorta...

Yeah. If it's important they will leave a message.

My understanding is they're verifying the number belongs to a human, since you inevitably say "hello" when you pick up. Then they know to unleash the actual spammers/scammers when they get the chance.

A friend just sent me this, and it was long ago/enough companies back that I figured why not. I'm the guy on the left (machine's right) probably doing up oil lines or something. The #1 seal in the engine failed and it ate all its oil, this was the engine going back in after repair, we were in a gravel pit on the side of the Cassier Highway.

Went wheeling. The snow got deep on us at the end, and the air line for my rear locker split, so it got really slow. Surprisingly I was the only one with lockers so I broke the trail the entire way.