DirtyComanche

I'm not sure I would have been willing to get under that Libby.

They're not 12 point, they're regular metric allen/internal hex. If I said they were 12 point in the video then it was a mistake. Lots of guys unbolt them from the top I believe, so the motor mount actually comes off the K-member. That looked harder at the time, as there was some heatshields for the mounts that would be in the way, a guy could just bend them though. The flywheel bolts are 12 point (and stress relieved), I think that was the only real 12 point stuff I ran into. There's a bunch of other metric allen stuff in various sizes I ran into. The whole car has a lot of high end hardware on it though, so it's a bit odd to people that aren't used to it.

I'd read that before, and I believe it is accurate, but have never tried it. This is going into a Comanche? The super short SYE carries a price premium with no gain in our application, curious why you wound up with one?

You're not going to want to hear this, but I'd sell that SYE and install the normal short HD one from AA, and use your normal 2 wire VSS. That Dakota Digital converter box is a hack piece of equipment at the best of times. I'd go out of my way to not have it.

I'm using the Mercedes Diesel 4x4 adapter. A-MB202. It will work with an 4.0 bell pattern Jeep with the 3/4" pilot. It's sitting here (the Canada Post strike was finally resolved after it sat in limbo for three weeks) and I'm a little mixed on it, but I think it will work fine. I'll admit I didn't do a lot of research into the adapters that were available, I knew of the MD4x4 one and assumed it was the only one, and hadn't found much information otherwise until after I'd already ordered it. It's not like it was terribly expensive anyways. Another way to do it if a guy was running an AX-15 would be to get the Doomsday one and put a Toyota whatever it is (R151? It's the same trans as the AX-15) bellhousing on it; as while I haven't fondled one of his adapters, I think he's a bit more of a sticker for details. I also believe he's working on an actual Jeep adapter, but not sure if that's confirmed or if he was just musing. Also, I guess 4x4Labs makes an adapter for Toyota applications? There's another company as well, Bendsten's? https://transmissionadapters.com/collections/mercedes His stuff looks very nice, but it's all GM applications. I think if you wanted you could find a GM NV3500 pretty easily, since they made lots of them, and it's basically the same as a 3550, you'd just have to run a GM tcase or another adapter (not sure if the GM NV3500 is a regular 6 stud tcase pattern. If it's a 6 then GM NV241s are cheap and strong, and I think it's the same pattern as a Jeep tcase so you could just swap inputs, I don't know). I intend to go into detail on the wiring. That's down the road though. The Renix era harnesses are pretty easy to make work with any engine transplant, and I've cut down/rebuilt/simplified four of them already. This one is a little different than I'm used to since it's a 2.5L one, but pretty much the same. I'll fix the routing issue with it too, since the way AMC ran the harness in front of the radiator was less than ideal. Lots of details for this build are in no way set in stone, so everything is subject to change at any time.

I was quoted $650 for one out of an XJ, as pulled with lots of klicks, so I didn't even ask about other applications. I might try again on Monday though. I really dislike non-synchronized reverse. Looking at the ratios on the NSG370 really made me think it would be the ideal option though, but with there being only a couple years of TJs to get one out, most of which were prior to them actually fixing the major flaws with it, of I'm thinking it isn't happening.

Thanks! I'm probably using an AX-15 mostly because I have one. I wanted a NV3550, no dice on finding one for an acceptable price though. The NSG370 was also a contender, but I couldn't locate one so I didn't do a ton of research into it. In retrospect I could have sourced a GM NV3500 or maybe a Dodge one, and bought a different adapter, I'd already committed on the adapter so I didn't really research those options either.

Thanks! Like I say, I try hard to keep the videos as professional as I can. I actually was laughing when I came up with that.

I believe it's already been said they have zero interest in making a 2dr. Not enough market, and they cited crash safety reasons. Lots of that stuff is offered on the "keeping up with the Jones" mentality. Unfortunately Chrysler doesn't seem to understand that the consumer might want to be able to PICK their options. If I could have ordered a JKU with the Rubicon lockers/tcase but base model everything else, and in the colour I wanted (which was a colour they offered for a couple years then decided everyone wanted either black, dark grey, dark blue, or silver), I would very likely have traded my JK in on it. I don't like power windows or locks. I don't like built in NAV units. I don't even want a damn CD player. The 8 speed auto is to satisfy CAFE (is the right one? ). Everyone has gone to 6+ speed autos or CVTs for that reason. Lots of the other fluff features are to to satisfy NHTSA (again ) safety requirements, but they get touted as features you want (tire pressure monitoring, braking assist, backup cameras, backup assist, lane departure warning, etc etc). Unfortunately they can't get away from these things.

A one piece top would be nice. So if you really, really wanted you could go topless for the summer, but at least it would still be simple to make (cheaper) and seal well. Fixed top would be okay too, but that's not the image they're trying to sell it under.

How about you explain what engine, transmission, etc you have and where you got them from? I'm guessing you have a 4cyl but I seriously don't know. I'm guessing you have incompatible parts regarding your engine/trans choice and/or whatever you did with the external slave conversion.

Yeah, I've got a couple jeeps.

If anyone reads this later on down the road, this works fine, as we suspected.

Loose wire or bad wire.

You can try this method though.

I really don't understand what parts you used. You're not bleeding it as per the manual though.

Thanks! I appreciate it. Just trying to get other things square away so I can get back at this.

This is good advice.

Super common for that rod to go AWOL. I'd lock the bias valve in the full position with a zip tie for now.

2Lo kit.

Did you bench test or look inside any of the these components before you swapped them in? I'd start with the shift linkage on the tcase, adjust it as per the FSM. If it's not that then something is broken, pull the front driveshaft and see if it's the tcase (front yoke rotates free while in 4wd position) or the axle (yoke rotates free on the ground). Also, if you got these parts out of the same truck then something is odd, since it should have had a vac disconnect axle. The tcase having the vac switch doesn't matter either way, if you don't have a CAD it doesn't really do anything, but you won't get the 'Part Time' 4wd light on the dash since it's triggered by the CAD via vacuum.

Good luck with the new job. As long as you're keen and willing to learn, you'll go far.

No, you can't just bolt them in even if you have the carrier. The pinion is larger and takes different bearings. The carrier isn't the same width, and also different bearings I believe. Hypoid offset is the same, but the cut of the gears is so different that the carrier offset changed, and the ring gear is also no longer 8.5" (I want to say it's 8.66" or so). Like I said, it can be done, but it's custom machining from the mad scientist Carl Jantz. The axles have very little in common beyond their name and outward appearance.

No. I'm giving him a rear case half.

It works, but you need to enlist the help of Carl Jantz at Jantz Engineering (I think is what he calls his business) to do the correct machining and provide you with the needed bearings. He's a master of stuffing the wrong gears in the wrong housings (D50 gears in D44 housings, D70 or D80 gears in D60 housings, etc), and there is some good reasons to do this. I believe he said that on paper the JK D44 geatset is 20-30% stronger than a conventional D44. The D50 gears nets an even larger gain, something around 40% better, but that's only for front HP applications. So if you're trying to build something high zoot and light weight, yeah, or trying to stay within class rules for competition, sure, but for the regular guy... No.