DirtyComanche

Can I see what you've all cooked up and made work in the factory dash? I know I've seen ones that looked decent over the years, but probably many more that did not. I'm torn on going away from the factory cluster on my new truck, or keeping it. I have to add a few extra doo-flickers anyways, and can't decide what route to go.

I wonder if they'll weld the brackets on the frame correctly at least? Never buy the first year of a new model.

Mostly upset by the Gladiator name. Edit, I mean that as the truck is disappointing, so what, don't slap a legendary name on it in that case. Plus now I'm going to be forever screwed trying to search for actual Gladiator parts.

Well, now we know why the F35 programme is so far over budget.

I'd run 4600 class in KOH with that.

What online communities are there as a resource for these engines and swaps related to them?

Yeah, it makes sense. It's tight in the front with a 4.0L if you don't lift it a ton, given that pan design I see how it would be a huge issue. I'm wondering how much of the longevity of these motors is due to the fact they seem to take a bunch of a oil (at least the pan is massive) and have a huge filter.

The thread drift is because it is only logical to get a whole 97+ donor if you wish to swap the cosmetic parts AND do a 4wd conversion. Unless you're looking to mix and match it some more than that.

It's stupid because they changed it. Multiple times. It's only that standard once they went to plastic tanks with basket pump/senders. GM is the only one that really makes sense. 0-99 (100 effectively) ohms. With 0 being 0. That's like the metric system! Ah, well, 'Mericans would hate that, way too logical.

Alright. I stand by my comment that the Chrysler sending unit resistance range is stupid. Disregard everything else.

Does he have a 97+ cluster? Because that's what I would call relevant information for the OP.

It should be a 220-20 ohm sender with 220 being empty and 20 being full. Stupid Chrysler standard. And being a stupid standard is the issue, as all Chrysler basket style pump/sender assemblies use that resistance range. You could probably send it to a rebuilder and have them put a different potentionmeter in it, or do it yourself. Otherwise you're stuck getting an aftermarket gauge, or going to the new style cluster, or you could possibly find a boat style capacitance sending unit that would produce a suitable output like the GM standard (0-99ohms) which would work reasonably well with a Renix gauge. Boat style ones install pretty easily in a plastic tank.

Good to see you're making progress. Is that the MercedesDiesel4x4 modded oil pan you have now? How bad did it look like it would be to move the pickup tube to the rear?

That said most likely the slave cylinder has a pinhole leak in it, or one of the orings on the pressure and bleed lines, or the actual hose has a pinhole leak. If you get it bled, even poorly, it should stay bled. Since you have an internal slave, it makes it very hard to see small problems until it blows up completely.

You don't pump the pedal. All that does is causes air bubbles to become entrapped in the fluid. The clutch is bled by opening the bleeder screw, pushing the pedal to the floor and holding it there, and then closing the bleeder screw. Release the pedal and repeat. I've also had no issues pushing the pedal down, wedging it with a stick, and then opening the screw and closing it when the fluid flow stops, but that is not what the manual recommends. I put a hose on the end of the bleeder and run it into a bottle also, as this makes it less likely to accidentally pull air back into the system. Plus it saves the mess.

Dunno about the switch rod. But I managed it without the lockplate tool, really not that bad, about a 2/10 by standards of stupid helicopter stuff, would have been easier if I had more than one pick and a slotted screwdriver on me. Anyways, the cylinder is lying on the floor with all the fuel pumps now, so just gotta swap a couple tires with ones that are round and I can unload it at some point.

That sounds like it should only be about a weekend of debauchery away...

Look like a good starting point. Sell that tailgate to me, since it looks like you won't need it.

I'll just order one. It's $23 on Amazon. Looking at the column they hamfisted it anyways. I've got another one here that I'll swap the lock cylinder on and install instead. Might just break this one farther so I can steer the thing. Oh yeah, I cleaned the big chunks of garbage out of it today since I have to go to the dump tomorrow anyways. I found no less than 6 fuel pumps scattered on the floor and seat and 2 more in the box.

What's the deal with the Overlander vs other models? There's tons of very clean WJs for sale with blown up engines, at least that I see. If I was serious I'd get one of those, and go straight to a not-Chrysler engine option. It seems like a great chassis, but everything stock in the drivetrain seems to just suck. Fake D44 rear axle, tcase with a viscous coupler that dies, transmissions that die, pistons dropping skirts, etc. My mom has a plane jane one with the 4.0 in it and it's been great though. Also not abused.

Lots of nice WJs are out there for cheap. I debated picking one up as something a little different.

Yeah. I was like "No, I'm not doing it. Nope. Nope. Can't. Not possible. Go work on the J truck and get it good to go and forget about this." Next thing you know I'm trying to unload the parts J20 from the trailer so I can go get it.

I probably will, they're only $20 CAD... But I'll admit I've actually never pulled a steering column apart. I'll give him a couple days to try to find them, it's going to sit on the trailer that long anyways. What would be nice is if you could order the bisexual ignition cylinder and door locks as a set, and I could just convert the whole thing to that setup, like my 88 is.

I absolutely don't have the space or time for any other vehicles. I just don't. It's not possible, or workable, or anything. I did sell the extra XJ I had for a tidy profit (about $2k), but I didn't sell my J10 and decided I'd at least fix it up a bit so it was reliable and then either drive it or sell it. But then I spied this poor little guy out on the reservation, mixed in with a ton of other junk vehicles. So, what can you do? Everyone needs a home. That's the better side as far as straightness. The other side has a creased fender and door, and one little dent in the cab from being hit by something. Tailgate is a little bent and jammed, but not terrible. But it looks like the only rust on the whole thing is around the bottom of the taillights, which is kinda odd actually... I'm sure if I pull the flares I'll find more, but really, it's surprisingly nice in that regard. Hopefully he finds the keys before I dig into it. Loading it with the steering locked and the nowhere near round rear tire was less than ideal... Unloading it will be worse.

I agree. I don't know what the application was, but I remember always running into them in the PnP. Chevy or Dodge something, would have had to be in the transition years in the late 80s/early 90s, I think. But I honestly don't know, that was a long time ago. I'm trying to get a passenger drop 241 for a contingency option on one of my current projects. They are rare now. I don't know why guys are using them for LS swaps, there's better options.