DirtyComanche

Hmm. I think I could live with an inch. But... I might be able to make it up a bit anyways as I can ditch the fuel pressure regulator and just put a 90* bulkhead/barb fitting or something in it for the pressure side. Looking at the sending units/pump baskets for the earlier tanks they don't have a FPR anyways, but it has a weird collection of bosses on the top for what? EVAP probably? And something else? Hmm.

Any idea what brand it was? The Spectra one definitely was thin, but I spend a lot of time handling metal so it may not be as obvious to some people. The debate is also if I should just wire wheel/glass blast my current tank and paint it, or buy a new one. The current tank is actually not that bad, maybe, it's just really hard to say as once you have any flaking rust you know you have significant pitting. But as to if there's too much or not is really hard to judge. I'd also be upset if it wound up like my last OEM tank that didn't leak until I filled it, and then it leaked from the seam. I've debated trying to rig up a bojang pressure tester to it before I do anything else, just tape outlets with duct tape and hit it with a pound or two of air, soap it for leaks. It might be worth it, or I'll waste a couple hours screwing around.

Unfortunately I think I need to try it to know how bad it is. I know it's close to the driveshaft too, even when you squish it over as far as you can and reshape the tank a bit. Although, the factory tank is close to the shaft too. How far below the frame rail is 'just below'? It won't be heavily offroaded, and I'd probably build a skid either way... But I don't want an anchor. Edit, I'm building a driver to keep forever, that doesn't have rust holes through the bed and bondo falling out all over the place... So Eagle can be sorta happy about that. Sorta.

For only 50 loonies I can bodge the Dodge tank. https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/tnk-tan-gml/overview/ Hmm. Seems almost like a no-brainer... It's $200 by the time I get a replacement steel tank to my door, and I'd still need to paint it.

I wish I knew how to take good pictures with my DSLR. But, I present to you, "Within LeGastank", taken by Samsung Galaxy S6.

So, who has one, and what did you think of it? I bought the Spectra Premium one for my last truck. The metal is thin. It's lead-tin coated (terne) according to them, but I"m guessing it's zinc-tin because you can't just go slopping lead around anymore. Otherwise I think it's exactly the same as an OEM tank, but I can't specifically recall if it had exactly the same sump tray setup in it or not. One way or another it works fine, it just bothers me that the metal is that thin. I'd highly suspect every aftermarket tank is actually stamped by Spectra, as I doubt the market for MJ tanks is large enough for anyone else to have made dies. But I'm not sure. Anyone else that bought an aftermarket tank, did it seem thin? Other option is to put the Dakota tank in... And bodge the sending unit completely. I'm thinking about it.

Given that modern half tons have ridiculous tow ratings, yeah, they had to do that. A regular '18 Sierra 1500 (not the HD) is rated for 12,500lbs. The Canyon, oh lordy, is rated for 7700lbs! And a 1500HD (which is really more like a 3/4 ton truck, but still) is rated for 23,400lbs. I bet you this thing would not be enjoyable to tow 7700lbs with... Because I can assure you the Canyon isn't enjoyable at anything near that.

Check gauge accuracy. Fan rubbing something? Or something rubbing a driveshaft? Can't hear enough in the video to say much...

That's an interesting story. The problem with this thread was the described symptoms didn't fit anything specifically. Trouble with one or two gears is typically synchros/wear or an actual internal failure (you need to rebuild, that's that). Trouble with all gears is typically the clutch hanging up, or some other reason the input side is not being disengaged, however this problem is typically confirmed by trying to put it into gear while not moving (it will not want to), and he says that isn't an issue. That leaves operator error, or operator error induced by tolerance stackup, as in he's not actually getting the clutch disengage while moving. I'd feel that likely is/was the case, worn bushings in the pedals/linkage, carpet or floor mat buildup interfering with the pedal, a weak master/slave and soft hose, along with a worn clutch and dry pilot bearing, will mean you have to very deliberately push the pedal to the FLOOR in order to get a decent disengagement to allow gear change. The other factor here is we don't know what style of driving/shifting he follows, people who regularly shift without the clutch will likely not notice clutch issues (even when using it) as they will instinctively rev match instead of making the clutch work, however these people tend to notice synchro issues much faster. If OP had returned again to say "I tried this or that, or it only does it this time" and bumped it again, people likely would have replied. Is your transmission doing the same thing? Edit, above comment had assumed people would do obvious things like check fluid level and condition, I probably should have told him to do that the first time around but it seems like a no brainer to me that when a component acts up you should see if it has oil in it and if the oil is not glitter or grit.

Exactly. I got blasted/negged on Reddit for saying it wasn't a truck and it should have been called a Scrambler. So I know I and everyone else in this thread that has that opinion is correct, as anything that is the opposite of Reddit's opinion is correct.

I'm thinking this was the most solid advice in the thread. The switch is a bit of an overly complicated piece, and probably 30 years old, or it's a lowest bidder aftermarket version. Lots of times its the contact for the rheostat in it, or the rheostat itself. Personally I've had half a dozen or more go out on me... But I normally grab them from the junkyard, so you get what you get. You can clean them up and carefully adjust the contact to fix them sometimes.

Wut?

Yes. Water somewhere. Personally I'd guess distributor. Check the cap on it is tight, but either way they are not sealed.

Can I see what you've all cooked up and made work in the factory dash? I know I've seen ones that looked decent over the years, but probably many more that did not. I'm torn on going away from the factory cluster on my new truck, or keeping it. I have to add a few extra doo-flickers anyways, and can't decide what route to go.

I wonder if they'll weld the brackets on the frame correctly at least? Never buy the first year of a new model.

Mostly upset by the Gladiator name. Edit, I mean that as the truck is disappointing, so what, don't slap a legendary name on it in that case. Plus now I'm going to be forever screwed trying to search for actual Gladiator parts.

Well, now we know why the F35 programme is so far over budget.

I'd run 4600 class in KOH with that.

What online communities are there as a resource for these engines and swaps related to them?

Yeah, it makes sense. It's tight in the front with a 4.0L if you don't lift it a ton, given that pan design I see how it would be a huge issue. I'm wondering how much of the longevity of these motors is due to the fact they seem to take a bunch of a oil (at least the pan is massive) and have a huge filter.

The thread drift is because it is only logical to get a whole 97+ donor if you wish to swap the cosmetic parts AND do a 4wd conversion. Unless you're looking to mix and match it some more than that.

It's stupid because they changed it. Multiple times. It's only that standard once they went to plastic tanks with basket pump/senders. GM is the only one that really makes sense. 0-99 (100 effectively) ohms. With 0 being 0. That's like the metric system! Ah, well, 'Mericans would hate that, way too logical.

Alright. I stand by my comment that the Chrysler sending unit resistance range is stupid. Disregard everything else.

Does he have a 97+ cluster? Because that's what I would call relevant information for the OP.

It should be a 220-20 ohm sender with 220 being empty and 20 being full. Stupid Chrysler standard. And being a stupid standard is the issue, as all Chrysler basket style pump/sender assemblies use that resistance range. You could probably send it to a rebuilder and have them put a different potentionmeter in it, or do it yourself. Otherwise you're stuck getting an aftermarket gauge, or going to the new style cluster, or you could possibly find a boat style capacitance sending unit that would produce a suitable output like the GM standard (0-99ohms) which would work reasonably well with a Renix gauge. Boat style ones install pretty easily in a plastic tank.