DirtyComanche

That's smelling a lot like a bad ground.

I don't believe the one used from 84-90 or whatever is available. The later one is, and it will fit but the screw holes do not line up. It also allows for the hole in the floor for the shifter/tower to be cut out much more, which was why they went to that style. Crown and Dorman make the later one, I believe.

It makes no sense. I guess the figure the real holdback to dominating the Canadian market is the shipping costs, so why try? Amazon has the shipping thing under lock and key.

Those sales aren't valid for Canadians.

It may have a little breather cap on the shifter tower. Some did. The others vent out the boot around the shifter. Not a great setup either way.

You could replace the relay center and replace all the fusible links with one. Assuming it has enough holders for you. You need 3 relays unless you have A/C or want to move the fan or fog light relay, and I want to say it's 7 fuses to replace the links (less if you gang them like the factory did, which I've done before but don't recommend). You can get the required number of fuses down a bit by cleaning up the harness too, depending on what options you actually have.

Thanks. It is worth it as long as it passes cal, which I doubt it will fail.

Was it a retailer that has multiple? I could use one.

Cool. I always enjoy watching buildings get moved.

Yeah, it's been fine since I found the right settings and turned them off.

That's pretty typical in my experience. Comes in running fine, you say "Ah, I'll change the fuel filter because it probably needs it" and absolutely disgusting black fuel come pouring out of it... And it runs exactly the same after.

I think I've got a couple of those, and a couple that are just fuse holders, hanging out in my parts toolbox. Always handy to have that stuff around, you just never know when you'll need it. It's nice they actually give you the pins too, rather than just some pre-crimped pigtail garbage, so you either have to splice it or push all the pins out and start over. Actually, my biggest pet peeve with trying to buy electrical connectors is when they come as a pigtail rather than a plug with a handful of pins, it's not hard to crimp pins and it's 10000X more professional.

For the 912A569 he's listing it at $546 USD. I don't think he'll have the wiggle to come in cheaper than the $625 CAD delivered. But I'll ask him.

That's why I'm building a second one up. Have a nice one for the summer, and keep the rotting one for the winter. Truth be told, if a guy had bedsides or a better box, and was willing to put the time into it, one could probably nip off all of the rust issues on my current driver. Finding a box? Hah, like that's going to happen. I'll stick with washing the frame out every time I go to the self serve car wash, and continuing to drive it. Maybe at some point I'll wire wheel the worst of the rust off it and patch things, just so it will last longer, but that doesn't need to happen anytime soon.

I picked up some heavily discounted micro SDXC cards off Amazon. That was it. Nothing else caught my eye. I did just about pull the trigger on another cheap action camera, but it's probably no better than the POS I have, so why bother. 4x4 vendors offering 10% off, meh, they do that all the time.

I've got a guy in the US that's probably cheaper if you want... Not sure how amazing his pricing is on Eaton stuff, but he will blow any Canadian price on Yukon stuff out of the water. Yukon makes a helical gear L/S too (not sure about your application).

Looks pretty decent considering.

So I've been poking on this little guy for a while, between the other stupid things I've got going on. Basically it's a 1989 2wd SWB, and it came with a dead 2.5L. Not exactly what I want. I didn't do a teardown on the engine but based on the amount of blowby in the airbox the rings were probably taken out at some point. So that junk came out, and I'm going to jam a Mercedes Benz OM617 in there, come hell or high water. I finally had the time to string some video together so I can share it with you. Warning, the video is 18~ minutes long. Obviously I need to fire my graphics designer that does the video thumbnails though.

I think something happened and the settings just reset on their own, or inadvertently by my own hand.

Yeah, I poked through the settings and I'd missed a whole bunch of them. I get emails for threads I start. Or I did, 'cause that can get bent. I'm not sure how that setting got turned on, because I didn't before, but it might have been a while since I started a thread since I'd been busy with stupid J trucks and other stuff for a while.

I just got an email letting me know you quoted me, so I'll go check that out.

If it was anything else I would have just turned around and gone home when I actually saw it in person. But the small bits on these trucks add up in value so fast I wasn't upset about it not being what I'd hoped, just bummed that I wasn't going to be able to take it cruising around town without major work. I was more than a little blown away by how hack things were when I finally got into it though. Thanks for watching and for the kind words.

Thanks! I think the truck has probably mostly been apart and wasn't driven much since then, as there isn't really evidence that anything is factory or at least hasn't been disturbed. The sheetmetal is way worse than it first appears. It's actually largely what suckered me in to start with, as it looks great in pictures taken from 20' away in poor light, and I figured if the guy was stretching the truth about the mechanical condition that good metal is still gold. It had a previous 'restoration' which I think involved wire wheeling the crust off and coating it with bondo and then gallons of implement paint. Where the paint has held together it looked good, there's holes clean through elsewhere. There's holes clean through the inside of the box, the bottom of the tailgate, every fender flare, the seams of the box sides, the rockers, the cab corners, the bottoms of the doors, the front fenders (not just the flares), the header panel, and the floor in the cab is another story too... The hood is really nice though. It really makes me wonder what the story on the truck actually is, I'd love to talk to whoever did the original work.

I would highly recommend trying the weld on nut trick as many times as needed, rather than resorting to cutting/drilling those out. It will go eventually. I buy bags of nuts to keep around for doing this, as sometimes it's just a bear to do properly due to access, contamination, or problems with the guy running the welder, but at the end of the day it's the least damaging way to do it. The AX-15 uses it's own crossmember with a drop section in it, so as long as it was an AX-15 XJ you'll be fine. Same with the mount, they're consistent for all years of the AX-15. If it was open like that for a while, I would hope it didn't get any water in it... Be prepared to flush it. For fluid personally I like the Amsoil MTG https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/manual/manual-transmission-and-transaxle-gear-lube-75w-90/?code=MTGQT-EA . I think most guys run Redline MT-90 though.