DirtyComanche

Basic rule of thumb is (for a 4.oh): -Name brand synthetic, although I often use Lucas since I get a hell of a deal on it (I don't consider Lucas a name brand), but no Walmart oil or whatever. Pennzoil, Mobil 1, and Valvoline are my normal name brands. -10w30 year round since I don't like doing maintenance based on a calendar schedule -Always gasoline oil only, no additives beyond what's already in it -Change it at about 5000km because I don't drive that much, but a lot of it is off road or other 'severe' conditions, and that's a nice even number to remember. I debated going to filter changes and top ups at every second interval, but I do like to look at the oil as it comes out. -Use a good filter. Currently I've got a bunch of AC Delco Pro ones. FWIW I've never blown up a 4L. I've tried every gimmick, thicker oil, thinner oil, cheapest oil possible, diesel oil, camguard, ATF, run Fram filters, refused to run Fram filters, swamped it, not change the oil for 4 years, ran it out of oil, ran it with too much oil, overheat it until you're really afraid the head gasket will let go, run a broken tstat so it never heats up, and everything else you either should be or shouldn't be doing. I honestly think it doesn't matters that much on a 4L that's already well enjoyed, pretty much as long as you stay within about 3 lightyears of what AMC recommended it's going to be okay.

Highest ratio numerically? I was going to recommend an Izusu D44 or 12 Bolt. Or an 8.8 with 4.10 gears.

Yeah, they're wrong about as often as they're right. And their parts often don't fit, or have critical design flaws. It's unfortunate because a lot of what they have on their site is taken as gospel.

Interesting. Rockauto does sell OEM parts. And they seem to buy out stores/warehouses/etc and unload the stuff for a lower price if it's not regular inventory items. Wondering if they bought up some Jeep dealer NOS at one point?

It's midyear 89, so if his 88 is a 5 speed with a 4.oh it's got the Peugeot. Scanning the thread it looks like his is actually an AW4 auto right now. Which makes the swap more complicated because he needs the pedal box, and to drill the firewall for the clutch master, and I don't really know what else.

You don't absolutely need to. Just be prepared to cut the hole for the shift tower larger, which I actually believe it was in later XJs anyways. And the tcase linkage might not work right, but that's normal since it's a garbage design. That said, unless you're trying to gain more belly clearance, I'd recommend using the correct crossmember. Also, he specifically needs the AX-15 crossmember, if he has a manual trans in the truck right now it is still likely the wrong crossmember.

Helicopter companies go broke all the time, so you always have to make sure you've got some cash away for when it happens. No point crying about it, at least they timed this so it looks like I should get paid everything I'm owed, which was the big thing that mattered to me. I should be there well after the hurricane passes. But they've had some impressive storms this year it seems, oh well, can't be worse than -40 and sideways snow. Yeah, it's common. No idea what he meant by dual ticketed, could be anything, since there's basically 5 licenses, unless he was an American. Many of my friends have jumped ship over the years in search of more stable work or better conditions, of course a few of them have gone back too because the money is a little too good to turn down when it gets really busy, but overall most guys don't do it that long because it is so unstable. And maybe? I've got a ton of stuff lined up that I need to do around here but you never know. Just over a year with these guys, I'd finally got fed up with the people I was with before (was there almost 6 years). There's going to be a big shock while this gets worked out, since they're one of the largest helicopter companies in Canada. I'm not looking to go back to work tomorrow, since I actually do want to take a break for a bit, but the problem is likely everywhere else will be flooded with applications for a while. However, this company actually was profitable other than they had a bunch of debt left over from 2008/2009 when they really screwed up, they finally just admitted that rolling loans over at unfavourable interest rates wasn't really working, the payments were too much to ever really get ahead on them; so with that in mind there is a good chance that the machines will be bought up or leased to other companies and they will need people. Yup. Might as well.

I could be wrong, but... If you want to be able to use it to boost the battery without having to do anything but flip a switch, that Blue Sea battery isolator/switch that Jeep Driver posted is probably the best bet. However, for actual isolation (not killing both batteries by accident) you would need to manually switch it all the time, as there would be no charging on the second battery unless it was in the 2 or 1+2 position. You could get around this using solenoids/contactors/relays, but they're heavy and clunky and don't necessarily solve the problem as you still need to remember to turn them on or off, or if they're keyed you can have other issues as gogmorgo is saying. You can also cause some issues by having a stone dead battery and a fresh battery in the same circuit, as they will try to equalize and it can cause damage. I'd propose instead that you could use a 13V zener diode to trigger a solenoid that would provide charging, in conjunction with the Blue Sea switch. You could leave the switch in the 1 position unless you wanted to start off battery 2, in which case you could switch it to 2 just to start it and then switch it back to 1 once running, however charging would be automatic on battery 2 assuming the alternator output voltage was over 13V as it would then trigger the solenoid to charge it. You might get some nasty solenoid chatter using this in real life, but you shouldn't assuming your alternator has enough jam and you don't throw a massive charge wire onto battery 2. Or it just won't work for some reason I don't know, but that's how it goes sometimes.

Good! Keep yourself busy with all that stuff, it's time to enjoy yourself.

My employer filed for creditor protection a couple days ago, and the actual ramifications of it have become much more clear today. Already there is lessors demanding their assets (aircraft) back, and the owned aircraft that were collateral for loans are likely to be seized shortly as there is very real risk of them being devalued. Without aircraft the operations tend to grind to quite a halt, or even if we have aircraft they need to be turned around to leave the country for winter work, which costs money (that they don't have to spend) and puts them at risk of not being able to be seized (creditors won't allow that either). So it looks like I'm out of a job. At the very least I'm not going back to work even if they want me, as there is a very good chance I won't be paid for anything since once the aircraft are gone the company doesn't have much. I'm not looking to accept a pat on the back and a plane ticket home as payment, if that would even be offered at that point. In light of all of this, I booked some flights to Maui. Screw it.

Chrysler could have made money on it but favoured their own inferior Dakota. Chrysler has always protected their line of lame Dodge trucks, look at all the interest there has been for a Wrangler/Jeep truck for the last 10+ years, yet they won't make one. AMC had dropped the ball on marketing the Comanche, and it was a victim of bad timing given their financial situation, but it could likely have been saved. As why love the Renix system... Why love the OBD-I HO system? I don't look at it and see any upgrade beyond them having put a fuse box in rather than fusible links, but it doesn't have a knock sensor so it certainly went backwards in that regard. Personally I like having a knock sensor. You'll probably counter by saying this forum is full of nothing but Renix guys having problems, which it is, which is logical since the vast majority of the trucks on here use the Renix system as Chrysler was already working hard to kill the Comanche by the time they went to the HO.

Have been for a long time. About as long ago as when Chrysler went backwards from it in the XJ/MJ. Then they killed the MJ off a couple years after that... Not sure why some people endear Chrysler so much.

User error.

I have an open style radiator in my XJ and it has the temperature switch in it. I believe the one in my MJ has the bung for it too. The later later HO thermostat housing has the bung for the switch in it, IIRC. IMHO, I'd not likely ever convert to an open system again given that there is better pressure bottles available now. That was the weak point of the closed system, otherwise it functions perfectly.

At least somebody gets it. All kidding aside, I'd give it a shot. Just be prepared to have a plan for when it goes badly. But I'd do it for the adventure rather than because it's a great truck to bother buying. Unless I was planning to build a wheeler, in which case it's a great starting point.

I'd get the little hydrocarbon coolant tester thingy to determine if the head gasket is shot or the head is cracked. Get somebody that is there to do it for you preferably, if you can trust them to do it. If it passes that, order a radiator/cap, hoses, water pump, tstat, air filter and oil filter off Rockauto, all to their address. Show up with oil, coolant, brake fluid, lots of water, more water, some tools, salty and sugary snacks, 3 changes of underwear, a sleeping bag, towel (do NOT forget a towel), and a roll of duct tape to fix that intake hose again. The truck will make it. Have faith and don't listen to all the Debbie Downers in this thread. Worst case you've got your towel, snacks, and a couple changes of underwear, you don't need more than that to hitchhike home, or across the universe for that matter.

I don't understand Mac/iPhones. Windows 10 takes about 30 minutes to get used to if you've used any of the prior versions, even going back as far as 95... If you really don't like it install Classic Shell. There's actually a couple decent tools out there to really turn back time on it. You can kill Cortana permanently, along with the other embedded "apps" like the M$ Store. Between that and Classic Shell you can make it look and act exactly like whatever version you like.

While it's probably your shackles that are at fault, I'd check for broken springs or center pins, loose ubolts or spring/shackle bolts, and worn out bushings. Normally there's more than one thing to put blame on.

Please tell me it was. Good riddance to the ol' overflowing toilet method of fuel metering.

If he uses a cloud service, yes. But since he has a tablet without cellular connectivity, that would be a terrible idea. I believe he just wants to copy them onto the tablet and done... Which makes sense, assuming it isn't stuff that needs to be updated often. The idiots I work for use cloud services for the manuals and company documents, since it has to be controlled and updated. It does not work. But it's a nice thought, and it makes the regulatory bodies moist in certain areas. Personally I'd fire their entire IT department, but nobody asked me.

A few thousand pages of text is only 10-20mb~, assuming it's reasonably plain. So no, it's not asking a lot. Lots of guys I know put multiple airframe/engine/flight manuals on tablets. Works fine as long as they're the pdf versions. And they tend to have a ton of charts, illustrations, etc, not just plain text.

Do what kryptronic said.

The one on the left has a small crack in it, which has a piece riveted behind it to repair it, and somebody installed an extra cigarette lighter/power plug in it. The one in the middle is a larger one, it extends forwards a bit more, never knew they made them like that. The one on the right looks good too. Pick one if you want one. It's yours for cost of shipping. Only thing is if you want the one on the right I will keep the 4wd shifter blanking plate, unless you really need it, your console should have one though.

I'm in Prince George. I'll get you a pic of the ones I have.

Why not get a factory half console? I've got a couple if you want one.