DirtyComanche

User error.

I have an open style radiator in my XJ and it has the temperature switch in it. I believe the one in my MJ has the bung for it too. The later later HO thermostat housing has the bung for the switch in it, IIRC. IMHO, I'd not likely ever convert to an open system again given that there is better pressure bottles available now. That was the weak point of the closed system, otherwise it functions perfectly.

At least somebody gets it. All kidding aside, I'd give it a shot. Just be prepared to have a plan for when it goes badly. But I'd do it for the adventure rather than because it's a great truck to bother buying. Unless I was planning to build a wheeler, in which case it's a great starting point.

I'd get the little hydrocarbon coolant tester thingy to determine if the head gasket is shot or the head is cracked. Get somebody that is there to do it for you preferably, if you can trust them to do it. If it passes that, order a radiator/cap, hoses, water pump, tstat, air filter and oil filter off Rockauto, all to their address. Show up with oil, coolant, brake fluid, lots of water, more water, some tools, salty and sugary snacks, 3 changes of underwear, a sleeping bag, towel (do NOT forget a towel), and a roll of duct tape to fix that intake hose again. The truck will make it. Have faith and don't listen to all the Debbie Downers in this thread. Worst case you've got your towel, snacks, and a couple changes of underwear, you don't need more than that to hitchhike home, or across the universe for that matter.

I don't understand Mac/iPhones. Windows 10 takes about 30 minutes to get used to if you've used any of the prior versions, even going back as far as 95... If you really don't like it install Classic Shell. There's actually a couple decent tools out there to really turn back time on it. You can kill Cortana permanently, along with the other embedded "apps" like the M$ Store. Between that and Classic Shell you can make it look and act exactly like whatever version you like.

While it's probably your shackles that are at fault, I'd check for broken springs or center pins, loose ubolts or spring/shackle bolts, and worn out bushings. Normally there's more than one thing to put blame on.

Please tell me it was. Good riddance to the ol' overflowing toilet method of fuel metering.

If he uses a cloud service, yes. But since he has a tablet without cellular connectivity, that would be a terrible idea. I believe he just wants to copy them onto the tablet and done... Which makes sense, assuming it isn't stuff that needs to be updated often. The idiots I work for use cloud services for the manuals and company documents, since it has to be controlled and updated. It does not work. But it's a nice thought, and it makes the regulatory bodies moist in certain areas. Personally I'd fire their entire IT department, but nobody asked me.

A few thousand pages of text is only 10-20mb~, assuming it's reasonably plain. So no, it's not asking a lot. Lots of guys I know put multiple airframe/engine/flight manuals on tablets. Works fine as long as they're the pdf versions. And they tend to have a ton of charts, illustrations, etc, not just plain text.

Do what kryptronic said.

The one on the left has a small crack in it, which has a piece riveted behind it to repair it, and somebody installed an extra cigarette lighter/power plug in it. The one in the middle is a larger one, it extends forwards a bit more, never knew they made them like that. The one on the right looks good too. Pick one if you want one. It's yours for cost of shipping. Only thing is if you want the one on the right I will keep the 4wd shifter blanking plate, unless you really need it, your console should have one though.

I'm in Prince George. I'll get you a pic of the ones I have.

Why not get a factory half console? I've got a couple if you want one.

The battery manufacturers push this in an effort to avoid warranty claims. It is somewhat true with certain battery types, in that if they're right dead the charging voltage of the alternator is too low to 'wake' them back up so they take a charge, and you need to basically hit them with a constant current charge to bring them back. Typical lead acid garbage, no, it's just a line.

Bondo is for collision repair, not rust. Chopped mat fiberglass and epoxy resin is for rust!

Stuff in the arctic doesn't rust. I can tell you that for sure... Besides, I'm not made for the heat. I'm white. Like the snow.

Put a tape measure on a 4BT and you'll realize it's a terrible candidate for a swap. Look up those companies selling engines on Pirate first. There's a bunch of them that are crooks, and I don't remember names, but easily some of those may be. Also, if you hotrod a 4BT they tend to explode. Be warned.

Be careful with plating fasteners. Unless you bake them afterwards you have a high risk of causing hydrogen embrittlement. Maybe? The problem with electrolysis is it tends to cause ions of everything involved to wind up in solution. As the point out there is a serious risk if you use stainless steel as the sacrificial anode as it will result in producing a chromate solution, that is extremely toxic and is known to very readily pollute large quantities of ground water, in fact if you produce this solution the only safe was to dispose of it is to evapourate the water off and take the left over powder to a hazmat disposal facility. I guess if you use an anode that is a known alloy of nothing more than iron and some carbon there is no real risk, but like I said I don't know. Iron oxide in water is toxic. There's a threshold that you or I can withstand, but beyond that it will kill. Most vitamin pills actually don't contain iron, as it is something that many people are extremely sensitive to, or if they do it is in very low quantities. If you leave something outside to rust it releases the iron extremely slowly, as it just isn't that soluble, but doing it this way you produce a highly concentrated solution. Like I said, I wouldn't dump it on the ground at my place. I wear a full face respirator when grinding, wire wheeling, etc. And I have airflow and moderate dust control. I drive my 88 in winter. I clean it when I can, but there is nothing that can be done when it is too cold. Actually, there is little risk of corrosion when it is cold and stays cold, as the salt they apply is not able to melt the ice/snow and produce an ionic solution. They do not salt in massive amounts here, unlike in the east where they are subsidizing the salt mines. Salt also is totally ineffective at making the road safer in most conditions, and a sand/gravel mix is luckily mostly preferred. I do not have any significant structural rust problems, AMC did a fairly decent job of designing the uniframe and protecting it with zinc to avoid that. The thin metal of the body is another matter, all the usual places are starting to go in it (rockers, above the wheel wells, floor boards), but that said the body work on the truck was 'fixed' poorly in the past and it is now 30 years old.

I've never done it. I guess if you had a batch tank set aside and sealed when you didn't use it, it wouldn't be a big hassle to drop parts in and let them cook, but the initial setup would take a bunch of time. My concerns: -Most parts I want to remove rust from also have paint I want to remove. The process won't remove paint, but failed paint must be removed before you can repaint, leaving you stuck going back and mechanically removing it or using a chemical stripper. If you go back and mechanically remove it, you might as well have just used that method to take the rust off in the first place. -Most parts I want to remove rust from are very big. IE, an axle housing, or a bed side. To have a tank large enough would require a lot of water, and a lot of space. If it was outdoors that would be great, but half the year water gets really hard if left outside. -The process leaves you with a lot of water and sludge. This water is contaminated with stuff and things, some of which is likely not good. One of the hardest things for me dispose of is contaminated water since I can't dump it on the ground (well, and hey, it would be wrong), can't dump it down the drain (septic, and again, it'd be wrong), and can't really take it many places since it can't be easily recycled (it's not coolant, oil, or fuel, all of which actually have some value in contaminated waste form). -The process takes time. I don't reuse rusted hardware, unless I'm in a hurry, in which case I just give it a quick cleaning of the threads with a wire wheel, slather it in antiseize, and jam it back in. If I have time I'd rather buy a new bolt that I know is not damaged and has the correct thread profile. Other things it might not matter if it takes time, but again, small parts can be cleaned quickly with a wire wheel.

Often I've heard them called inspection covers. I'd say that will be a junkyard part.

Low mileage diesel F-truck = you get to do the first engine change!

Nope. Just turn wrenches on them.

Stopped here today for the hell of it. Okay, maybe there was some fishing involved.

Might be better off with a 'new' engine given the amount of rust on that dipstick. Sucks.