DirtyComanche

If you have trouble with the cable seating far enough for the lock to engage, check to make sure there isn't a broken off drive from the old one in either end of things. If there is it will push the drive part of the new cable out too far to get things to go together.

1980 will be passenger drop tcase. But they're normally clocked down so extreme that you probably won't have to cut the floor. Honestly it shouldn't need firewall work, but what do I know, I never did it. A SBC with a short water pump is considerably shorter than a 4.0L though.

Nothing turns? As in the accessories don't turn? If one of the larger accessories seizes (P/S pump or alt normally) it can actually bind things up enough that it won't be able to start. If you loosen the serpentine belt off it will be obvious.

Might check that positive cable now. Otherwise it's hard to say. Might be a bad starter, might be far worse things. But definitely start with looking at the positive cable. Is it s super slow crank, or just a click and nothing?

Glad somebody caught that.

I believe that was actually meant to be a production vehicle and a handful of them were made... Can't think of the name of it for the life of me.

Don't forget to get longer bumpstops or drop them down.

There's a visual indicator that the lights are on if you walk by either the front or back of the Jeep. If you're turning your lights on during the day and thus forgetting to turn them off, you might want to just get a generic DRL (daytime running light) module and install that instead of turning the lights on. There's also a factory DRL module I believe.

My dealer said no, and wanted to get me the Crown one for $46. I told them to pound sand. So it may be available, but there might not be stock.

If you only change one of the bearings/races it will be much more likely to cause problems than if you do both sides. The new bearing/race assembly will be tighter and shift the carrier the other way somewhat. That said, the gears are probably nicely worn by now so who cares. Might make more noise, but it won't likely cause any problems.

Oh, you're 2wd. The Y-914 is for 4wd applications, and the Y-924 is for 2wd applications. I always forget some people have 2wd trucks.

Yes. And if you delete the EGR you can put a pipe plug in the intake manifold, the hole is the perfect size to tap. Personally I'm torn on if it's something that there's any point in deleting. I don't have it on my XJ because I put a HO intake on it (needed it for clearance), but it's still on my MJ.

ATP sells a replacement. It's listed correctly on Rockauto. ATP Y-914.

That's good to know. Like I said, I didn't order them because I was scared they wouldn't work.

That will happen without rust, and I think I mentioned it? Not sure. The bolts can come loose too, which will give you as much trouble.

Normally motor mounts look torn when they're done anyways. But yes, your problems are suspension related, front suspension related... You can get horrible sway/hopping from the rear shocks being blown out, especially if SOA, but that's a different matter.

Does it come with the blonde?

YJ fan? Y? I mean why...? I changed the oil. Spun the old filter off and hurled it in the trash. Spun the new one on and it turns out it's dented to crap all over the top. And that was the last Renix filter out of the batch I bought a while ago, so I guess I'll go to the parts store tomorrow and buy 5 more.

Probably was just deformed and didn't make decent contact. They stretch out over time and the bolt will bottom the ears before it's actually tight on the post. Or something else is terribly wrong. You can get a new generic negative cable from a parts store for not much. Make sure the stud it connects to on the block is clean and tight too.

The connector on the battery post, or the one on the block?

Can you buy new seals for them? I wish I had them on the highway. But I think I'd rather just go to the new style large one piece window.

Most modern hoses don't have a spring. It's not how they are made anymore, the rubber is thick enough and has a strong enough braid in it to not need a spring. No issues with my springless hoses.

I agree his battery has coded. But I don't want to say "Throw a new one in" without determining that it is charging correctly first... But that's just me. Auto parts stores here don't typically offer to test your dead battery or charging system when you go in to get a new battery. My volt meter often reads 2V low, and that's typical on crusty old clusters and wires, throw 16.5V at a new battery for a while and it'll be as dead as his current one is. Storing batteries in decent conditions while charged does not cause them to die a terribly early death, and 4 years is a terribly early death. That said, we don't know how he charged it or abused it otherwise.

I'm with Gene. Get a real multimeter on it before jumping to conclusions. It does sound like a bad battery, but easily could be overcharging.

I'm saying I don't know. I was going to order them a while back but saw it crosses to the XJ one, which it shouldn't since I believe they are a different size (certainly they're different OEM part numbers). I guess I could go measure... Edit, went to measure and can't tell for sure without pulling a spring out of one of my MJs, which isn't going to happen. They look like they're close though, so maybe they're the same.