DirtyComanche

When I had mine dialed in, I will admit it worked really good. Good power, good fuel economy, and it was dirt simple. Lack of range and the inability to use jerry cans (stuck buying expensive forklift tanks, or using the hack method with grill tanks) was really why I went away from it. The fact that starting it in the cold is just a fight was another issue, but I could deal with that for the most part.

I know a guy with a (non-working) CNG MJ. CNG works good in a local fleet environment (local buses, taxis, etc) as you need a lot of time to fill them, and there's normally almost no filling stations, and range is only so-so. The taxi company here had their own filling station, but they also got massive subsidies to install it. The fuel itself is cheap, the other problems of it are not.

E85 is great for a turbo/supercharger. My old MJ ran on propane, and I still have my plowtruck on propane... I'd probably not do it again though.

Thanks, I wanted a bumper that would still protect the body reasonably, but not stick out too far since the Jeep is pretty low. (I fixed the embed on the video too)

Front bumper is done. I really debated doing a hidden winch, but at the end of the day I'd rather be able to see the cable spool and get at the winch easily, plus there's a lot of brush around here so the bumper does need to protect the sheetmetal a bit. Video for people that like watching them:

Shop around. There's lots of room to move on the pricing of AA stuff.

You could buy actual good LED headlights too...

Interesting box on that thing. Would make a good RV.

Member on here by any chance? I was running to keep up with other people, so didn't have a chance to try to flag him down.

Curious if anyone has a picture of the actual Corbeau brackets? I have a pair of Corbeau seats.

Not really. See Eagle's comment. IMHO it's as likely, if not more likely, to be caused by worn control arm bushings or ball joints as it is steering parts. The track bar/brackets seem to be the most common suspect though, but even if worn out they may not specifically cause issues. Typically it's cumulative wear/stackup of tolerances, as in everything is worn a bit and not one part is really what's throwing it over the edge. Basically look at things and start replacing stuff with whatever looks the worst or has the most play in it, repeat until the issue goes away. Make sure the tires are balanced and haven't developed a bulge or tread separation, and the wheels are true. Look for the track bar bracket egging out the hole on the axle, along with cracks on the uniframe by the steering box and frame side track bar bracket, or the steering box spacer breaking or the bolts coming loose. Upper and lower control arms, make sure the bolts are tight, the holes aren't egged, and the bushings aren't failing. It is a good time to do some upgrades though. I'd order the new style XJ/ZJ steering parts, WJ lower control arms, new stock uppers/bushings, and a new style track bar and frame side bracket (might have to junkyard the bracket). If the wheel bearings and ball joints are worn I'd do them and probably do the u-joints in the axle shafts (or buy CVs) at the same time. I'd highly consider going to the new style knuckles/brakes/wheel bearings at that time. All of this is assuming I planned to keep the truck for a long time and wanted it to be nice, but did not plan to lift it.

I always buy Fel-Pro for that stuff. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=122759&cc=1181584&jsn=439 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=126037&cc=1181584&jsn=449 Don't buy the cork one unless you're planning to do it again. There's also a support strap for the rear of the pan, HOrnbrod has the P/N I believe, it was a later update and was backwards compatible with older models.

What do you plan to make? Most 3D printers do a meh job at best.

Most parts aren't patented, and not reproducing a whole assembly skirts a lot of issues if there is a patent. Or as said, altering it by 20%~. Also, there is laws in most of the western world regarding reproduction/aftermarket service parts that basically say the OEM has to allow them. That way Chrysler can't stick you with having to buy a windshield from them for some outrageous price 30 years later.

That's nice.

I should have said all 3, I skimmed it a bit. A D44 and D60 are not exactly the same shape. I'm sorry my tone is a little sour, 24 hour daylight is starting to get to me.

BTW, that XJ D44 is worth $$$ to somebody. Easy bolt in upgrade.

*Sigh* A front D60 and a rear D60 cover is the same. There's a couple slightly different versions, but they're the same, they swap, whatever. Same number of bolts, same shape, etc. You posted pictures of two D44s. A front D44 also takes the same cover as a rear D44... Please learn to ID axles before you keep telling people you've seen something or other that would be a unicorn if it was true. There was no D60s in the MJ/XJ from the factory.

There is no PCV valve. It's just a CCV system. Both the small line in the back that goes to the intake manifold, and the big line in the front that goes to the airbox, need to be clean/free of obstruction and unbroken, along with the actual baffles in the valve cover (that you can see with the grommets out). If you pull the valve cover off to do the seal you might as well clean out the vent towers/baffles in it.

You can just buy a tank and straps new, and they're cheap. I'd just make the J bolts or buy the XJ ones that are available. The only thing that isn't readily available is a sender/pickup setup. That said, I wouldn't use a MJ tank. I hate steel tanks and would try a Dakota one first if you're dead set on putting one on that side.

For the oil leak, make sure the breathers in the valve cover are correct and functioning too, or it will force oil past whatever seals it can (often the RMS).

With the Ecobox/NP205 it's very similar to stock lengths. YMMV, I have a D60 and a 14 Bolt in it and the front axle is a few inches forwards and the rear an inch back.

I want to move it forwards anyways. The current links are longer than stock, but are straight (totally wrong), I think they're possibly the K80016, but I'm not sure and it doesn't matter, even with the swaybar at the 'correct' 15~ degree up angle there is likelihood of contact. Interestingly the MOOG K80036 is probably another 2.5"~ longer than the K80035, so for a guy with even more lift that might be an option. I'll order some K80035s or equivalent (I can't get that Amazon price here) and start with that.

I agree with HOrnbrod. On that topic I really to need to fix the one on my MJ...