DirtyComanche

As in keeping the factory inverted-Y setup and flipping the tierod on the drivers side, or going to inverted-T and flipping both sides? Wait. I'm not sure if a YJ is inverted-T or inverted-Y from the factory...

And I wish somebody in the aftermarket would start making these stupid things... I need one for my XJ and have had no luck so far.

If you hold the 2dr version up to a 4dr door, it's obvious it won't fit.

Dead robbers are never a bad thing.

[Nelson laugh]Ha ha![/Nelson laugh]

Clean it off with brakeclean and take it for a drive. If it's dropping it will be obvious enough just taking it for a short spin.

I wouldn't buy it because it has been in salt water.

It won't leak even if it falls off the transmission. Most likely front our rear output seal. Input seal might be bad too. As Pete said, it'll be obvious if you look at it.

I had no issues with my Luk master. The slave cylinder, eh, not so much. Centric or Sachs should be okay. Don't get the C-tec Centric stuff. OEM would be good, but I doubt they actually make them still.

How are you trying to get them out? Professionals basically never use penetrating oil. It hardly helps most of the time, if it does anything at all. Every parts can be removed using a combination of brute force and ignorance. Or careful planning and well thought out brute force. You can push them out with the power steering, but personally I normally just use a slide hammer and go full hog on it.

The only difference is the cover VS the other early D35s. The early D35s are sorta better than the later ones since they aren't c-clip, but that's like saying it's sorta better to accidentally break your left hand instead of your right, neither is really any good at the end of the day.

They resell them. It's super easy to steal them, and they can get $50-200 a pop for them depending what they are. If you see a CL ad with multiple tailgates in it, phone and ask for one they don't have listed... See if they say "I"ll have one for you by the weekend" - they're probably stealing them.

Have you priced any of the bolt in D44 front axles? A 'few thousand' won't go far, and it won't do both. The only cheap(ish) one is the TJ Rubicon axle, which isn't much of a real upgrade.

That's not a D60. (Neither of them are. The Comanche has a D44 though.)

+1 for correct pronunciation of Willys. Cool Jeep. Wish I could drop the cash to make mine pretty like that.

Spectra is an OEM for GM. People knock them, but they do make (some) decent parts.

You could. NPT adapters on the drain and fill along with an electric pump. But why? Have you hit it with an IR gun or put a temp probe in it and found there was a problem? It's only fairly recent that consumer grade manual transmission trucks have oil coolers, and that's when combined with 400HP diesels that are rated to tow 24Klbs... I'd put a HD transmission in long before considering modding up the AX-15.

That and a HD clutch option (for the AX-15), if they really thought the clutch was the limiting factor.

I think I meant to post this in tech

Did your mechanic do anything with the clutch? I'm assuming he changed the brake master cylinder, not the clutch master cylinder? You can (and basically have to) bleed the clutch with it installed. There's a line with a bleeder screw on it coming out of the bellhousing where the pressure line goes in. The procedure is to top up the master (you can even leave a fresh bottle of brake fluid upside down in it, just make sure it doesn't spill), then with a helper have them crack the bleed screw AS the clutch pedal is depressed, closing it when the pedal reaches the floor. No, I have no idea why a clutch is bled that way, although I've had good luck doing it the incorrect way like one would bleed brakes (push pedal down, jam it in place, scoot under truck and crack the bleed screw, close it after the fluid squirts out). Another thing to check is that the bushings in the clutch pedal are tight, and that the carpet and underlay isn't stopping you from getting full pedal travel. You really do need nearly full travel to disengage the clutch on these trucks.

I believe there's video of it being dyno'd, or the engine out of it at least.

So we all know that the factory felt the AW4 could handle a greater towing capacity than the AX-15, but does this actually hold true in the real world? Has anyone had a clutch or other AX-15 failure while towing, or while driving around with the truck loaded up heavy? I don't care about the other aspects of this. I personally feel that the AX-15 has no reason to not be able to tow/haul the same as the AW4, meaning that you could reliably tow more than was safe due to other limitations.

Mine isn't useful info, I don't think? I have a SYE.

Yes, that's how fast the needle on the fuel gauge drops.

I forgot about this option.