DirtyComanche

Xwhatever on putting a thermostat back in. It's probably only part of the problem though.

It's closer to 70lbs, that thread is whack. A NP231 is only 65lbs. I could put a 242 on a scale if you really care, but IMHO you're probably pushing your luck even at that weight. Know any young guys that can do the grunt work? It's way less of a pain to do them by hand than with a jack...

According to Rockauto they are unique to that year, which is not surprising, with the exception that they list that some of the manual transmission ones work for 95-96 (I'm guessing a handful of very early 96s might use the 95 ECM, or it's listed wrong, there is a 96 specific ECM listed which is what they normally look like). https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1996,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1180314,electrical,engine+control+module+(ecm+computer),2896

How is it expensive? Looks like it's all just junkyard or generic parts?

If he turns the steering to full right lock and take the drag link end off the pitman arm, it would be easy enough to measure if it will make enough difference or not.

I'm almost certainly heading through Jasper at some point in the summer, I'll let you know.

We don't have the same stores here, but I have 8 or 10 of the same 6 ton ones despite having different brands on them (Princess Auto, Performance Tools, and one other brand, NAPA or something, they're all the same Chinese junk and I'm sure Horror Fraught sells the same). When you buy these make sure to look at them before use, quality control is pretty bad. I have a pair of smaller ones that I basically never use. I had more but I gave some of them away. They're really only good for working on stuff like cars. I hate cars. I wish I had a set of bigger ones. Princess Auto sells some 12 ton ones that are about 20" tall at the lowest setting, they never really go on sale so I haven't bought them. I may make some eventually. I have some 2x4 cribbing that the 6 ton stands sit properly on too. Also, 6 tons rating means you can put about a quarter of that on them comfortably. Yes, they fail and kill people. So bigger is better.

It's only 1" drop. A ZJ one would be 2" drop. It might make enough difference to fix it, but I have my doubts.

Apparently Superior went out of business, guess I missed that, but Yukon makes the same kit. https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=10255 East Coat Gear Supply has it listed at $588. I'd talk to WayneHartwig on Pirate (DiffsOnly) and see what he can do, I'd guess probably right around the $500 mark.

No, I hope they still make it. Superior Gear and Axle, IIRC. I can look when I get in from the shop tonight.

Yup. Especially on some low compression 1960s technology truck motor.

I never really understood the point of it, but you're correct, that is the functional difference. I don't care, I just need a column that isn't screwed that has keys. Or I could rekey the one allegedly good spare I have.

I think you wrote the start of that article to be really confusing, as you listed TJ and WJ blocks as interchanging in the second bullet point, then in a later bullet point indicated they don't interchange with the XJ/ZJ. For a guy thin slicing the article, he will be lead to believe they interchange with the XJ/MJ block as that's the only factory installation of a Renix, and the article is about using a newer engine with Renix controls. IMHO you should have said in that second bullet point that they interchange with each other, but not with the XJ/MJ/ZJ. Anyways, I'd put the HO intake, exhaust, downpipe, TB on and adapt the TPS. Using the HO stuff is cleaner, since you've got the HO head to bolt it to.

No, those are fullsize Jeep truck rockers. J10, J20, Gladiator, etc. They don't list a Comanche option. As said you could try calling him, he might be able to get them, but I doubt it would be any good.

You can replace the E12s with normal ones. There is tons of room.

AFAIK they're functionally the same when used in a manual application? Unless they're column shift? Just don't hook up the interlock cable and it's fine? I'm going to hack the lower flange off it so I can put it in my J10, which will be a manual trans.

Since you're parting that 92, wanna sell me the steering column and ignition key? I seem to have a shortage of columns that aren't screwed.

I've thought about it. There's a truck or two in line before it though. I believe the uniframe is actually still sound, there's no smoking gun that it has yielded behind the cab, it looks like the box literally squished down and pulled the front bulkhead back and the tailgate/lights forward. But who knows until I really look at it. One way or another I think it's still good enough to make a project out of. Hell, it was probably in better shape than my 88, before the whole tree thing.

Get a Super 88 kit. It widens the axle without spacers, and eliminates the C-clips. If I was to run an 8.8 I'd get it.

It's bent. Or the box is at least. The camera doesn't show how bad. The tree that fell on it was supposedly about a foot around. The box is squished down considerably, to the point it pulled the front of it away from the cab. The uniframe appears fine. But short of taking the box off and putting something straight on it, it's hard to say.

Not coming to a build thread near you anytime soon. My buddy sold his house so I had to go get my 86, and my 76 J20. So it's here now. Which means I can't just forget about it. I know, cool starry bra.

Nice, external slave.

Did you buy a tranny without s bellhousing?

There is aftermarket high steer knuckles too. I'm not a huge fan of them, but they're basically meant for this situation.

You're not going to fix that by flipping anything. Look at doing crossover with a WJ knuckle, although I'm not sure if that will work or not. Or do what 90% of people do and bend the drag link for clearance.