DirtyComanche

It depends what year it is. Early ones (89/90) use a pilot bearing that's off the shelf, the later ones use the bushing. When you get the trans back see if the pilot bushing fits nice on the snout of the input shaft. If it doesn't, you need a bearing, which will come with the clutch kit for a 90 XJ/MJ with an AX-15.

Does it restart immediately after it dies?

I'd probably weld it again. I have a cheap stainless one meant for a 91+ on my XJ. Wasn't worth the hassle to make it fit.

Got a voltage gauge? Or multimeter? What's it charging at? Does it restart? Or do you have to charge the battery first?

The CTS is almost certainly the problem. The IAT likely was fairly correct given those ambient temps and the vehicle being stationary. The intake manifold gets heated badly by the exhaust. You can actually test both the CTS and IAT in water with a multimeter if you really want to. The resistance table is on here somewhere, or I can dig it out if you really need.

What was ambient temperature?

I don't think the Moog front bushing is correct, they have it crossed to the XJ front bushing.

Prior to using pilot bearings, pilot bushings were used. That's what is used when bolting a later AX-15 to a Renix, and what you bought. It will work fine. You swapping in a whole external slave trans, or rebuilding the one that's in there?

206 tail rotor blade? Cool project... I toyed with doing an OM617, just never found a good donor car.

It's a welded in nut. Either weld a nut to the broken bolt and turn it out, or get drilling and tap it the next size over. I also believe you can fish a new tab nut in through the front of the frame rail, there is some holes to give you access.

The clip goes on the line first, then the oring/backup ring/oring. Not sure if that's exactly the right clip, but it is something like that and it might just be an updated/universal design, basically if it snaps in and locks it is compatible.

Tires are 265/70R17 (stolen from a JK), so they work out to 31.6" in theory. Gears are 3.55 (automatic gears) with a AX-15, which basically puts it back to stock ratio. Fuel economy was not calculated due to the failed speedometer/odometer, but eyeballing consumption vs the GPS indicated that it was pretty much normal, which is about 17mpg. I can get about 400km out of 55L of fuel.

It depends on tire size. And yeah, you don't want zero for anything that goes faster than about 15mph. 1/16" is a minimum, 1/8" is great. On larger tires (37"+) 1/4" is a better number to go for, especially if you have minimal caster and can't add any; you're sacrificing some tread life for actually being able to keep it on the road. He's got lots of caster... So anywhere between 1/16" and 1/8" will be fine.

You'll get away reusing the driveshaft, the trannies are basically the same length. As to the tcase, you can shift it on the bench and spin the input/outputs to make sure it engages/disengages the front output and will go into low range, and that nothing hangs up while spinning it. Beyond that you can only really check to see if the outputs are obviously loose or the seals worn out. If you suspect it you might be best off to just order a chain and seals, then pop it apart and see if any of the bearings look or feel bad.

My S10 cap is close enough you'd never really know it isn't meant for a MJ... Unless you really look, then you can see the taper is wrong and the angle at the back of the cab isn't quite right, but for an aftermarket piece it's normal for fitment to not be 100% bang on.

I'd look at converting to cables, personally.

That's an interesting story about your family. I definitely recommend you take time to do the trip at some point. There's some more interesting places that we didn't hit, but I planned this to be a pretty quick tour. It would have been mid afternoon on the 7th, if I have my dates right.

Go to a spring shop and have them make a set of 9/16" ubolts.

Maybe in AZ... In the winter I'm often wishing I changed the door seals to help keep the heat in.

100% accurate.

They're torque to yield, no go on reusing them. Basically they stretch out permanently each time you torque them, and they're only meant to do that once. I had a ubolt break and just about kill me in the ensuing chaos. I ranked the experience as about a 0/10.

I recommend it if you have some time. I decided not to go to Banff, since it was farther south than I wanted to go, but if you're coming up it's a great place to go too. It more or less did. I need to find a fan shroud and AUX fan because I'm disappointed that I couldn't do the Canoe Mountain trail. The dead speedo is annoying, I think the cable snapped internally but I'll pull it apart to see at some point. There's some other things that were on the list of stuff to fix before that might have moved up in priority now... The funny thing is that stretch of highway really isn't a big deal compared with lots of highway in BC, certainly not in the summer. I didn't take any pictures there because I've driven it so many times. Do it while you can! There was one slightly boneheaded cop maneuver on highway 5. They had a speed trap on the bottom end of the snowshed. I thought there might be and was going pretty slow, but basically as you got out of the snowshed and faced the blinding sun they were there, so lots of slamming on the brakes and likelihood of fender benders.

So, according to Google that's 2580km. But I could not add in all the side trips, and like I said the odometer (and speedometer) failed in Valemount, so who knows.

Last day was a cannonball run back home. 632km of winding roads and scorching heat. I didn't take many pictures because I mostly just drove. Leaving the Tantalus One of the few lookouts on Hwy 99/Duffy Lake Road, it's too narrow in most places for there to be anywhere to pull out. Last stop for gas and snacks in Quesnel