DirtyComanche

Can you buy new seals for them? I wish I had them on the highway. But I think I'd rather just go to the new style large one piece window.

Most modern hoses don't have a spring. It's not how they are made anymore, the rubber is thick enough and has a strong enough braid in it to not need a spring. No issues with my springless hoses.

I agree his battery has coded. But I don't want to say "Throw a new one in" without determining that it is charging correctly first... But that's just me. Auto parts stores here don't typically offer to test your dead battery or charging system when you go in to get a new battery. My volt meter often reads 2V low, and that's typical on crusty old clusters and wires, throw 16.5V at a new battery for a while and it'll be as dead as his current one is. Storing batteries in decent conditions while charged does not cause them to die a terribly early death, and 4 years is a terribly early death. That said, we don't know how he charged it or abused it otherwise.

I'm with Gene. Get a real multimeter on it before jumping to conclusions. It does sound like a bad battery, but easily could be overcharging.

I'm saying I don't know. I was going to order them a while back but saw it crosses to the XJ one, which it shouldn't since I believe they are a different size (certainly they're different OEM part numbers). I guess I could go measure... Edit, went to measure and can't tell for sure without pulling a spring out of one of my MJs, which isn't going to happen. They look like they're close though, so maybe they're the same.

It depends what year it is. Early ones (89/90) use a pilot bearing that's off the shelf, the later ones use the bushing. When you get the trans back see if the pilot bushing fits nice on the snout of the input shaft. If it doesn't, you need a bearing, which will come with the clutch kit for a 90 XJ/MJ with an AX-15.

Does it restart immediately after it dies?

I'd probably weld it again. I have a cheap stainless one meant for a 91+ on my XJ. Wasn't worth the hassle to make it fit.

Got a voltage gauge? Or multimeter? What's it charging at? Does it restart? Or do you have to charge the battery first?

The CTS is almost certainly the problem. The IAT likely was fairly correct given those ambient temps and the vehicle being stationary. The intake manifold gets heated badly by the exhaust. You can actually test both the CTS and IAT in water with a multimeter if you really want to. The resistance table is on here somewhere, or I can dig it out if you really need.

What was ambient temperature?

I don't think the Moog front bushing is correct, they have it crossed to the XJ front bushing.

Prior to using pilot bearings, pilot bushings were used. That's what is used when bolting a later AX-15 to a Renix, and what you bought. It will work fine. You swapping in a whole external slave trans, or rebuilding the one that's in there?

206 tail rotor blade? Cool project... I toyed with doing an OM617, just never found a good donor car.

It's a welded in nut. Either weld a nut to the broken bolt and turn it out, or get drilling and tap it the next size over. I also believe you can fish a new tab nut in through the front of the frame rail, there is some holes to give you access.

The clip goes on the line first, then the oring/backup ring/oring. Not sure if that's exactly the right clip, but it is something like that and it might just be an updated/universal design, basically if it snaps in and locks it is compatible.

Tires are 265/70R17 (stolen from a JK), so they work out to 31.6" in theory. Gears are 3.55 (automatic gears) with a AX-15, which basically puts it back to stock ratio. Fuel economy was not calculated due to the failed speedometer/odometer, but eyeballing consumption vs the GPS indicated that it was pretty much normal, which is about 17mpg. I can get about 400km out of 55L of fuel.

It depends on tire size. And yeah, you don't want zero for anything that goes faster than about 15mph. 1/16" is a minimum, 1/8" is great. On larger tires (37"+) 1/4" is a better number to go for, especially if you have minimal caster and can't add any; you're sacrificing some tread life for actually being able to keep it on the road. He's got lots of caster... So anywhere between 1/16" and 1/8" will be fine.

You'll get away reusing the driveshaft, the trannies are basically the same length. As to the tcase, you can shift it on the bench and spin the input/outputs to make sure it engages/disengages the front output and will go into low range, and that nothing hangs up while spinning it. Beyond that you can only really check to see if the outputs are obviously loose or the seals worn out. If you suspect it you might be best off to just order a chain and seals, then pop it apart and see if any of the bearings look or feel bad.

My S10 cap is close enough you'd never really know it isn't meant for a MJ... Unless you really look, then you can see the taper is wrong and the angle at the back of the cab isn't quite right, but for an aftermarket piece it's normal for fitment to not be 100% bang on.

I'd look at converting to cables, personally.

That's an interesting story about your family. I definitely recommend you take time to do the trip at some point. There's some more interesting places that we didn't hit, but I planned this to be a pretty quick tour. It would have been mid afternoon on the 7th, if I have my dates right.

Go to a spring shop and have them make a set of 9/16" ubolts.

Maybe in AZ... In the winter I'm often wishing I changed the door seals to help keep the heat in.