DirtyComanche

Check the output voltage on it while cracking. The resistance check doesn't seem to have much validity.

So, stuck valve? Hole in the piston?

It was a big thing in 4x4ing back when gears weren't that low, transmissions only had 3 speeds and engines had 60HP.

That's a score if I ever saw one.

Surprisingly common to see, actually. The neat thing is that more times than not it actually still works out okay enough that it can be driven on, especially if it's a hub centric wheel (which that is, but it's not meant for that hub).

Get pics. I doubt it's factory as there's no evidence they made a bracket to do it. But never say never...

Normally the pins step so bad that it takes tremendous force to move them. I often just cut them and drive the pieces out because of that.

I only drill them a size over because normally the holes are oblonged. It's a case by case thing. I also tried using metric bolts that were just a hair bigger, along with high tolerance bolts (also a hair oversize).

They're just a 1/4" roll pin, IIRC. Maybe they're 3/16"? Sorry, I don't remember. I drill the hinge the next size over and put a bolt in when I make the doors quick removable, and I would probably do that even if I wasn't making them removable.

If there was one thing that was consistent about AMC, it was that they were inconsistent with everything they built.

Correct. There's dynamic seals on both ends. The adapter space is not meant to be sealed and has a drain on the bottom of it. There's some exceptions to this out there in other applications, but every factory trans/tcase combo in a MJ will be like this.

The ATP Y803 or Pioneer CA3004 are likely the best bet. The first one is for cruise control applications, so it's out. And the last one is 100" long, which is insanely long... An 83" cable with screw on ends should be fine.

The Fairchild stuff on Rockauto is listed as being 152"x1.03"x.85". https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1777322&cc=1179996&jsn=1822 I haven't bought it but I don't see why it wouldn't be correct. They also have a kit (2 pieces) that saves a little money. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3385443&cc=1179996&jsn=1825

Sep 8, 8lbs, 22". (Hell if I know )

I think it would look even better with a set of Napiers on it. But that's me.

WayneHartwig/Diffsonly sells new stripper LS harnesses and will redo them too I think, plus programs ECMs. I'd probably use him if he would deal with me on it (won't program out of country stuff), since I buy almost all of my gear/axle stuff from him.

Good looking truck.

He's talking about the seats that have curved sliders. They sit different than the straight slider version.

Some blunt sucker will pay it.

It's a truck, there's supposed to be some rake to it. Otherwise when you put something in the box you'll be looking up at the stars and blinding the world with your headlights.

The supplied lubricant in them isn't very good. I lubed mine with dry graphite before installing it, but I think there's probably better products.

Do you have the trim "seal" installed around it? It's basically there to hide any gaps.

While I'm sure it wouldn't matter that much, the factory glass is curved.

Is WIPP the whole Yucca Mountain thing (as National Geographic put it "Yuck, a mountain, full of radioactive waste" or something to that effect)? Gotta bury that stuff somewhere. And I agree, you won't see salt use decrease in any of those areas because it's such a big industry. I wish they wouldn't salt anything here, it doesn't actually help. If it just stays cold and you put some sand down it works much better, as the sand embeds in the ice and it acts like sandpaper. Even on clear ice in the cold you have great traction. It's the freeze/thaw cycles that salt (and warm weather) introduces that actually make a slick surface (it's cold enough the whole winter that you only get significant freeze/thaw in the spring really, and even that can be combated with just sand).