Ωhm

Should be close enough. Best we can do. MJ_1987_Electrical_Manual_1.pdf

Under normal engine operations, the fuel pump current, flows through the ballast resistor causing a voltage drop to the fuel pump motor. Now when engine is at WOT the O2 Heater relay is activated (O2 Heater OFF) and this will bypass the ballast resistor and apply full battery voltage (B+) to the fuel pump motor (max current). During a WOT condition there is really no need for a O2 Heater, but there is a need for max fuel pump.

Running engine without the ballast resistor just means more fuel through the fuel return line. Pressure will stay the same. EDIT: I was thinking you had RENIX fuel pressure regulator.

Welcome to the CC Forum.

Welcome to the CC Forum. You got your radiator shroud in place? You jumped your AC Low Pressure Switch, does your AC clutch engage when EFan is ON?

Could have been a "must see". John Wick claims to be driving a 1969 Mustang Boss_429, but in reality its a Mustang Mach_I dressed up poorly to look like the Boss.

Don't forget...............

Somebody give me a cheeseburger.

Your video sure does sound like cross-firing. You mentioned 40psi as fuel rail pressure. Does that drop down to 31psi when engine is at IDLE?

Using a voltmeter or 12vdc testlight (preferred) check for B+ on the following pins (use battery negative terminal for ground): D1_5: B+ (Hot at all times) D2_4: B+ (Hot during KEY ON/CRANKING). D1_6: KEY ON (B+ (Hot for 2-3 seconds)) or CRANKING (B+ (Hot during CRANK)).

Maybe fuel line got crossed over somehow. If engine ran before this, it should run after doing this.

Check your Fuel Pump Relay. Swap it out with one of the others or jumper Pin_1 to Pin_4 with relay removed. Check your fusible links at starter relay.

Possible fuel in the hose between the engine manifold and the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) and/or leaky injector(s).

I'm not going to say this will cure your problem but what about backtracking some wires back to there splices. Check the condition of these splices. Splices have been known to be trouble. Trace each wire back to there splices: D1_2 - Splice_B D1_5 - Splice_A D1_6 - Splice_K Also you have not swapped out the ECU? Correct?