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jamcomanche

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  1. I'm really just here to vent so don't mind me. My jeep had the wrong alternator on it when I bought it and the serpentine belt was squeaking like crazy from misalignment. My truck has AC and the non-AC alternator pulley sticks out about 1/4" farther than the pulley matched with AC. I shopped around but wanted one quick and bought a valucraft reman CS130 from Autozone. It looked real clean when it came in. Installed nice and easy, and was charging great for a couple of weeks. One day, I heard what sounded a lot like maybe a leaf had been sucked into the blower motor. Thing was though, the blower wasnt running. The noise got louder with higher RPM. It sounded like something was being flung around inside of a tin can. I couldn't figure out what it was for the life of me and then it stopped. Days went by and then I heard it again. Except this time, I noticed that my battery voltage had started to drop on the dash. It would sit at around 13-14v usually, but it was down to about 10-11. I went out and bought a tester and checked the battery and alternator. Confirmed the alternator was charging low and then noticed these little red shards of metal scattered around the engine bay. After some time with a flashlight and squinting my eyes a lot, I realized that the centrifugal fan inside the back of the alt had splintered into a bunch of little pieces and they were being flung all over the engine bay. I'm getting a warranty replacement which I'll be inspecting the hell out of. But next time I need an alternator Ill be forking over the extra $$ for a better brand.
  2. Thanks. I've been searching around on here about the metal covers. I've been able to find a couple beat YJ covers on ebay but they are wanting $120. I may need to dig around some salvage yards in the area. Unless you guys know a place I could find one.
  3. Have you tried bleeding the line? BTW, If you have any fluid leaking inside the firewall at all, my advice is to go ahead and replace the master cylinder. I had a problem with a slow leak in mine, slow enough that it took a while for the reservoir to go low. After some time though I eventually started seeing puddles on the floor mat. Not to mention it drips right onto the back of the fuse panel and creeps into every terminal. Replacing the master cylinder is really not bad, and you'll have a chance to bleed the lines which may end up being exactly what you need to do. You can do it fairly quickly if you have somebody to help you manage the pedal while you bleed the line underneath. Your bleeder is on the opposite side of the tranny from where the line from the master cylinder goes into it. If you don't have somebody to help with bleeding, you can do what I've done in the past with brakes and use a board just long enough to depress the pedal and wedge it in front of the seat xD. It makes the process take a lot longer though.
  4. This is happening to me now after putting an OEM plastic on. What garbage. Guess I'll start looking for aluminum.
  5. 87 2.5l Ive been struggling to get a replacement valve cover after mine started leaking pretty bad. I've ordered 3 plastic replacements so far. The fitment of the first was off and about 1/2" too long. The second was a Dorman that looked like it had been used with deformed bolt holes and crap all over it. I ordered one more Dorman and installed it today and it had to be pulled apart little bit to line up with the bolt holes, but it fit fine. However .. when the engine is running I can feel physical bumping on the cover with my hand. It makes a very very dull and subtle knock sound and I'm assuming the rockers are bumping the inside of the cover. When feel the head for any kind of vibrations i can't. but the cover gives off some pretty obvious bumps. As far as I know the top end is stock. Does anybody know if those vibrations are normal? Is there a taller cover I should get? This one was supposed to be direct replacement.
  6. this is an old post, but i locked my keys out today and after trying various things, the method that worked for me was straightening out a coat hanger with a hook at the end, slipping it down between the window and the door and just grabbing whatever i could around the handle and lock cylinder area, pulling it away from the door handle toward the front of the truck. it only took me a few tries and it popped the lock pretty easily.
  7. There are 3 wires that come out of the socket. The 2 that come out of the end of the socket are your switch and signal wires, these are usually blue and gray, or blue and brown depending on the side of the truck. The 3rd wire goes to the outside of the socket in a separate outlet. I swapped the two wires that I had connected the blue and gray / blue and brown wires to. So for me, instead of blue connecting to blue on the harness, I had to connect blue to gray, and blue to brown on the other side. I tried uploading an image to help but it failed for some reason.
  8. What do you mean by "complete?" Are you saying you need to buy other parts separately to support the lift? I've been looking to lift mine about 2-3" to get rid of some tire rub that's happening and I've come across these two places. Rusty's Offroad Jackit (Rough Country kits) Their kits look pretty complete, but I might not be considering everything.
  9. I went out this morning and swapped connections on the non-ground wires (blue+brown/blue+gray) so that the blue was connected to the brown/gray on either side and that has fixed my problem. It's funny to me that both sockets had the same wire colors as the wiring harness, yet they were colored backwards. Definitely can't be the stock sockets. Signals are working perfectly now with lights on or off. Thanks for your help
  10. How hard was it getting the RMS out? Did you do it without removing the crank and do the cut/feed/rtv trick?
  11. Ok, fair enough. I also have no idea if the sockets that came with the truck even belong to it, so I'll try flipping them around and see what happens. I used WD-40 Electrical Contact Cleaner spray which does a good job at cleaning up corrosion with the help of a brush. The S-77 fits the housing perfectly. I was mainly curious about it because of the wire colors. Thanks to you all for the advice. I'm going to start with flipping the connections. If that doesnt work I'll probably tap a new ground near the lights. If neither of those work I'll buy new sockets.
  12. Can anybody confirm the socket type that is supposed to go in the front signal lamps? The ones I have are S-77 three-wire sockets, which I don't show as being standard for AMC/Dodge/Jeep. I can only find the S502's as being standard for the rear lamps.
  13. I was thinking that this could be a possible cause, but that makes me think that the wiring harness would have to have been altered further up the chain. This is the diagram I used to wire up the light sockets. I connected the wires for the park/turn lamps by color. Anyway, I'll have to do some more troubleshooting and check further up the harness I guess.
  14. Yeah, the sockets are in good shape. I even cleaned them up a bit myself. If I can't find any other possible solution and tapping a new ground for them doesnt work, then ill probably order some new ones.
  15. You have oil on your starter. Looks like I'm too late and It may not be the same issue obviously, but my 87 has a steady oil leak that is dripping in the same location as yours. I degreased everything and have been monitoring it for a few days. The first day I noticed that oil was dripping down the starter, just like yours. I was able to trace the leak up to the distributor. I'm ordering a distributor mount gasket today.
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