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Man, it just sounds like excess of fuel, leaking between STARTS.

Three (3) things hold fuel rail pressure. Check ball at the fuel pump. Leak here doesn't fit the symptom. Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR), check for fuel in the vacuum hose between FPR and intake manifold. That leaves leaky injector(s).

Could be the vent for the Fuel Pressure Regulator Spring Chamber. Possible leaky diaphragm.

Leaky injector(s). Check fuel rail for loss of pressure when engine is OFF.

Put a 12vdc Test Light on your list.

PM sent.

I missed the part in your signature about 94 Engine and Drivetrain swap. I'm looking at the 88 wiring diagrams. It shows the following: ECU INPUTS: AC Request & AC Select ECU OUTPUTS: AC Clutch Relay

Did I miss something here. Doesn't ECU also control the AC Clutch Relay?

Someone here at sometime had a similar problem. Everything worked, but no CRANK, his starter was loose (no starter ground). Its a quick check.

You mentioned no loss of power with KEY ON or during CRANK. IGN SW C268_B3 seem to be HOT (B+).

You got one (1) wire between IGN SW & Starter Relay. Check for OPEN circuit.

When engine fails to START/CRANK, do you lose power to everything? When this happens do you lose power to everything with the KEY ON?

At Fuel Pump Motor, disconnect C139. On the Fuel Gauge side of the harness, ground C139_B. KEY ON. Does Fuel Gauge read Empty? On the Fuel Sender side of harness take continuity test between C139_B and ground. Does ohmmeter read between 0-88 ohms?

Fuel Pump has three (3) sources for voltage. 1. Starter Relay during ENGINE CRANK (Battery voltage). 2. Fuel Pump Relay during KEY ON (2-3 seconds)/ENGINE RUNNING (Battery voltage - Ballast Resistor voltage drop). 3. Wide Open Throttle (WOT) (Battery voltage). O2 Heater Relay serves two (2) purposes. 1. When relay is de-energized (OFF), O2 Heater circuit is ON. KEY ON voltage is supplied for 2-3 seconds since its being fed (B+) by the Fuel Pump Relay (engine fuel prime/heater ON). ENGINE RUNNING voltage is fed by the Fuel Pump Relay all the time (fuel pump running w/ballast voltage drop & heater ON). 2. During WOT, O2 Heater Relay is energized (ON) and voltage is supplied directly to the fuel pump, by passing the Ballast Resistor.

Hope those are beers & cheers and not beers & tears. Playing the Blues tune makes me think it could be the latter.

Don't know Parts. My train of thoughts was larger tank might need shorter fuel filler neck or vice a versa.

Funny how no 16 gallon tanks have showed up yet, but I've only look at 25 VINs.

Using your Sales Code Decoder per VIN (nice job by the way), three (3) different size Fuel Tanks (gallons) show up. 18.5, 20 & 23. Do all three tanks use the same filler neck? I'm wondering if there could be a mismatch between Tank size and Filler Neck.

If Intermittent Wiper/Washer Module is bypassed. Yes, bad switch or wires to/from switch.

Your vehicle is being difficult. You mention that your O2S came to life after some light accelerations. During this condition exhaust manifold acts like a blow torch and possibly heated up the O2S. I know you have check out the O2S Heater circuit for continuity and the REM shows O2S Heater voltage. But you'll need to tax (current flow) this circuit. O2S Heater element is 6ohms, so ≈12vdc÷6ohms=≈2amps. Remove O2S Heater Relay. Connect Amp Meter between Battery Positive and C228_3(87a) on the O2S Heater Relay Block. Does circuit flow ≈2amps of current?

Disconnect C171. Connect Testlight to good ground. Probe C171_D. KEY ON. Does Testlight shine brightly? If yes, jumper C171_D to C171_B. KEY ON. Does Washer Pump run?

KEY ON, Push Washer Switch.

Connect Test Light between C169_B and Battery Negative (-). Does Test Light glow? Next step: Connect clip side of Test Light to Battery Positive (B+). Probe C169_A. Does Test Light glow?

How did you hook up the Test Light? Between C169B(+) & C169A(-) or between C169B(+) & good ground.

Keep the bed, add duallies. Should make you the talk of the town.