a bum with money

my mj is getting lousy mpg, and hard start when warmed up. I have the renix engine monitor v2 and going through the check list of readings everything checks ok except the coolant sensor ( engine block ) temp doesn't move above 104 degrees when at 200 =/- degrees warm, also its in open loop and running rich. doesn't look too easy to get to behind the left engine mount. before I go through all that work to replace it is there a way to test the sensor while it's still in the engine? also is there a best, better, or worse brand for this animal? part #'s would be great. also is it possible to upgrade to the H.O. system w/o doing a complete renix to H.O. swap? 1988 MJ 4.0l, AT, 2WD, no A/C thanks Bryce

I saw those. but mine are the caliper bolts with the 6 point star head that held the caliper to the knuckle.

success! I was able to weld a 5/8" thread nut on the caliper nut and it was a cinch to get it out and proceed with the ball joint replacement. thanks again to the members for their input. greatly appreciated! Bryce

I agree

yes I did and broke two sockets trying. but I like the welding idea

or well is there any disadvantage using the hex head bolts over the OEM? they are 10.9 grade just for the hell of it shoot me a price with approx shipping I'm @ 97211 area code

I like that. I do have a welder, but in order to do this I still have to remove the knuckle assembly of the front axle. which I'm to do w/o a gas torch set-up. but I do have an 8# sledge and a good size pickle fork. thanks

I'm replacing all ball joints on my 88 MJ, 2wd 4.0l, auto, big ton. I've tried a series of ideas trying to remove a stripped caliper bolt head, no luck. it's the LH upper 6 point bolt head. one question is I was going to replace all 4 caliper bolts with a flange hex head bolts unless someone can suggest a different solution. from my understanding these bolt types were changed in 1990? right now I'm unable to remove the rotor hub assembly. was going to disconnect the brake line at the caliper and tie rod and remove the entire assembly as a whole and take it to a machine shop to have the bolt removed. another idea was once I've removed the knuckle assembly, could one grind off the caliper bolt head and then remove the caliper from the knuckle? I'm sure this has happened before and would like some direction as to a solution. appreciate your opinions thanks Bryce

year: 1988 build date: N/A pic: N/A condition: good miles: 127k engine 4.0l 2WD, AW4 trans D44 locker, long bed, BIG TON MODEL: base color: EXT/INT WHITE/TAN MISC: bench seat, column shift location: Oregon/Tennessee ( spent most of its life as a maintenance truck on a public golf course on propane fuel. ) since removed. status: running/project current owner: myself

what he said, well worth the money, saved me $100's of dollars. You might check your cat converter with temp sensor gun, it should be cooler temps on the back end then the front end. if their the same temp on both ends you probably need a new cat. that was how my local Midas muffler shop did, and he was correct! PS: like the comment under the remarks: GROSS POLLUTER. that is why people are leaving Kalfornia.

did that work for you? if it did what colors (2001 xj) did you match to your MJ? the 2001 motor that received from rockauto pn #85477 had black, green, yellow, red, white wires. I'm trying to match the two motors side by side and the colors aren't making any sense to me. Bryce

actually I did. mine is still original and its on my to do list. I was just wanting to know the standard for testing the condition of 12v motors in general. I've seen some articles mentioning .5 ohms or less, I hate to just throw money at a problem until I'm 99% sure that I found it. I've sold my XJ's, but just can't let go of my MJ ps I do need to go through the list again.

I suffer from the slow wiper and blower motors on my 88 mj no a/c, I going to do the upgrade to the 97+ wiper motor, that's a given. In regards to testing the resistance of these to motors, am I to believe that .5 or lower is the standard for being ok? my blower tested @ 10.5 ohms, and the wiper tested @ 45 ohms, signifying that both motors need replacing. thanks in advance Bryce

just to confirm your statement I pulled the instrument assy. out to test the gauge itself. looking at a wiring dia. the ignition side powers all the gauges and the other side of said gauge goes to the sender it is connected to. regarding the oil gauge with the key in the run position I get 10.9v but on the sender side I get .25v. shouldn't it be the same voltage on the sender side too? when I tested the water gauge I had the same voltage on both sides. if the gauge is bad will an HO(94) oil gauge work in its place?

recently my oil gauge stop working. no matter what I do, sender wire disconnected, wire grounded, the gauge does not move. it stays @ 0. all the other gauges are still working, as far as I can tell it's only the oil gauge that's affected. using a ohm meter set at 200 with key off: 1. .4 ohms @ sender wire (disconnected) 2. 30.+/- ohms @ sender itself (wire disconnected) 3. .4 ohms @ sender w/sender wire attached 4. gauge does not move with key in run position: 1. 34.+/- @ sender wire (disconnected) 2. same as #2 above 3. 34.+/- ohms w/sender wire connected 4. gauge does not move with engine running: 1. 34.+/- ohms does not change with RPMs 2. gauge does not move my thinking is that the sender wire is broken or grounded some how or the gauge is broken. I'm not quite sure as to how to trace this problem. start at gauge or at sender? about 4 years ago I upgraded to full gauges and installed a new sender w/gauges, worked great until recently. there hasn't been any recent work done, and I still drive the rig, oil is topped off, still have good oil pressure. 1988 MJ, 4.0L, AT, 2WD 127k miles