oldmanche

Updating an old post to help anyone who runs into similar problems. I finally passed a couple years back thanks to the advise of a 4.0L smog guru. Even though I had replaced O2 with the NTK, he had me replace it with another NTK - said he had been seeing new 02's out of spec. It passed, but not by much. Now I need to figure out why it is not passing this year. My "guru" was older and appears to have retired. I am having the same issues on NO, likely a lean condition. I will update when I find it, but I am thinking it is vacuum since my vent controls stopped working. I wish there was a reasonably priced option to see what OBDI could tell me.

If you were willing to drive a lot. I am in So Cal.

I have owned both. The long bed has a longer wheelbase and is longer past the rear axle. It can be an issue off-road, but I thought the ride was much nicer. I also like the look when lifted and 31’s. If you don’t plan on abusing the truck off road, I would take a long bed.

They look great. At $200 each they better. I guess that price point is not much different than modern lights, and with this upgrade you might be able to skip the relay harness. Still, wow that's expensive.

Is it stuck in the center? If so sanding and PB blaster can help. If it's not the center, I've had a worn drum stuck before where a lip formed inside the drum so the brake shoe was holding it up. I had to adjust the brakes (loosen) and then it came off.

He said he just removed them from the clips and carefully bent them to reroute. He is not finished with the build and has not added points to secure to replace the support lost where they were clipped in yet.

My son ran into the same issue with the CavFab kit. Everyone says XJ/MJ stuff is 100% compatible but reality is there are some differences because the bracing under there is different. I believe he was able to take off the bracket holding the lines and relocate it without too much trouble. I'll ask him and try to get back to you.

Brochure lists what the off road package included

Thanks. Was planning on skipping the C101 cleaning and go straight to the bypass but life has had other plans for my time. If I can’t get to it soon I will do the two CPS wires. Smal amount of time to save a ton later stuck on a trail.

Finally got off hard labor detail and back to the truck. Cleaned the C101 and also checked CPS output, thus unplugging it and plugging it back in. Was putting out somewhere between .3 and .4. CPS connections looked clean so I did nothing but plug it back in and she started right up. Thanks guys. It had a very high idle - over 2,000 RPM so I immediately shut it down. Got the REM hooked up and it looked like the IAC was really open. Unplugged the relays and RPM at start up dropped to only about 1,500 the slowly fell. After starting a few times it went back to "normal" but when cold idle is low. I'm guessing I'm ok since everything looked ok on the REM I think.

Thanks

Thanks. Hopefully I can try to unplug and plug tomorrow. If that does not work I guess I’ll test it.

It was manual when I bought it - I think it's factory

Honey due yardwork - probably will be Monday by the time I'm set free

It's manual. I used the Auto TPS when I replaced it about two years ago