oldmanche

Updating an old post to help anyone who runs into similar problems. I finally passed a couple years back thanks to the advise of a 4.0L smog guru. Even though I had replaced O2 with the NTK, he had me replace it with another NTK - said he had been seeing new 02's out of spec. It passed, but not by much. Now I need to figure out why it is not passing this year. My "guru" was older and appears to have retired. I am having the same issues on NO, likely a lean condition. I will update when I find it, but I am thinking it is vacuum since my vent controls stopped working. I wish there was a reasonably priced option to see what OBDI could tell me.

If you were willing to drive a lot. I am in So Cal.

I have owned both. The long bed has a longer wheelbase and is longer past the rear axle. It can be an issue off-road, but I thought the ride was much nicer. I also like the look when lifted and 31’s. If you don’t plan on abusing the truck off road, I would take a long bed.

They look great. At $200 each they better. I guess that price point is not much different than modern lights, and with this upgrade you might be able to skip the relay harness. Still, wow that's expensive.

Is it stuck in the center? If so sanding and PB blaster can help. If it's not the center, I've had a worn drum stuck before where a lip formed inside the drum so the brake shoe was holding it up. I had to adjust the brakes (loosen) and then it came off.

He said he just removed them from the clips and carefully bent them to reroute. He is not finished with the build and has not added points to secure to replace the support lost where they were clipped in yet.

My son ran into the same issue with the CavFab kit. Everyone says XJ/MJ stuff is 100% compatible but reality is there are some differences because the bracing under there is different. I believe he was able to take off the bracket holding the lines and relocate it without too much trouble. I'll ask him and try to get back to you.

Brochure lists what the off road package included

Thanks. Was planning on skipping the C101 cleaning and go straight to the bypass but life has had other plans for my time. If I can’t get to it soon I will do the two CPS wires. Smal amount of time to save a ton later stuck on a trail.

Finally got off hard labor detail and back to the truck. Cleaned the C101 and also checked CPS output, thus unplugging it and plugging it back in. Was putting out somewhere between .3 and .4. CPS connections looked clean so I did nothing but plug it back in and she started right up. Thanks guys. It had a very high idle - over 2,000 RPM so I immediately shut it down. Got the REM hooked up and it looked like the IAC was really open. Unplugged the relays and RPM at start up dropped to only about 1,500 the slowly fell. After starting a few times it went back to "normal" but when cold idle is low. I'm guessing I'm ok since everything looked ok on the REM I think.

Thanks

Thanks. Hopefully I can try to unplug and plug tomorrow. If that does not work I guess I’ll test it.

It was manual when I bought it - I think it's factory

Honey due yardwork - probably will be Monday by the time I'm set free

It's manual. I used the Auto TPS when I replaced it about two years ago

I am cleaning my C101 and noticed the male end has 13 connectors and the female only has 10 on the right "C" shaped side. Just wondering if anyone knows why?

I parked the truck a few months ago. It's a 1988 Chief. It ran OK when I parked it. Underpowered and occasional fast idle but always started right up and moved down the road.. The plan was to do some diagnostics (compression and leak down) to see just how wore out the motor is and continue on the ground refresh and vacuum line diagnostics/replacement. Truck has about 300k on it but PO said it had been rebuilt but I doubt it. Last night I tried to start it - crank but no start. Battery was not great so I charged it overnight and have the same condition this morning. Used quick start - easy way to rule out fuel as the issue. Pulled a plug and I'm not getting spark. Given it always started great when I parked it a few months ago, I'm looking to see what others think are the most likely issues I should be looking at.

Really happy with my Falken Wildpeak's. Have run them on the MJ, an XJ and a Suburban. Good road manners and great off road - at least in the terrain out her in the west. The BFG K02's were great as long as I did not need to drive on wet roads where they were scary - had those on an XJ.

1987 in Wilmington, CA Pick Your Part arrived in yard 2/22/22 - no other info available.

@ Pete M I added. I know there was a post from someone in So Cal looking for a tailgate but can't seem to find it.

1988 in Wilmington, CA Pick Your Part arrived in yard 2/23/22 - no other info available.

It's rare here in So Cal I see a Comanche come to a local pick your part. Yesterday one came into the yard and today another. https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/locations/LKQ_Pick_Your_Part_-_Wilmington_-_Help_Yourself-262/recents/?search=jeep+comanche . One is a 1988 and the other a 1987. Both looked rust free and lot's of cool stuff - especially the 1987 with black interior, tow mirrors, flares.... Wish I did not have to work today.

I have not passed smog and I am reviving my old post looking for help. Quick rundown, it passes everything except 25mph in second gear, which is about 2,000 RPM. Test results have high NO and no CO - indicates a lean condition. It's threw a lean code a year ago and we replaced injectors with 4 hole and fixed vacuum leaks in the fuel rail, regulator and a couple hoses. Could hear the leaks before but now can't hear any. I've used a smoke machine and it looks like I have that eliminated and I have not had another code. Most advice was either vacuum or O2, so I tried to test the O2. I had some trouble back probing the O2 sensor to test the low voltage wire (high voltage and grounds were OK since I could test unplugged). Yesterday we were at the JY getting some parts for my daughters 1995 XJ and I snagged both plug ends for the O2 sensor to make a connector with pigtails I can test with. Using a digital multimeter we were getting +12V on the high voltage (more like 15v). I used the analog meter (Gardner Bender GMT318) on the low voltage and it swung 0 to 1 at idle and and .4 to .5 at 2,000 RPM, but every second or two it would spike to 1v. So is this analog meter up to the task, and if so does the occasional swing to 1V create my lean condition? Thanks!

1991 Jeep MJ 4.0L/AX-15/NP231/D30/D35 white short bed Southern California Daily driver - once I get the smog issue figured out - it's in great shape and runs great. All mods done by PO - Snug-top MJ specific top, front & rear bumper, MJ bucket seats (he tossed bench )

I have contemplated doing this on my 1998 but I'm a long way from starting on it. The best info I have found was on NAXJA - I have the link saved https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970. The post was for swapping the AW4 between years but you may find it helpful. The post seems to indicated 95 into an 89 is bolt-in as long as you get the 95 t-case - not sure if that is relevant with the BA10. Also states the trans/TCM wiring from 87-96 is the same so you could get that from a wide range of donors if it is not already on your truck. I think you also will need to get a TPS if yours does not already have the plug for trans.