DirtyComanche

The battery manufacturers push this in an effort to avoid warranty claims. It is somewhat true with certain battery types, in that if they're right dead the charging voltage of the alternator is too low to 'wake' them back up so they take a charge, and you need to basically hit them with a constant current charge to bring them back. Typical lead acid garbage, no, it's just a line.

Bondo is for collision repair, not rust. Chopped mat fiberglass and epoxy resin is for rust!

Stuff in the arctic doesn't rust. I can tell you that for sure... Besides, I'm not made for the heat. I'm white. Like the snow.

Put a tape measure on a 4BT and you'll realize it's a terrible candidate for a swap. Look up those companies selling engines on Pirate first. There's a bunch of them that are crooks, and I don't remember names, but easily some of those may be. Also, if you hotrod a 4BT they tend to explode. Be warned.

Be careful with plating fasteners. Unless you bake them afterwards you have a high risk of causing hydrogen embrittlement. Maybe? The problem with electrolysis is it tends to cause ions of everything involved to wind up in solution. As the point out there is a serious risk if you use stainless steel as the sacrificial anode as it will result in producing a chromate solution, that is extremely toxic and is known to very readily pollute large quantities of ground water, in fact if you produce this solution the only safe was to dispose of it is to evapourate the water off and take the left over powder to a hazmat disposal facility. I guess if you use an anode that is a known alloy of nothing more than iron and some carbon there is no real risk, but like I said I don't know. Iron oxide in water is toxic. There's a threshold that you or I can withstand, but beyond that it will kill. Most vitamin pills actually don't contain iron, as it is something that many people are extremely sensitive to, or if they do it is in very low quantities. If you leave something outside to rust it releases the iron extremely slowly, as it just isn't that soluble, but doing it this way you produce a highly concentrated solution. Like I said, I wouldn't dump it on the ground at my place. I wear a full face respirator when grinding, wire wheeling, etc. And I have airflow and moderate dust control. I drive my 88 in winter. I clean it when I can, but there is nothing that can be done when it is too cold. Actually, there is little risk of corrosion when it is cold and stays cold, as the salt they apply is not able to melt the ice/snow and produce an ionic solution. They do not salt in massive amounts here, unlike in the east where they are subsidizing the salt mines. Salt also is totally ineffective at making the road safer in most conditions, and a sand/gravel mix is luckily mostly preferred. I do not have any significant structural rust problems, AMC did a fairly decent job of designing the uniframe and protecting it with zinc to avoid that. The thin metal of the body is another matter, all the usual places are starting to go in it (rockers, above the wheel wells, floor boards), but that said the body work on the truck was 'fixed' poorly in the past and it is now 30 years old.

I've never done it. I guess if you had a batch tank set aside and sealed when you didn't use it, it wouldn't be a big hassle to drop parts in and let them cook, but the initial setup would take a bunch of time. My concerns: -Most parts I want to remove rust from also have paint I want to remove. The process won't remove paint, but failed paint must be removed before you can repaint, leaving you stuck going back and mechanically removing it or using a chemical stripper. If you go back and mechanically remove it, you might as well have just used that method to take the rust off in the first place. -Most parts I want to remove rust from are very big. IE, an axle housing, or a bed side. To have a tank large enough would require a lot of water, and a lot of space. If it was outdoors that would be great, but half the year water gets really hard if left outside. -The process leaves you with a lot of water and sludge. This water is contaminated with stuff and things, some of which is likely not good. One of the hardest things for me dispose of is contaminated water since I can't dump it on the ground (well, and hey, it would be wrong), can't dump it down the drain (septic, and again, it'd be wrong), and can't really take it many places since it can't be easily recycled (it's not coolant, oil, or fuel, all of which actually have some value in contaminated waste form). -The process takes time. I don't reuse rusted hardware, unless I'm in a hurry, in which case I just give it a quick cleaning of the threads with a wire wheel, slather it in antiseize, and jam it back in. If I have time I'd rather buy a new bolt that I know is not damaged and has the correct thread profile. Other things it might not matter if it takes time, but again, small parts can be cleaned quickly with a wire wheel.

Often I've heard them called inspection covers. I'd say that will be a junkyard part.

Low mileage diesel F-truck = you get to do the first engine change!

Nope. Just turn wrenches on them.

Stopped here today for the hell of it. Okay, maybe there was some fishing involved.

Might be better off with a 'new' engine given the amount of rust on that dipstick. Sucks.

Pictures? I'm guessing the control arm drop bracket braces don't fit because the crossmember needs to be in the back set of holes (used for all later 4.0L applications). I think Pete was making a list of driveshaft lengths. I don't know what you're intending to do with the truck, but if I was you I'd buy a SYE and get a new double cardan shaft made.

^^^ I'd have that stuff ripped out and replaced ASAP. But that's me. I've rewired most of my house and did my shop from scratch, along with a large part of a few camps.

More big wheels.

The yellow swoosh things on them are weighted and on a bearing, so they don't spin with the wheel, they just hang at the bottom all the time. Or so I'd @$$ume.

I haven't had any issues with the 'better' Stants. P/N 45359. The 13009 is the cheap one that everyone buys (currently listed for $1.88 CAD, that's like $1.25 US) and complains is a POS; well, when you pay less for the thermostat than you do for a can of Coke from a vending machine, you shouldn't expect good results. But, as I've explained before, I can't really buy Mopar stuff for any sort of reasonable price. Crown, Omix-ADA, Rugged Ridge, etc, can stuff it.

Get a picture of the tank. My bet is your pickup is not in the bottom, or the vent tube is too long. Unless somebody has swapped some random tank out of something else in there. In which case you can get 4 more gallons just buy ordering the Spectra tank for $65. Oh, put the right thermostat in.

That's a whole lotta nope topped with some extra nopeiness.

The ones that look like it's a threaded stud aren't what they appear. It's just a push on single pin connector thing that grips the 'threads'. Later years used an actual plug for the temp sender too.

Will Chevy 2" drop shackles actually give you 3" of lift? I thought it would be less, 2" or maybe 2.5". Which puts you at 1"-1.5" of lift on a 4wd. Those RE coils will likely come out a little high, more like 4" on a 4wd. I have them matched with a SOA using 2wd leaf springs! Buy the Bilstein shocks for the front. Measure whatever you do in the rear and buy a Bilstein that fits. With that much lift you can either do things wrong or right. Right would be a long arms, track bar and bracket, aftermarket steering, longer brake lines, etc. Wrong would be to do anything less. I have RE adjustable upper control arms and fixed lowers, and I really regret not just buying or building long arms. I have YJ brake lines and a Dakota line for the rear. And I've got an aftermarket track bar (RC I think) that's a piece of junk and I flipped the tie rod (plus used the late model XJ drag link and ZJ tie rod). Again, that could be better.

If he still is using the closed cooling system he will have to plug the overflow port on the fill neck, or else the cap will vent coolant out it once it hits specified pressure.

Yes, but you should always keep it clean and plan out your work to minimize risk. Nothing on the floor, no rags lying around, no open solvents, flammable materials moved away or secured in cabinets (that includes things like a cardboard box with parts in it), etc. Get a welding blanket or 5 and use them to help contain/direct any sparks or slag. Always clean up after welding, ventilate the garage so the fumes don't enter the house, and wait at least a half hour to make sure nothing is smouldering before leaving. Have a real fire extinguisher on hand, or a couple. When I built my shop I did a concrete pony wall around the perimeter of it, as it greatly reduces the chance of slag, sparks, hot metal, etc from running under the edge of the wall and getting into the framing. I also put everything in the shop on casters so I can move things around to sweep under them, so I don't have a buildup of sawdust or other flammable materials on the floor.

It's to keep sparks out of your ears more than anything, although a wirefeed welder is actually quite loud and you will notice it hurting your ears if you weld for a long time. I don't use plugs but probably should... And I should have a proper respirator given the amount of welding I will often do at one time.