DirtyComanche

Pictures? I'm guessing the control arm drop bracket braces don't fit because the crossmember needs to be in the back set of holes (used for all later 4.0L applications). I think Pete was making a list of driveshaft lengths. I don't know what you're intending to do with the truck, but if I was you I'd buy a SYE and get a new double cardan shaft made.

^^^ I'd have that stuff ripped out and replaced ASAP. But that's me. I've rewired most of my house and did my shop from scratch, along with a large part of a few camps.

More big wheels.

The yellow swoosh things on them are weighted and on a bearing, so they don't spin with the wheel, they just hang at the bottom all the time. Or so I'd @$$ume.

I haven't had any issues with the 'better' Stants. P/N 45359. The 13009 is the cheap one that everyone buys (currently listed for $1.88 CAD, that's like $1.25 US) and complains is a POS; well, when you pay less for the thermostat than you do for a can of Coke from a vending machine, you shouldn't expect good results. But, as I've explained before, I can't really buy Mopar stuff for any sort of reasonable price. Crown, Omix-ADA, Rugged Ridge, etc, can stuff it.

Get a picture of the tank. My bet is your pickup is not in the bottom, or the vent tube is too long. Unless somebody has swapped some random tank out of something else in there. In which case you can get 4 more gallons just buy ordering the Spectra tank for $65. Oh, put the right thermostat in.

That's a whole lotta nope topped with some extra nopeiness.

The ones that look like it's a threaded stud aren't what they appear. It's just a push on single pin connector thing that grips the 'threads'. Later years used an actual plug for the temp sender too.

Will Chevy 2" drop shackles actually give you 3" of lift? I thought it would be less, 2" or maybe 2.5". Which puts you at 1"-1.5" of lift on a 4wd. Those RE coils will likely come out a little high, more like 4" on a 4wd. I have them matched with a SOA using 2wd leaf springs! Buy the Bilstein shocks for the front. Measure whatever you do in the rear and buy a Bilstein that fits. With that much lift you can either do things wrong or right. Right would be a long arms, track bar and bracket, aftermarket steering, longer brake lines, etc. Wrong would be to do anything less. I have RE adjustable upper control arms and fixed lowers, and I really regret not just buying or building long arms. I have YJ brake lines and a Dakota line for the rear. And I've got an aftermarket track bar (RC I think) that's a piece of junk and I flipped the tie rod (plus used the late model XJ drag link and ZJ tie rod). Again, that could be better.

If he still is using the closed cooling system he will have to plug the overflow port on the fill neck, or else the cap will vent coolant out it once it hits specified pressure.

Yes, but you should always keep it clean and plan out your work to minimize risk. Nothing on the floor, no rags lying around, no open solvents, flammable materials moved away or secured in cabinets (that includes things like a cardboard box with parts in it), etc. Get a welding blanket or 5 and use them to help contain/direct any sparks or slag. Always clean up after welding, ventilate the garage so the fumes don't enter the house, and wait at least a half hour to make sure nothing is smouldering before leaving. Have a real fire extinguisher on hand, or a couple. When I built my shop I did a concrete pony wall around the perimeter of it, as it greatly reduces the chance of slag, sparks, hot metal, etc from running under the edge of the wall and getting into the framing. I also put everything in the shop on casters so I can move things around to sweep under them, so I don't have a buildup of sawdust or other flammable materials on the floor.

It's to keep sparks out of your ears more than anything, although a wirefeed welder is actually quite loud and you will notice it hurting your ears if you weld for a long time. I don't use plugs but probably should... And I should have a proper respirator given the amount of welding I will often do at one time.

He has a point though, the tank should be the 18 gallon, and nobody makes the 16 gallon anyways. Now that we're talking about it I seem to recall that the 16 gallon long bed tank is just the 23.5 gallon with a longer vent tube so you can't fill it any more, it occupies the same physical area and is the same shell. I could be wrong though... I'm guessing the fuel sender is a bit messed up and OP can run it lower or get more fuel in it than he realizes. But still, I feel his pain, I don't have enough range to do a lot of what I want to do... But jerry cans are cheap and easy.

I like that guy, he just seems to enjoy everything.

What sort of suspension kit?

There's a few companies re-popping the 18 gallon tanks. Or maybe there's only one place and they're sold under multiple brands. I bought this one from Spectra (it's like $65 US or something). https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=17613&cc=1181720&jsn=1979 It's fine, but a little thin, like most reproduction tanks. I cleaned it thoroughly and painted it because rust is an issue here.

I thought somebody mentioned the 8.8 already? IMHO it's a good deal, but you really should drop the $650 (or whatever it is) on the c-clip eliminator kit. That mostly fixes the width issue, and gets rid of the c-clips. The ZJ D44A is just all around bad news. It doesn't take normal parts, has weak bearings, weak housing, weak tubes, and generally just falls apart. I mean, you could use it, but why? There's way better options for the same junkyard price. If anything you might pay a premium for the ZJ D44A from a wrecker as they're so problematic that people always need them.

The first one I bought they wanted to register as a car because it was a Jeep. It took some convincing that it actually was a pickup truck. Many people don't realize Jeep made trucks for 50 years or so.

I'd skip Chrysler (for now) and pull the driver's door skin off and see if the build sheet is in there. If it's not there, look on the bottom of the seat cushions. Amazingly they're often still there... If it isn't, try Chrysler. They might have something for an 89 since they were running things by then.

Kinda thought about that after my other reply... Might have had those "helper" air shocks, that don't really work that well, at some point? Where the other end of the lines go would probably offer a better clue. There's no evidence it had bags installed, not that I can see.

The sucky thing about the Doooodge tank for him is that it won't play nice with his fuel gauge. My sender/pickup is screwed now and I'm considering the Dakota tank along with swapping to a HO cluster and speedo setup... I just don't have any of the parts on hand. Of course that still doesn't really fix the fuel gauge, since the Dakota is the insane new Chrysler resistance range... Not interested in doing the new style dash and interior.

Did somebody replace the fuel tank recently? Kinda looks like they didn't feel like hooking up the evap/vent lines to the charcoal canister and just routed them overboard?

That looks like the regular shortbox 18 gallon tank. It certainly is not the LWB 23.5 gallon tank. I'm guessing that since the tag was attached to the hose that it is not relevant, the hose assembly may have been listed for the larger tank but was determined to be fit either, or it was Monday morning or Friday afternoon. How much fuel fits in it would be the real question.

How about a picture of the tank (installed) rather than the tag? The 23.5 gal tank takes three straps and is longer than the 18 gallon tank.