DirtyComanche

Just buy them new. They're wear parts.

I'm also a "make your own kit" guy. I'm about triage, not doing things right. Quick clot, burn dressings, tourniquet, lots of bigger dressings, gauze, and tape. It's all just stick yourself back together and go home stuff. I haven't used a bandaid in 20 years, I'm not about to start now.

I'll save the Pirate4x4 style response that I want to type and instead just say I'm glad you got the truck back.

I want to make a trar. Of course AMC basically sold one, so I guess I could get one of those.

The "Solid choice" part was sarcasm.

The most overprice and overrated truck of all time. Solid choice.

I'm on my third or fourth Acer in a row. This is an Aspire Nitro, basically it's sold as a gaming rig, but I bought it just to be able to render video. It will be the last Acer I own. Build quality is terrible compared with the earlier ones. When I bought this one, the first one I was shipped was NFG, bad battery or charge controller and would only charge to random amounts, Acer wanted to take it for a couple weeks to fix it, so I just exchanged it with Amazon instead (they overnighted another one and let me return the first one at my leisure). Since then I've had keys hanging up and the backlight on the screen has done odd things. All in all it isn't as sturdy of a case as the earlier Aspires were either, you can feel it flex and creak all the time. I do not anticipate it will last anywhere near as long as the other ones did. My very first Acer was purchased in a Walmart in the middle of the night for $220. I broke my other laptop and needed one for that morning to print plane tickets. I took it all over the US, Canada, Afghanistan, etc for 4 or 5 years. The battery eventually was totally toast on it, but it still worked fine otherwise, but it simply isn't economical to buy a battery for a $220 laptop.

That's a hell of an assumption you're making there. Being that you'd offend me with that.

I used a Luk. The slave exploded. In fact everyone I know personally that used the Luk slave had it explode. One guy went through 7? of them before he just lost his mind and found an external slave AX-15. There appears to only be two slave cylinders on the market. The Luk one and the Centric one, or plastic vs aluminum. When I say I had a Luk fail, it was definitely Luk branded, the guy I know that burned though them tried many from different 'brands' but they were all the same (there's one factory making them, some very minor changes existed but they may have even been just batch number specific). I went with the Centric aluminum one for the second go, and it's been good so far.

Is "Cut them off and buy new ones" not an acceptable answer? Assuming he actually wants to know the socket size...

The contacts on the circuit board thingy on the cluster will corrode and do that too. But check the ground first. And as said, verify actual voltage with a meter to make sure it is charging correct and whatnot.

He's got a manual tranny, use 75w-90 GL5 oil, or something like that. Same for the axles. Personally I like synthetics, that's me. Tcase can use any ATF. Dex/Merc III is still available, but later Jeep manuals will say ATF+4 because they're Chrysler. It doesn't matter which, just make sure you put ATF in it and not gear oil.

Lots of stuff has been swapped on it. Like Minuit said, that interior wasn't what it came with, and it looks to me like a lot of the exterior stuff has been swapped at some point, likely when they painted it. If somebody that cared owned it and did this stuff, it's a good sign. If a hack did it to try to make it look okay to sell it, ugh. That's what my 88 was (and somewhat still is), a hack tried to make it look okay to sell it. When I say the $3000 price is probably okay, I mean as an asking price, I wouldn't intend to pay that even if it looks very solid. It's a 2wd, and it's been spraypainted (well, almost guaranteed that's spraypaint). Looks like it will need an exhaust too.

I'd be worried about what all that flat black paint is hiding. But it doesn't appear to be very rusted on the uniframe, so that's a good sign. Look at it in person and see how good it actually is. $3000 probably isn't a bad price if it's actually got a solid body.

They're ABS relays and ABS connectors. Finally found a newer component layout diagram that shows the relays. I'm going to assume I can delete all of it and suffer no drawbacks.

It's likely fine, assuming they at least put the trans in neutral... I mean, I dunno, that sounds like somebody failed towing 101. However, the tcase oil pump is on the rear output shaft, so as long as that is spinning it has lubrication. Ideal, no, but it shouldn't hurt anything. If not, tcases are cheap.

The female connector that is clean connects to the male one I'm pointing to. This is all hooked to the 2 relays that do something, I have no idea what.

Can somebody ID these? I think these are all related to cruise control or ABS. I'm not sure, I've never seen them on a harness before and my manuals do not match correctly. I it's a 1990 XJ with a 4.0l auto, or it's an late 89, which my 89 manuals don't cover as they changed a lot of wiring connectors. There's screws in the firewall for the cruise control servo, but it is long gone. The entire braking system has also been changed. Backstory is this is an XJ I bought not running, and it's been modded. The underhood chassis wiring harness is messed and I don't have a spare, so attempting to repair it.

You must use a 4wd transmission unless you want to tear the transmissions apart and swap significant parts over, which may or may not be damaged in your current transmission. XJ/MJ AX-5s have the transfer case adapter flange drilled different than YJ/TJ ones. If you use a YJ/TJ one the transfer case will wind up clocked higher and there is potential for floor contact and the shift linkage not working; basically it may not bolt together as intended, although it will physically fit.

For aftermarket stuff I deal with: -Summit Racing -Speedway Motors -Amazon (Yes, try it, searching by P/N is best) -Ruffstuff Specialties -TMR Customs -North West Fab -DIY4X -DiffsOnly -Tom Woods -JE REEL -High Angle Driveline And a bunch of others. Will not deal with: -Ballistic Fab -Behemouth Driveline -4wheel Parts (unless I have to) I'm not normally buying the same stuff as most people though.

Look at the tag on that tcase, it's on the rear case half driver's side of the rear output. See what year it is. I'm guessing somebody bought a trans and tcase out of a newer rig and swapped them in to do a 4wd swap, hence there might not be the provisions for the AW4 to shift correctly and having the newer style speedo drive. You can, or should be able to barring no really weird parts combination, pull the speedo drive out and just put a cable style one in it though. Likely the speedo cable was too short too, likely part of the reason they didn't fix it, there's a few on Rockauto that will work with the various different types of gauge clusters.

Anything worth sitting in will be, if you're buying new.

That sucks. It didn't have any special anti-theft measures, I assume? 80s vehicles are just way too easy to steal.

JK axles. And hydroboost.

It's still relevant. You want the pinion angle to be 2 degrees (or so) below being inline with the output yoke on the tcase at static height/loading. That's the Coles notes at least, I'll spare the long explanation. Currently it looks high, but I'm not convinced it's an issue.