DirtyComanche

What do you plan to make? Most 3D printers do a meh job at best.

Most parts aren't patented, and not reproducing a whole assembly skirts a lot of issues if there is a patent. Or as said, altering it by 20%~. Also, there is laws in most of the western world regarding reproduction/aftermarket service parts that basically say the OEM has to allow them. That way Chrysler can't stick you with having to buy a windshield from them for some outrageous price 30 years later.

That's nice.

I should have said all 3, I skimmed it a bit. A D44 and D60 are not exactly the same shape. I'm sorry my tone is a little sour, 24 hour daylight is starting to get to me.

BTW, that XJ D44 is worth $$$ to somebody. Easy bolt in upgrade.

*Sigh* A front D60 and a rear D60 cover is the same. There's a couple slightly different versions, but they're the same, they swap, whatever. Same number of bolts, same shape, etc. You posted pictures of two D44s. A front D44 also takes the same cover as a rear D44... Please learn to ID axles before you keep telling people you've seen something or other that would be a unicorn if it was true. There was no D60s in the MJ/XJ from the factory.

There is no PCV valve. It's just a CCV system. Both the small line in the back that goes to the intake manifold, and the big line in the front that goes to the airbox, need to be clean/free of obstruction and unbroken, along with the actual baffles in the valve cover (that you can see with the grommets out). If you pull the valve cover off to do the seal you might as well clean out the vent towers/baffles in it.

You can just buy a tank and straps new, and they're cheap. I'd just make the J bolts or buy the XJ ones that are available. The only thing that isn't readily available is a sender/pickup setup. That said, I wouldn't use a MJ tank. I hate steel tanks and would try a Dakota one first if you're dead set on putting one on that side.

For the oil leak, make sure the breathers in the valve cover are correct and functioning too, or it will force oil past whatever seals it can (often the RMS).

With the Ecobox/NP205 it's very similar to stock lengths. YMMV, I have a D60 and a 14 Bolt in it and the front axle is a few inches forwards and the rear an inch back.

I want to move it forwards anyways. The current links are longer than stock, but are straight (totally wrong), I think they're possibly the K80016, but I'm not sure and it doesn't matter, even with the swaybar at the 'correct' 15~ degree up angle there is likelihood of contact. Interestingly the MOOG K80036 is probably another 2.5"~ longer than the K80035, so for a guy with even more lift that might be an option. I'll order some K80035s or equivalent (I can't get that Amazon price here) and start with that.

I agree with HOrnbrod. On that topic I really to need to fix the one on my MJ...

I have an NWF Ecobox (and a NP205F). With the exchange the way it is, just order one of them, IMHO. Don't bother with Behemoth, there's lots of guys he owes money to that will likely never see their orders... I'd not recommend a 231 as the second tcase. NP241DLD would be a better choice if you want to stick with a 2.72:1 chaindrive tcase. You could steal the planetary from your current 231 to put in the Ecobox and only be out tracking down a 241. Oh, the Teralow 4:1 kit for the NP231 is history. It was always garbage, but the availability of better options have completely killed their market.

Do you have a picture of one installed in that location? Looks kinda large, but hell if I know without scale: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4303848&cc=1122185&jsn=13916 Here's the Blazer/Jimmy one that I figured would be worth a shot, mostly because it's a shape that looks more likely to nest into the existing X crossmember: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=17424&cc=1164709&jsn=14023 Third edit, if it's just for a heater a universal boat tank might be big enough... Or one of those cylindrical hot rod tanks that Speedway sells like this: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Black-Poly-Fuel-Tank-12-Gallon-10-x-36-Inch,34441.html Either would likely require cutting an access hole/door to fill from inside the bed... Might not be your style.

That's why I said a YJ tank, it's kinda the right shape to fit behind/in the crossmember nook where the spare normally lives. I saved a fuel filler panel/door/neck out of an XJ I cut up and planned to hack into the inside of the bed to make it all work. That said, I don't know if it would have worked, there was potential for needing to cut up a bunch of stuff including parts of the frame that are rather structural. Which could be done, but may not have been a good idea. The 90s S10 Blazers had a tank that also would likely fit. For muscle car tanks there was one that I thought had a good chance of fitting, I want to say it was a Camaro, but with no hope of finding one in a junkyard I didn't pursue it. I have the YJ tank, just never got around to trying to fit it. Cheapest option is an old drum and a siphon hose... 205L, roughly 3 times the capacity of the stock SWB tank.

The gauge is in bar. The metric unit of pressure (but not SI, although it is basically a SI unit because 1 bar = 100,000 pascals). But yeah, the factory gauge is more of a "You've got pressure bud, stop worryin' aboot it" type of gauge.

You have actually looked at how the tank sits in there relative to the cab? There isn't space to get it between the tank(s) and the cab, unless as I said you use a smaller tank and go over the frame rail in front of the tank (and dump in front of the tire, or whatever). So you can't accomplish #1 without hacking it through the frame, or not easily at least, which I think is what you mean with #3. #2 is a terrible idea. You will be choking on fumes. It is bad enough dumping it in front of the rear tires for anything that sees slow speed usage. If you're going to do #2, you'd be better off running a hater pipe through the hood and just owning it. At least it would be high school cool. Hacking a hole through the frame (under the cab) to get it through it would work for #1, but has a couple major considerations. Not matter how you do it you will significantly reduce the cross sectional strength of the frame, regardless if you plate it or sleeve it, as the hole needs to be larger than the pipe to account for an air gap (2.5" ID minimum, since running anything smaller than 2" exhaust is really choking the engine) or you will have significant heat transfer to the frame rail which will weaken it and make it extremely susceptible to corrosion attack. I'm not home and don't have a MJ here, but IIRC the frame is only 3.75" or so tall in that area towards the back of the cab, if you cut out 2.5" of that it's just more than what is comfortable. You could do an oblong hole and run a similar shaped pipe through it though, and maybe that would be the solution, but it is the type of mod that there's no going back from. Heat management is a big thing too. The factory ran the exhaust in a fairly complicated manner for this reason, you need a significant air gap/flow and/or heat shielding between the exhaust and fuel lines/tanks as you can cause the fuel in a tank or the lines to boil fairly easily. This all becomes worse if you're going to throw skidplates on things, as it really cuts down on the airflow and traps the heat in places it wouldn't be otherwise. If by #3 you mean running the pipe inside the frame down the length of it, I really suggest you don't. Heat and corrosion issues are the big thing, plus it would actually be a nightmare to bend it up to fit that. I guess it comes down to how much more fuel you're looking to get in there, and how far you're willing to go with hacking things up.

I considered this on my LWB. Either use a factory tank on the passenger side, or something else, but it has to be smaller than the other one and set farther back, so you can turn the exhaust up and over the frame before it... I don't see there being room for satisfactory routing of the exhaust between, above, or below two tanks. I also have an odd year YJ tank (it's plastic, apparently it's sorta rare) that I was going to try using where the spare would normally go.

Where are you going to route the exhaust?

So what are you going to do with it?

I'm curious who makes them for Dorman... It's not like they're making them.

I miss being able to go to that pick'n'pull. It always had a decent selection of junk.

Not to take away from it, but I'm very certain that if you schmoozed the right dealer you'll save way more than that... There's a localish guy to me that's a dealer, and he quoted me a lot better than 10% off a set of D60 ones, and I've seen dealers on Pirate with "ask" for pricing that was likely better than that. I love the CV axles in my MJ... Really wanted to get them for my XJ (with the D60), but it's a hard pill to swallow even at a discount.

I've got some older 15xsomething 6x5.5 wheels that are really similar to the MJ/XJ ones. The problem is all the old turbine style wheels for larger trucks (8x6.5 bolt pattern) are almost always 16.5" diameter, which is well, yuck. There's some 16" versions though, but they're rare.

Moabs are alright, they ain't no Turbines though. Speaking of which, does anyone make a modern version of the turbine style wheel in 17" with a 8x6.5 or 8x170 bolt pattern? Probably not...