DirtyComanche

I have an NWF Ecobox (and a NP205F). With the exchange the way it is, just order one of them, IMHO. Don't bother with Behemoth, there's lots of guys he owes money to that will likely never see their orders... I'd not recommend a 231 as the second tcase. NP241DLD would be a better choice if you want to stick with a 2.72:1 chaindrive tcase. You could steal the planetary from your current 231 to put in the Ecobox and only be out tracking down a 241. Oh, the Teralow 4:1 kit for the NP231 is history. It was always garbage, but the availability of better options have completely killed their market.

Do you have a picture of one installed in that location? Looks kinda large, but hell if I know without scale: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4303848&cc=1122185&jsn=13916 Here's the Blazer/Jimmy one that I figured would be worth a shot, mostly because it's a shape that looks more likely to nest into the existing X crossmember: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=17424&cc=1164709&jsn=14023 Third edit, if it's just for a heater a universal boat tank might be big enough... Or one of those cylindrical hot rod tanks that Speedway sells like this: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Black-Poly-Fuel-Tank-12-Gallon-10-x-36-Inch,34441.html Either would likely require cutting an access hole/door to fill from inside the bed... Might not be your style.

That's why I said a YJ tank, it's kinda the right shape to fit behind/in the crossmember nook where the spare normally lives. I saved a fuel filler panel/door/neck out of an XJ I cut up and planned to hack into the inside of the bed to make it all work. That said, I don't know if it would have worked, there was potential for needing to cut up a bunch of stuff including parts of the frame that are rather structural. Which could be done, but may not have been a good idea. The 90s S10 Blazers had a tank that also would likely fit. For muscle car tanks there was one that I thought had a good chance of fitting, I want to say it was a Camaro, but with no hope of finding one in a junkyard I didn't pursue it. I have the YJ tank, just never got around to trying to fit it. Cheapest option is an old drum and a siphon hose... 205L, roughly 3 times the capacity of the stock SWB tank.

The gauge is in bar. The metric unit of pressure (but not SI, although it is basically a SI unit because 1 bar = 100,000 pascals). But yeah, the factory gauge is more of a "You've got pressure bud, stop worryin' aboot it" type of gauge.

You have actually looked at how the tank sits in there relative to the cab? There isn't space to get it between the tank(s) and the cab, unless as I said you use a smaller tank and go over the frame rail in front of the tank (and dump in front of the tire, or whatever). So you can't accomplish #1 without hacking it through the frame, or not easily at least, which I think is what you mean with #3. #2 is a terrible idea. You will be choking on fumes. It is bad enough dumping it in front of the rear tires for anything that sees slow speed usage. If you're going to do #2, you'd be better off running a hater pipe through the hood and just owning it. At least it would be high school cool. Hacking a hole through the frame (under the cab) to get it through it would work for #1, but has a couple major considerations. Not matter how you do it you will significantly reduce the cross sectional strength of the frame, regardless if you plate it or sleeve it, as the hole needs to be larger than the pipe to account for an air gap (2.5" ID minimum, since running anything smaller than 2" exhaust is really choking the engine) or you will have significant heat transfer to the frame rail which will weaken it and make it extremely susceptible to corrosion attack. I'm not home and don't have a MJ here, but IIRC the frame is only 3.75" or so tall in that area towards the back of the cab, if you cut out 2.5" of that it's just more than what is comfortable. You could do an oblong hole and run a similar shaped pipe through it though, and maybe that would be the solution, but it is the type of mod that there's no going back from. Heat management is a big thing too. The factory ran the exhaust in a fairly complicated manner for this reason, you need a significant air gap/flow and/or heat shielding between the exhaust and fuel lines/tanks as you can cause the fuel in a tank or the lines to boil fairly easily. This all becomes worse if you're going to throw skidplates on things, as it really cuts down on the airflow and traps the heat in places it wouldn't be otherwise. If by #3 you mean running the pipe inside the frame down the length of it, I really suggest you don't. Heat and corrosion issues are the big thing, plus it would actually be a nightmare to bend it up to fit that. I guess it comes down to how much more fuel you're looking to get in there, and how far you're willing to go with hacking things up.

I considered this on my LWB. Either use a factory tank on the passenger side, or something else, but it has to be smaller than the other one and set farther back, so you can turn the exhaust up and over the frame before it... I don't see there being room for satisfactory routing of the exhaust between, above, or below two tanks. I also have an odd year YJ tank (it's plastic, apparently it's sorta rare) that I was going to try using where the spare would normally go.

Where are you going to route the exhaust?

So what are you going to do with it?

I'm curious who makes them for Dorman... It's not like they're making them.

I miss being able to go to that pick'n'pull. It always had a decent selection of junk.

Not to take away from it, but I'm very certain that if you schmoozed the right dealer you'll save way more than that... There's a localish guy to me that's a dealer, and he quoted me a lot better than 10% off a set of D60 ones, and I've seen dealers on Pirate with "ask" for pricing that was likely better than that. I love the CV axles in my MJ... Really wanted to get them for my XJ (with the D60), but it's a hard pill to swallow even at a discount.

I've got some older 15xsomething 6x5.5 wheels that are really similar to the MJ/XJ ones. The problem is all the old turbine style wheels for larger trucks (8x6.5 bolt pattern) are almost always 16.5" diameter, which is well, yuck. There's some 16" versions though, but they're rare.

Moabs are alright, they ain't no Turbines though. Speaking of which, does anyone make a modern version of the turbine style wheel in 17" with a 8x6.5 or 8x170 bolt pattern? Probably not...

Bad battery cables or connectors. Bad grounds. Bad wire to ignition relay.

There's lots of wiggle in the price of RCV stuff, I doubt they would care if you didn't go.

Higher pressure allows for them to force the fuel charge in over a shorter duration, which makes more power and keeps the emissions happy at higher RPM.

I'm lost on why the original MJ pump wouldn't make 49psi, unless he had a carbed or TBI truck.

Looks like the same garbage Krylon the PO painted mine with. Middle aged men shouldn't be spraypainting their vehicles.

You know new struts are like $18, right?

While I appreciate that would have been a lot of work... W-w-w-w-why?

Taped to the outside of the window? Or inside? I always tape them to the inside so people can't take them off...

If you use that pump do you need the matching pulley then? I'd assume so at least... Will the belt offset be correct for an XJ/MJ 4.0 if you do use the pulley it comes with?

I can create the same effect in Resolve, but it's not what is done with the emblems. They have a black background that roughly follows the outline of the letters. It looks different. Like I said, I might just call it good enough since I doubt anyone is going to care.

I'd like to know this too.

Now, the next problem I have is I do not know how to create the same effect that is on the emblem, where they blackened around the silver... I have an idea, but it won't be terribly easy. This might be getting called good enough.