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About MancheKid86

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    MJ Junkie

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    Winfield, B.C Canada

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  1. seems like its now a waiting game for the machine shop, onto cleaning parts haha have my intake manifold ready to go, even polished the fuel rail cleaned the heck out of the valve cover and even filed/wetsanded /polished the ridges ontop
  2. ended up ditching everything on the bench beside the two plantetary sets, the new transfercase output has to be machined to fit my sun gear (pilot stub too large currently) way more beef compared the to the np241C/231 combo i ran before this is also a spedoless assembly so if i want to have a spedometer (which i havent had since i have owned it) i will have to use a gauge that utilizes gps for reference speed the three pics of case are from the internet, just because i didnt take any when taking it apart (2040-parts.com and reid.org) then my comparison of 231 front outout to 241D front output and new vs old shaft and machining required (shafts are the same spline thickess, the new one is tilting upward making it look larger)
  3. transfer case rebuild kit finally showed up also, have the transmission fully reassembled and it shifts nicely through all gears (it had some input shaft play in it, so i figured why not a refresh, brand new bearing has same play hahahahahahha) here is a picture of an ax15(one of my spares) input to output to 1st reduction to 2nd transfercase reduction to transfercase output just picked up low mile NP 241 D to use on the truck. will be taking the 6 planet gear out (i have to anyways, and install my custom 6 planet shaft) and replacing it where the three planet gear carrier is more to come, have to figure out what to do for front driveshaft as changing 4wd output style
  4. my two day shipping on the bearings and synchros turned into three weeks, but they are here. will get around to installing them sometime shortly
  5. ended up getting my transmission apart last night, will dissasemble the two shafts once my bearning and synchro kit finally show up (its over a week late so far, paid for 2 day shipping)
  6. POR 15 showed up today! i should have enough to do everything that doesnt get the base clear waiting for my transfercase and transmission rebuild kits to show up, have the tcase's apart and ready for new parts tearing the transmission down next. kits should be here in the next few days i have been soaking the frame trans tunnel in degreaser daily and hosing it down, has really cleaned it up. will work up the courage to go in the tunnel and scrub it all clean. once it get warmer wi will be mediablasiting the frame before i por15 it
  7. cleaned up transmission and tcases enough that i can now tear them down once the rebuild kits show up, found a crack on the 241 (231 housing, 241 internals) so i will have to change the housing pulled box off to mock new box ,por 15 frame and prep for paint
  8. here's some more pics, oh yeah i snapped a leaf spring, but i had a comanche specific leaf in the next day for more wheelin
  9. trucks still alive, just rolled 128000 KM (79.5K Miles) almost two years ago i thought i blew the engine, so i bought a RHD twin turbo surbaru legacy gt to get me back to town and work the next day and i had it towed back to my work where it sat till i moved it to a shop i was renting. ski accident happened and i moved to a different part of the province in order to get the medical help needed. finally went to pick all my jeep stuff up (this was last fall) drove the truck back with a dead cylinder some 450+ km through the mountains, when i got it home i found it sliped a push rod?? (it does have some nasty lifter tick when the oil gets thin) put it back in place and properly torqued the pivot fulcrum and its been running like a top ever since been slowly making this BASE 2WD model more factory equiped it didnt even have bulbs in the pillars i did the 4wd conversion 3 years ago more recently installed the entire lighting package, foot wells and pillars with LED's installed drivers and passenger vanity mirrors installed factory cargo light installed factory 4wd shift bezel plate and illumination harness made a 4wd dash harness for the transfer case, i just need to remove the gauge cluster, nstall the bulbs in the annunciation panel and change the annunciation card itself to a 4wd model (which i have obtained from a comanche we bought and stripped) acquired the drivers drip rail! a spare comanche mini consol installed factory 2.5L comanche overflow reservoir have spare comance washer fluid reservoir i need to install the new to me factory ebrake mechanism and ebrake cable to achieve a ebrake again also need to install the factory comanche D44 and metric ton leaf springs i found in the woods (not even kidding.....) i do have new front fenders for when i put some more lift in it i have also replaced my master clutch cyl heater core alternator water pump and thermostat and coolant hoses (the bolts were so rotten on the water pump they let go, and i had to extract them from the block) spark plugs cap and rotor map sensor fuel injectors more pics sometime down the road ! FYI i know my grills upside down. goblazers6 said it the best. i like the look, looks a bit meaner that way and it drives everyone else mad ofcourse hahaha
  10. ill eventually go through my pictures and back log them onto here but here is some for now! just need to get the new box bobbed and two dents pulled on the cab and i can start prepping for paint (doing doors fenders grill ect off of the truck bed and cab separate) i spent a day sanding the engine bay with 180 and primed it, and then some spray bomb of magnetic metallic gray my wiring harness was wrapped on the bench so once everything is installed ill re wrap them for better suited orientation. fit the power doors, working on making a harness for those currently things are coming along nicely, have not heard back about my crank and camshaft yet (fingers crossed they can be saved)
  11. trucks still kicking. i had a great season snow wheeling that came to an end some what short half way through i rebuilt the entire front end and tossed some mevotech TTX balljoints, (worth the money, still intact unlike a moog or a spicer) I blew the motor, currently i have it out and waiting the machine shop to tell me what i need to order for parts. spun the #6 connecting rod bearing and have a dished lifter (seeing if the cam and crank are even salvagable) over the last week i have removed the engine, stripped it down and sent it out to the machine shop have trans and tcases out to be torn down and bearings replaced have the engine bay stripped and almost ready for paint, removed dash stripped the ecu and main body harness down of all the unnecessary extra wires and untangled the rats nest of the stock harness. the whole thing fits in 5/8 loom now removed the ecu daignostics ports, which ironically never worked from factory. as per the wiring diagram it was miss pinned to C12 instead of the appropriate D12. it never worked from factory (i could have just swapped the pin and made it functional but i had previously decided that it was being removed altogether) waiting for it to stop snowing and then ill start fitting the power doors i guess I'm doing a complete tear down and re wire, i have my dash on the bench and currently thinning out the wiring harness on that also. plan is to have it painted and running for may long wheelin will post some pics someday, theres just so many to go through and sort chronologically that I tend to put it off tell it gets to overwhelming lol my other comanche is still alive! just rolled 80K Miles on her too (~129Kish km)
  12. follow cruiser54's valve cover mod. http://cruiser54.com/?p=131
  13. i ended up finding play in my upper ball joint bore of the knuckle (the ball joint did not have play) so i sourced out a new scout II knuckle for $20, tossed some new ball joints in it and reamed it for a over knuckle 1 ton TRE i had to cut off the old knuckle, since it was no good, i had zero issue chopping it up. otherwise i would have taken a sawzall and cut the upper and lower balljoints out with the RCV's in a Scout II spicer 44 (dana 44) they have to be installed assembled at the same time as the knuckle is being installed ( it is a bit of a royal pain) in order to disassemble the axle, you literally have to cut the knuckles off. it is a one way installation. once they are installed. there is no nice way of removal at this time, i refreshed 1 ton over knuckle steering with all new TRE's and put it all back together also just some randoms. i refreshed my comanche badges, cleaned, polished, repainted the black and a generous amount of clear coat and side by side my buddy's 2" lowered cherokee, that walks most of the imports in town and me testing out the new parts
  14. i then painted the axle, once it was stitched together. everything else had a thorough final clean, then mostly every part got a fresh coat of paint. tossed the axle back under the truck and back out into the bush there is a few reasons why i stayed with the dana 44 under the truck instead of going to a 1 ton axle unsprung weight, would to too great and i would have to stiffen the truck (i will down the road but not now) before i could even think about driving it again new rims and tires all new gears locker upgraded shafts ect... for me currently that financially isnt an option the biggest one though is diff clearance. the way the truck is set up is to achieve maximum diff clearance ,the axles are strong enough built up to withstand the 39.5 tires snow wheeling is HUGE here, and it is my favorite season. diff clearance is critical. if i went to a 14 bolt and shaved the lower portion of the housing i still would loose clearance and that is not an option. that being said, i also maintain a large sidewall keeping the 15" rims
  15. I then cut the retainers off my axle shafts, since my disc brake conversion brackets become the new retainers and with the help of my friend designed and made a truss for the new axle
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