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MancheKid86

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About MancheKid86

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    MJ Junkie

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  • MSN
    m.s.ifan00001@hotmail.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Winfield, B.C Canada

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  1. Well its been a little while since i made much progress on the truck. i have the passenger repairs almost finished, just need to trim my newly made floor pan a bit more and can start welding it all together. my neighbor is a legend, spent about 6 hours with me forming the passenger pan and rolling it smooth it turned out great! as you can see i messed up and cut it a bit short off the sheet so i had to add some more metal back in but other than that I'm very pleased with the home made floor pan. here are some pictures, will have more soon
  2. the rest of my bits showed up for the engine put the new harmonic balancer on and was able to index the distributor started up on the sheet metal again, made my fire wall repair patch, just need to roll/shrink the edge for the pinch seam and start to fit it. gave the top of the unibody a quick grind to remove any galvonizing and sprayed some zinc weld thru primer in prep for the new pans. removed the rock sliders to be replaced and it also made the acess to start the rocker repairs that much easier! it is slightly crusty in there, ill see how much of it is left after a bit of a wire brush XD
  3. new header showed up, waiting on a few more bits then the engine is finished! i cleaned and spray tested each injector prior to installing them in the manifold here is some more pictures
  4. i can only imagine your thoughts when you split the casing, it sure cleaned up nice though! diggin the new drivers side latch you fabbed!
  5. i have finally recieved my engine from the machine shop! bored .060 over with a more agressive cam shaft than i have previously had i quickly went assembling it, i installed the exhaust and intake manifold and found some issues with the header (imcompatibility) which some of you have probably read my tech thread i have ordered a new manifold so in the further photos that is why the intake and exhaust are back off. one thing that had been missing for longer than i have owned rye guy's ol' black n tan is the cam bolt spring and tensioner pin (there was indication of the bolt physically contacting timing cover!!!!!!! and possibly why i had a dished lifter/worn lobe) i had to go to pick n pull and get another. a few good smacks with a hammer and chisel and the timing cover casing chipped apart revealing my much needed hardware. this is where I'm at, sorry about the mess in the pictures LOL waiting for the exhaust and harmonic balancer before i can finish assembling and timing the engine quickly scuffed and painted the oil pan, nothing crazy I'm just going to scrape it up again once I'm done the engine ill be definitley motivated to finish the sheetmetal work and paint more to come
  6. i have found a dead hole on the otherside of the block that would be a sufficient relocation that is +/- an inch from the factory KS location. there would be a simple adapter needed to mount the velocometer. i have chosen to not go this route for the reasons being the pace setter header the machine shop had given me is indeed for a TJ and not a xj/mj the forward bank points directly towards the front differential, where as in a tj the front axle would be much further forward of the engine and would not be an issue long story short, knock sensor is in its factory location. i have ordered a new header and this one is going up for sale to recoop some of the purchase price of the new manifold. thank you for the reply's and entertaining my idea
  7. long story short, i have been given a free (used) pace setter headder for my 4.7L build. the forward bank goes directly in the way of the factory blind hole the accelerometer attaches to. now my question. i understand the overall diameter of the holes themselves are different and would require some modifications to have it fastened to the block. other than that does anyone see a reason why i cannot just relocate the knock sensor further back to the blind hole between cyl 5/6? vs the factory location cyl three?
  8. the best way to get rid of cigarette smell out of the jeep will be a bit tedious, but VERY effective. it involves, removing the entire interior. dash, air distrobution box plastics ect. cigarettes leave a tar like residue once the smoke disipates. so when still in smoke form, its easier to get behind interior plastics. where the lingering smell usually resides. mix some tsp or what ever detergent your going to use, hand wash and dry all the metal to the pillars, fire wall, ect hand wash the plastics inside and out same with the dash STEAM CLEAN the seats and, if you have a fabric carpet do the same to that the biggest is the air distrbution box. it is disgusting in there usually. it NEEDS to be disassembled, thoroughly cleaned of dirt and washed/ hand dried to ensure all the junk is out. reassemble and your jeep will smell AMAZING
  9. if your not scared of spending a bit, TSM MFG makes bolt on disc brake conversion kits with e-brake calipers or options for a secondary caliper as an ebrake
  10. removed all the spot welds from 90% of the cab floor. slowly working on inner rocker repairs before making the first pan, i will be removing the rock sliders, welding my repairs in from both sides (backing plate 4x size of repair)x2 on each side and por 15'ing the inside of it once all boogered together here's some pics, passenger pan out, and unibody through the various stages of cleaning and first application of por15 will do the same to the inner rocker once i have access i know I'm dragging my feet on this, i blame yard work and lots of it
  11. my platform is Windows 10 64 bit, accessing via google chrome hope this helps
  12. have been trying to figure this one out for a bit, not that hard obviously. My issue, i have been updating CC with my build thread every now and then. once updating CC i would copy my text and picture url's over to bcjeepclub.ca at somepoint the forum style changed and i can no longer display picture url's (ex. the photo bucket hosted ones) after submitting my post this has made it rather difficult to just copy and paste else where so i have not updated any where else because of this (yes I'm a bit lazy and do not want to relink everything one by one if not needed) is there something I'm not seeing? or has this feature been removed? thanks!
  13. the engine shop finally had enough time to figure out what was salvagable which is the block head, (being reworked) and crank shaft it will be bored .060 over with a 9:1 CR and adjustable timing gear, i want to be able to put some boost to it later on currently i am working on the floor pans, i have taken the unibody braces off and am left with not much clean sheet metal to work with, will post pics of my completed floor pans when they are actually finished
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