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MancheKid86

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About MancheKid86

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    MJ Junkie

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    m.s.ifan00001@hotmail.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Winfield, B.C Canada

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  1. the engine shop finally had enough time to figure out what was salvagable which is the block head, (being reworked) and crank shaft it will be bored .060 over with a 9:1 CR and adjustable timing gear, i want to be able to put some boost to it later on currently i am working on the floor pans, i have taken the unibody braces off and am left with not much clean sheet metal to work with, will post pics of my completed floor pans when they are actually finished
  2. spring is here, so that means yardwork and landscaping, and lots of it thats my excuse for being lazy and not progressing much on the truck. picked up a harness end to end with switches at the wrecker for the power doors and windows! worked up the courage to start removing all the factory undercoating off the transmission tunnel in preperation for media blasting (less to blast through) a little more to remove (still need to remove the mj specific transmission mounts off the cab and the old 4wd shifter bracket i don't even use) then i can blast the frame and underside of the cab, once everything is media blasted ill be able to apply the por 15 to everything and have the adhesion required and allow the product to work as well as it can. plan is to strip the truck down even more (need to remove the two peices off glass before i can use my neighbours frame straightener to true the cab and truck within factory dimensions, ) media blast por 15 finish body work paint start reassembly here's some $#!&ty pictures of my transmission tunnel, you can see the brackets that still need to be removed prior to media blasting
  3. just read through this, sounds like you need to find a friend with a torque wrench and some sockets and start torquing the track bar mount i don't think its control arms, unless they used incorect diameter hardware on assembly (which would give a clunk when shifting back and forth and oblonging the mounting holes) i torque all my track bar bracketry to 150-160 ft lbs (factory is to loose, this is a common issue) if incorreclty installed (yes you can) it will shift when mass amount of preload is applied, ie your clunk my suggestion is the above statement, find a friend with a torque wrench, torque it all down snug, even go as far as to loosen the bracket off, slowly snug each bolt up till all four seat it snuggly to the frame (this is where people mess it up, they tighten two of four bolts immediatly and then the plate is now incorrectly aligned) but be sure once its seated to the frame to tighten the living crap out of it, I'm dead serious (thats why i suggest 150-160 ft lbs. think if your 160 lbs or even 220, and you were not able to move it by your own mass but the vehicle is able too with the forces it sees, you can see how torquing it less isnt effective enough) this is something basic in a maintainence perspective to start to familiarize yourself with your vehicle more. (so you can stray more away on relying on an autoshop) i agree with all the other people who say its as track bar issue metal cloak is hands down better quality than roughcountry so that will be a great upgrade ***edit*** i have seen the engine mount portion of the track bar bracketry completley detstroid, and cracks running through it, this is an area of the whole bracketry that people forget
  4. seems like its now a waiting game for the machine shop, onto cleaning parts haha have my intake manifold ready to go, even polished the fuel rail cleaned the heck out of the valve cover and even filed/wetsanded /polished the ridges ontop
  5. ended up ditching everything on the bench beside the two plantetary sets, the new transfercase output has to be machined to fit my sun gear (pilot stub too large currently) way more beef compared the to the np241C/231 combo i ran before this is also a spedoless assembly so if i want to have a spedometer (which i havent had since i have owned it) i will have to use a gauge that utilizes gps for reference speed the three pics of case are from the internet, just because i didnt take any when taking it apart (2040-parts.com and reid.org) then my comparison of 231 front outout to 241D front output and new vs old shaft and machining required (shafts are the same spline thickess, the new one is tilting upward making it look larger)
  6. transfer case rebuild kit finally showed up also, have the transmission fully reassembled and it shifts nicely through all gears (it had some input shaft play in it, so i figured why not a refresh, brand new bearing has same play hahahahahahha) here is a picture of an ax15(one of my spares) input to output to 1st reduction to 2nd transfercase reduction to transfercase output just picked up low mile NP 241 D to use on the truck. will be taking the 6 planet gear out (i have to anyways, and install my custom 6 planet shaft) and replacing it where the three planet gear carrier is more to come, have to figure out what to do for front driveshaft as changing 4wd output style
  7. my two day shipping on the bearings and synchros turned into three weeks, but they are here. will get around to installing them sometime shortly
  8. ended up getting my transmission apart last night, will dissasemble the two shafts once my bearning and synchro kit finally show up (its over a week late so far, paid for 2 day shipping)
  9. POR 15 showed up today! i should have enough to do everything that doesnt get the base clear waiting for my transfercase and transmission rebuild kits to show up, have the tcase's apart and ready for new parts tearing the transmission down next. kits should be here in the next few days i have been soaking the frame trans tunnel in degreaser daily and hosing it down, has really cleaned it up. will work up the courage to go in the tunnel and scrub it all clean. once it get warmer wi will be mediablasiting the frame before i por15 it
  10. cleaned up transmission and tcases enough that i can now tear them down once the rebuild kits show up, found a crack on the 241 (231 housing, 241 internals) so i will have to change the housing pulled box off to mock new box ,por 15 frame and prep for paint
  11. here's some more pics, oh yeah i snapped a leaf spring, but i had a comanche specific leaf in the next day for more wheelin
  12. trucks still alive, just rolled 128000 KM (79.5K Miles) almost two years ago i thought i blew the engine, so i bought a RHD twin turbo surbaru legacy gt to get me back to town and work the next day and i had it towed back to my work where it sat till i moved it to a shop i was renting. ski accident happened and i moved to a different part of the province in order to get the medical help needed. finally went to pick all my jeep stuff up (this was last fall) drove the truck back with a dead cylinder some 450+ km through the mountains, when i got it home i found it sliped a push rod?? (it does have some nasty lifter tick when the oil gets thin) put it back in place and properly torqued the pivot fulcrum and its been running like a top ever since been slowly making this BASE 2WD model more factory equiped it didnt even have bulbs in the pillars i did the 4wd conversion 3 years ago more recently installed the entire lighting package, foot wells and pillars with LED's installed drivers and passenger vanity mirrors installed factory cargo light installed factory 4wd shift bezel plate and illumination harness made a 4wd dash harness for the transfer case, i just need to remove the gauge cluster, nstall the bulbs in the annunciation panel and change the annunciation card itself to a 4wd model (which i have obtained from a comanche we bought and stripped) acquired the drivers drip rail! a spare comanche mini consol installed factory 2.5L comanche overflow reservoir have spare comance washer fluid reservoir i need to install the new to me factory ebrake mechanism and ebrake cable to achieve a ebrake again also need to install the factory comanche D44 and metric ton leaf springs i found in the woods (not even kidding.....) i do have new front fenders for when i put some more lift in it i have also replaced my master clutch cyl heater core alternator water pump and thermostat and coolant hoses (the bolts were so rotten on the water pump they let go, and i had to extract them from the block) spark plugs cap and rotor map sensor fuel injectors more pics sometime down the road ! FYI i know my grills upside down. goblazers6 said it the best. i like the look, looks a bit meaner that way and it drives everyone else mad ofcourse hahaha
  13. ill eventually go through my pictures and back log them onto here but here is some for now! just need to get the new box bobbed and two dents pulled on the cab and i can start prepping for paint (doing doors fenders grill ect off of the truck bed and cab separate) i spent a day sanding the engine bay with 180 and primed it, and then some spray bomb of magnetic metallic gray my wiring harness was wrapped on the bench so once everything is installed ill re wrap them for better suited orientation. fit the power doors, working on making a harness for those currently things are coming along nicely, have not heard back about my crank and camshaft yet (fingers crossed they can be saved)
  14. trucks still kicking. i had a great season snow wheeling that came to an end some what short half way through i rebuilt the entire front end and tossed some mevotech TTX balljoints, (worth the money, still intact unlike a moog or a spicer) I blew the motor, currently i have it out and waiting the machine shop to tell me what i need to order for parts. spun the #6 connecting rod bearing and have a dished lifter (seeing if the cam and crank are even salvagable) over the last week i have removed the engine, stripped it down and sent it out to the machine shop have trans and tcases out to be torn down and bearings replaced have the engine bay stripped and almost ready for paint, removed dash stripped the ecu and main body harness down of all the unnecessary extra wires and untangled the rats nest of the stock harness. the whole thing fits in 5/8 loom now removed the ecu daignostics ports, which ironically never worked from factory. as per the wiring diagram it was miss pinned to C12 instead of the appropriate D12. it never worked from factory (i could have just swapped the pin and made it functional but i had previously decided that it was being removed altogether) waiting for it to stop snowing and then ill start fitting the power doors i guess I'm doing a complete tear down and re wire, i have my dash on the bench and currently thinning out the wiring harness on that also. plan is to have it painted and running for may long wheelin will post some pics someday, theres just so many to go through and sort chronologically that I tend to put it off tell it gets to overwhelming lol my other comanche is still alive! just rolled 80K Miles on her too (~129Kish km)
  15. follow cruiser54's valve cover mod. http://cruiser54.com/?p=131
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