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About MancheKid86

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    MJ Junkie

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    Winfield, B.C Canada

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  1. i know this topic has been asked a million times, but I am going to ask it again (for the fact it is 2020, and there must be some more options available to what is found in the search) looking for recomendations on a 3 link kit. i have 2.5" lift built into the axle and 7.5" lift coils, on paper 10" but about 8.5 with the coil sag and extra metal on the front. what would the community reccomend? the truck has been running modified short arms robert bryce built in the early 90's and with the 40' tires the unibody is finally to not play anymore (i have a complete frame stiffener kit waiting to go on as well so integretity is not an issue) thanks in advanced
  2. looking to see if a member has the factorys dimensional drawings for the engine bay/cab/inner fenders. i have found the lwb frame dimensional drawings but nothing else. almost ready to drag it to my neighbours and hook it up to his frame straightener thanks in advanced
  3. starting to get back onto my comanche rebuild. that being said i need to decide what ecu and wide band i will use to tune the 4.7L stroker (Robert Bryce's original homebuilt 4.5L stroker from the 90's) doing some research, i have found the AEM and MS to be the most suitable choice for my application. though, never doing standalone before, i am competent and just need some input on people who have went standalone, for why they have went the route they have chosen. i have access locally to a dyno/tuner so tuning won't be an issue. as title states, this a a renix (93 HO block, with renix sensors) jeep. Thanks
  4. I switch between both, buckets for me and a copilot, bench for an extra person wanting to wheel. and when i take one of my dogs out i remove the passenger bucket and fill the passenger side of the cab with blankets so they have some where to lay down (big dogs)
  5. oh there defintley will be trouble and "hold my beer" moment in this its inbetween an tj drive shaftshaft an xj driveshaft in length if accuracy counts haha i crawled under the thing in the daylight today and the forsale add wasnt totally true........it does not have a twin stick 205....... it has a northwest fab 203/205 doubler!!!!!!!! slightly dissapointed that it wasnt a split 205, but EXTREMELY excited about the doubler, my buddy decided to gift me the northwest fab tripple shifter toomplete it and make it go front wheel drive or rear wheel drive
  6. i have no idea why i bought this, but its sweet, it showed up on my social media for dirt cheap, after my friends were off work we were off to get it, later on that night we showed up and did a quick exchange, it was dark out and hadnt even seen it in the day light. currently its on 35" boggers, the rear are cut and is set up for mud racing slightly modified, has a rollerized small block chevy 350 bored .010 with arp studs. rebuilt turbo 350 with high stall torque converter b&m megashifter, twin stick 205 transfercase, radius arm links front and rear, down travel limited to zero by limit straps, locked dana 44 full width 4.88 gears , over knuckle steering, locked 14 bolt rear 4.88 gears, rear mounted radiator and a roll cage it is FAST, i don't doubt i can get the front tires off the ground my plans are to run it this winter, remove the limit straps, get longer shocks and let the suspenion get a work out. i will be putting 39.5" super swampers on it to do some snow wheeling (yes... a tracker on 39.5" tires may have to move the flares a bit but nothing major) in the summer i will change the shocks back out and reinstall the limit straps and boggers there are a few mud races held around the area here that i would like to attend more pictures to follow
  7. Well its been a little while since i made much progress on the truck. i have the passenger repairs almost finished, just need to trim my newly made floor pan a bit more and can start welding it all together. my neighbor is a legend, spent about 6 hours with me forming the passenger pan and rolling it smooth it turned out great! as you can see i messed up and cut it a bit short off the sheet so i had to add some more metal back in but other than that I'm very pleased with the home made floor pan. here are some pictures, will have more soon
  8. the rest of my bits showed up for the engine put the new harmonic balancer on and was able to index the distributor started up on the sheet metal again, made my fire wall repair patch, just need to roll/shrink the edge for the pinch seam and start to fit it. gave the top of the unibody a quick grind to remove any galvonizing and sprayed some zinc weld thru primer in prep for the new pans. removed the rock sliders to be replaced and it also made the acess to start the rocker repairs that much easier! it is slightly crusty in there, ill see how much of it is left after a bit of a wire brush XD
  9. new header showed up, waiting on a few more bits then the engine is finished! i cleaned and spray tested each injector prior to installing them in the manifold here is some more pictures
  10. i can only imagine your thoughts when you split the casing, it sure cleaned up nice though! diggin the new drivers side latch you fabbed!
  11. i have finally recieved my engine from the machine shop! bored .060 over with a more agressive cam shaft than i have previously had i quickly went assembling it, i installed the exhaust and intake manifold and found some issues with the header (imcompatibility) which some of you have probably read my tech thread i have ordered a new manifold so in the further photos that is why the intake and exhaust are back off. one thing that had been missing for longer than i have owned rye guy's ol' black n tan is the cam bolt spring and tensioner pin (there was indication of the bolt physically contacting timing cover!!!!!!! and possibly why i had a dished lifter/worn lobe) i had to go to pick n pull and get another. a few good smacks with a hammer and chisel and the timing cover casing chipped apart revealing my much needed hardware. this is where I'm at, sorry about the mess in the pictures LOL waiting for the exhaust and harmonic balancer before i can finish assembling and timing the engine quickly scuffed and painted the oil pan, nothing crazy I'm just going to scrape it up again once I'm done the engine ill be definitley motivated to finish the sheetmetal work and paint more to come
  12. i have found a dead hole on the otherside of the block that would be a sufficient relocation that is +/- an inch from the factory KS location. there would be a simple adapter needed to mount the velocometer. i have chosen to not go this route for the reasons being the pace setter header the machine shop had given me is indeed for a TJ and not a xj/mj the forward bank points directly towards the front differential, where as in a tj the front axle would be much further forward of the engine and would not be an issue long story short, knock sensor is in its factory location. i have ordered a new header and this one is going up for sale to recoop some of the purchase price of the new manifold. thank you for the reply's and entertaining my idea
  13. long story short, i have been given a free (used) pace setter headder for my 4.7L build. the forward bank goes directly in the way of the factory blind hole the accelerometer attaches to. now my question. i understand the overall diameter of the holes themselves are different and would require some modifications to have it fastened to the block. other than that does anyone see a reason why i cannot just relocate the knock sensor further back to the blind hole between cyl 5/6? vs the factory location cyl three?
  14. the best way to get rid of cigarette smell out of the jeep will be a bit tedious, but VERY effective. it involves, removing the entire interior. dash, air distrobution box plastics ect. cigarettes leave a tar like residue once the smoke disipates. so when still in smoke form, its easier to get behind interior plastics. where the lingering smell usually resides. mix some tsp or what ever detergent your going to use, hand wash and dry all the metal to the pillars, fire wall, ect hand wash the plastics inside and out same with the dash STEAM CLEAN the seats and, if you have a fabric carpet do the same to that the biggest is the air distrbution box. it is disgusting in there usually. it NEEDS to be disassembled, thoroughly cleaned of dirt and washed/ hand dried to ensure all the junk is out. reassemble and your jeep will smell AMAZING
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