Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About JustEmptyEveryPocket

  • Rank
    Comanche Fan

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Minuit, Is the retaining rivet the one that gets ground off? Because I didn't think that stuck down far enough to keep these things in place.
  2. Noob question here, looking for some basic explanations: My MJ has a Ford 8.8 rear end, and I have been working on the e-brake. At the same time, I am swapping to a 97+ XJ hand lever. Currently I have the cabling figured out, the handbrake in the cab figured out, and am down to the adjustments. Which is where the problems are. I have done the following: adjusted the star wheel in the 8.8 until I can barely get the rotor on, and it has drag when I spin it (I spin it down on the drivers side and up on the passenger side. Is this correct?) tightened the nut at the equalizer until the cables are taut pulled the hand brake up spun the rear tires to see if it is grabbing I have repeated all these steps 3-4 times and am not getting any results. Sometimes it seems that the ebrake is grabbing if I spin the tire backwards. Other times I completely lose any feeling of drag when I spin the tire. When I gave up tonight the adjuster seemed to be getting looser, not tighter. What am I missing? The only things I can think of are the initial parking brake pad adjustment followed by tightening the nut at the parking cable equalizer. So how can I tell if a). The pads are in enough contact with the rotor when the parking brake is NOT engaged b). The cables at the adjuster are "tight" enough. ie: how much slack or tension should there be? This is driving me crazy!
  3. I found a pair of decent 90 2-door XJ seats. So I grabbed them and brackets from krustyballer and have been slowly working on installing them. The PO on my MJ installed some buckets seats by hacking up the original brackets and then using plywood to mount everything. There are no tracks, levers, springs, etc on my seats. Just the buckets, plywood, and cut to hell brackets. When I was drilling and grinding off the XJ brackets the pieces pictured below fell out. Where did they come from, what do they do, and how do I put them back where they go? Thanks!
  4. There is always the DIY option, HERE. Costly to start, but gives you so many options down the road.
  5. HERE is a good write-up for the WJ. HERE is one for a 96 XJ. Its a project I have been needing to do for quite a while.Here is hoping for time this spring.
  6. So I finally had some time to get back in and play around with this some more. First of all I took a new reading from the pink w/ black tracer wire that the light plugs into. Went from the wire back to the battery so I had a known good ground. It read 13 WAIT FOR IT mV. That is right, I must have misread it the first time around and I feel like a dumb@ss now. Went back to C118 connector (big thanks to Ohm for the help in reading the schematics) and checked voltage at the pink wire in the connector. It has 12.6V, and yes I tripled check to make sure it read V and NOT mV. Then I thought to measure resistance from the body side of the C118 connector's pink wire and the pink w/ black tracer in the b-pillar. When I hooked my meter on it, it started with a crazy high value (M-ohms), but then slowly came down and ended with 0 ohms. I take that to mean that the wire is complete, ie no breaks in it. Finally, as I was running out of ideas I ran a wire directly from the positive side of the battery to the pink w/ black tracer in the b-pillar to see what would happen. The lights came on! Unfortunately, they did not go off when the door switch was depressed, but stay on constantly in both the "door open" setting and when I switched the lens to "always on". If I switched the lens to the "off" position they went off like normal. So somewhere I am losing power to the wire. And possible have a problem with the door switch. But the power in is the big problem right now. Since I have power at the C118 connector, I need to trace the wire from there. Looking at the diagram on page 62 of the electrical manual Ohm linked, I need to find the "B" splice point. Anyone happen to know where that is? Anything else I need to check? Thanks again for all the help yall.
  7. From my first post: I tested power back to the battery. Then I tested from the power wire to each of the ground wires at the b-pillar light. One of them gave me a constant 13V reading, and the other read 13V until I depressed the door switch, then it read nothing. I pulled the fuse today and it looked fine, no melting. So now I will try to trace the wires you are pointing me towards. Thanks for your help looking that up. I did ohm the ground wires measuring back to the battery. I don't remember the numbers exactly, but they were not over 10ohms. Plus, if I ran a test light from the red wire in the b-pillar through a bulb and back to negative on the battery then the bulb should light up. It didn't. This leads me to believe it is not a ground problem. Am I wrong with this idea? Granted, the ground may not be great, but I think there is a larger problem somewhere. Thanks for all the help so far guys.
  8. I ran a test light from the red power wire through a bulb and back to battery ground. Nothing. So I guess this means I am reading 'ghost' voltage? I suck at reading electrical schematics. Can anyone point me to where the red power wire goes?
  9. Neither side works. I don't think its a fuse because I have backprobed the connectors with my voltmeter a couple of times since wiring it in. Also note I had benched tested both of the lights I installed. They both worked then. Where do the wires from the b-pillar ground at? I can check that end.
  10. Sorry to start yet another one of these threads, but I am having an issue and need input from people smarter than me: First of all, my truck's interior lights have never worked. When I got the truck the lights were pulled and the plugs were taped off and stuffed down behind the b-pillar trim. I am tired of it being dark in there, and saw some recent threads on this, so I went for it. I pulled some interior lights from an 01 VW golf, like the ones mentioned in THIS thread. They seemed perfect as they had the same functionality and fit into the same hole without mods. So I started trying to wire them in. I bench tested the lights from the battery and found that the red wire was power in, blue was switched ground, and tan was solid ground. Found this by trial and error, while connecting the wires in different configurations and flipping the lens back and forth. Then I got in my truck and put my voltmeter on the three wires. I had 13V in the red wire measured back to the battery. Then I measured from the red wire to the black wire with white tracer and it showed a switched 13V, going to zero every time I actuated the button in the door frame. I assumed the solid black wire was the solid ground. They are wired in as red to red, black w/ tracer to blue, and solid black to tan. After all that, I have no lights. Zero. Nothing in any position. Where did I go wrong here? What should I check/ test next? Side question: while I was fishing around on the driver's side behind the b-pillar I found a wire like the one in the fourth post HERE. What is it? Thanks for any and all help.
  11. interesting. Now I just have to keep my eye out for one of those. Thanks.
  12. Do you happen to have a picture of this part? When I got my MJ it was missing most of the interior trim and I have been trying to get it all back to stock. Not sure I know about this piece at all....
  13. I remember Cruiser talking about this. Found it on his page HERE. So modifying will be your best bet. What is this about a harness directly to the ECU? I have never heard of that. Got more info somewhere?
  14. I will say that for my engine swap I looked at the timing chain when the oil pan was off and noticed a lot of slop. Didn't have time, money, or parts to fix it then. 15,000 miles later and everything still seems good *knock on wood*. It is on my 'one day' project list. So IMHO the timing chain can wait if you are really in a time and money crunch. The one piece oil pan gasket is definitely the way to go btw. Make sure to use the install clips as it makes it way easier for holding it in place and getting the alignment right. I didn't find them at the bottom of the box till I was already done struggling with it . Good luck.
  15. If your old cluster had the dummy lights only, then it has an oil pressure switch which only has on and off. You needs to install an oil pressure sensor so it can feed info to the new gauge. Easy enough to do, just be careful removing the switch. Too much force can snap things, then it becomes a bad day very quickly. A little late now, but THIS is an awesome thread to read through for this type of swap.
  • Create New...