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About JustEmptyEveryPocket

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    Comanche Fan

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  1. If it was my money, I would buy adjustable arms. Like THESE. Then I could dial everything in myself. Personally, I set my caster to about 10 degrees. I know that ~7* is stock, but I like the road feel of a little more angle. This is only possible because I have adjustable uppers and lowers. Not everyone's cup of tea though.
  2. Eagle, I thought Hornbrod did the different sway bar mounts. Like THESE HERE.
  3. Kjell: My guess would be the trick was unplugging and replugging the TPS connector. Probably helped seat a pin better or some such. Either that, or you have a 91 or 92 MJ with the HO motor. That ECU has adaptive memory. But Renix is basically a complex series of switches and nothing else, no memory anywhere, etc. OP: I would listen to Ohm and Cruiser54. They should get you to the answer soon.
  4. Cleaning the connectors is an okay thing to do, just be careful if you use any solvents. No need to "reset" the ECU though. Renix does not have adaptive memory, so it doesn't do anything. Every time the engine starts up is like a brand new start from ECU perspective.
  5. The the turn signal lever actuates a rod that follows the steering column down to a switch. This switch controls high beam operation.
  6. My $0.02: I would grab a tape, pick a point to measure from on each tire, and take measures from front tire to back tire on each side, RF tire to LR tire, and LF tire to RR tire. I would agree with JeepDriver that most likely your frame or axle is tweaked off, causing it to pull.
  7. The only reason I haven't jumped in and done this already is because of that firewall molestation. Well that and I am lazy. *joking* Cruiser54, a lot or a little it is still truck molestation, just ask the catholic priests. Thanks for the idea Jeep Driver. Did you buttweld the two pieces of booster rod? Or sleeve them? And any chance you remember the thickness of your spacer?
  8. Jeep Driver: How did you extend the rod? With your spacer, were you able to leave the lip of the firewall unmutilated? Eagle: The warning light was a nice bonus. I am not above running without it, but if I can have it all the better.
  9. My brakes have gotten bad (step on the pedal and it goes halfway to the floor and makes a terrible hissing sound). Anyways, I have an 01 WJ booster and master to install. As part of this I want to delete my Rear Height Sensor (its being tied up with string right now). Since I would be doing all this I want to re-run the brake lines themselves as they are starting to look kinda crusty. To simplify life I was thinking about getting THIS and removing the distribution block as well, and starting from fresh. Does anyone see a problem with doing this? Has anyone used this product before?
  10. Minuit, Is the retaining rivet the one that gets ground off? Because I didn't think that stuck down far enough to keep these things in place.
  11. Noob question here, looking for some basic explanations: My MJ has a Ford 8.8 rear end, and I have been working on the e-brake. At the same time, I am swapping to a 97+ XJ hand lever. Currently I have the cabling figured out, the handbrake in the cab figured out, and am down to the adjustments. Which is where the problems are. I have done the following: adjusted the star wheel in the 8.8 until I can barely get the rotor on, and it has drag when I spin it (I spin it down on the drivers side and up on the passenger side. Is this correct?) tightened the nut at the equalizer until the cables are taut pulled the hand brake up spun the rear tires to see if it is grabbing I have repeated all these steps 3-4 times and am not getting any results. Sometimes it seems that the ebrake is grabbing if I spin the tire backwards. Other times I completely lose any feeling of drag when I spin the tire. When I gave up tonight the adjuster seemed to be getting looser, not tighter. What am I missing? The only things I can think of are the initial parking brake pad adjustment followed by tightening the nut at the parking cable equalizer. So how can I tell if a). The pads are in enough contact with the rotor when the parking brake is NOT engaged b). The cables at the adjuster are "tight" enough. ie: how much slack or tension should there be? This is driving me crazy!
  12. I found a pair of decent 90 2-door XJ seats. So I grabbed them and brackets from krustyballer and have been slowly working on installing them. The PO on my MJ installed some buckets seats by hacking up the original brackets and then using plywood to mount everything. There are no tracks, levers, springs, etc on my seats. Just the buckets, plywood, and cut to hell brackets. When I was drilling and grinding off the XJ brackets the pieces pictured below fell out. Where did they come from, what do they do, and how do I put them back where they go? Thanks!
  13. There is always the DIY option, HERE. Costly to start, but gives you so many options down the road.
  14. HERE is a good write-up for the WJ. HERE is one for a 96 XJ. Its a project I have been needing to do for quite a while.Here is hoping for time this spring.
  15. So I finally had some time to get back in and play around with this some more. First of all I took a new reading from the pink w/ black tracer wire that the light plugs into. Went from the wire back to the battery so I had a known good ground. It read 13 WAIT FOR IT mV. That is right, I must have misread it the first time around and I feel like a dumb@ss now. Went back to C118 connector (big thanks to Ohm for the help in reading the schematics) and checked voltage at the pink wire in the connector. It has 12.6V, and yes I tripled check to make sure it read V and NOT mV. Then I thought to measure resistance from the body side of the C118 connector's pink wire and the pink w/ black tracer in the b-pillar. When I hooked my meter on it, it started with a crazy high value (M-ohms), but then slowly came down and ended with 0 ohms. I take that to mean that the wire is complete, ie no breaks in it. Finally, as I was running out of ideas I ran a wire directly from the positive side of the battery to the pink w/ black tracer in the b-pillar to see what would happen. The lights came on! Unfortunately, they did not go off when the door switch was depressed, but stay on constantly in both the "door open" setting and when I switched the lens to "always on". If I switched the lens to the "off" position they went off like normal. So somewhere I am losing power to the wire. And possible have a problem with the door switch. But the power in is the big problem right now. Since I have power at the C118 connector, I need to trace the wire from there. Looking at the diagram on page 62 of the electrical manual Ohm linked, I need to find the "B" splice point. Anyone happen to know where that is? Anything else I need to check? Thanks again for all the help yall.
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