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JustEmptyEveryPocket

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About JustEmptyEveryPocket

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    Comanche Fan

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  1. Since you snapped it off already, can you get in there with a regular socket? Might give you more options. I guess worst case scenario is to take it to a mechanics shop and pay them to blast it out. Replace it in their parking lot on your own. Make sure to put some high temp anti-seize on the threads of the new one.
  2. To help remove the rest of the O2, here is what I would try: Run the truck up to temp, park it in your workspace, immediately hose down the area with PB blaster or similar (have a fire extinguisher at hand), and try to wrench it out when hot. That will give you your best chance at removal. If that doesn't work, since it already broken you might try tapping around the area with a hammer to try and loosen it up. After that .... the only things I can think of get far uglier and more brutal. So keep your fingers crossed.
  3. Easiest, fastest, and quickest would be to replace your 4.0 with another 4.0. Should be cheap and easy to get something from a JY or a retailer. Not to mention it simplifies EVERYTHING else with an engine swap. My $0.02
  4. I can't help with the weak point part of this, but I did want to say I would be interested in buying a pair of taillights when you start production. Depending on aesthetics and price point of course. Sounds like an awesome idea though!
  5. Eagle, I thought there was a company who starting making 5.13s that would fit in a Dana 30? Anyone know if that is true?
  6. I put in some from an 01 VW Golf. They should be the same from mid-90s all the way into 2006 on Golf, Jetta family of cars. Don't quote me on that year range, going from memory there. They fit in the stock location without filing or grinding. However, I did have to snip wires and reconnect them. Was not bad to do at all. Plus, like cruiser said, I can now see my cab at night.
  7. Here is my opinion: Fix and drive what you have right now. Don't put any money into upgrades until you have all the problems sorted. Once you have a nice stock, reliable, safe driver, then worry about upgrades. Also my opinion (less popular by far): get a mild lift and run 31s. Anything bigger and you start destroying the 'Comanche' from the truck. There are better starting platforms if your goal is truly 6" of lift + 35" tires. All that said, its your truck, do what you want with it.
  8. THESE are my personal favorites. Found them on my old 85 BJ73 Land Cruiser. Not sure if you can find them, but worth a search at least. They are easy to deal with, and I have never had one fail on that 3B engine. A brief search showed several auctions on eBay, so you should be able to find some if you are interested.
  9. THIS THREAD is the best one to follow in my opinion. Good luck with the swap, its well worth it.
  10. I would weld it personally. Hold a nut on the outside and fill it up with wire.Then let it cool a bit and wrench it out.
  11. My opinion: This is a great project to start with, if you want to work on your Comanche yourself. A basic socket set and a big hammer should be all that you need. Plus some PB Blaster or similar. Check out THIS video by BleepinJeep. Its a great walkthrough. THIS is another good video that will show you have to remove the front axle shafts. So like Pete said, watch some videos and see what you think you are up for.
  12. When I get around to doing the WJ swap I plan on doing something similar to Dasbulliwagen. However, I am going to use a die to cut threads on both the WJ brake arm and the piece cut from the original. That way I can use the stock brake light switch and literally dial in my pedal height. I figure to use a coupler and drill & tap it for two sets screws to keep things from moving when all is said and done. Also this way I don't have to mentally worry about my welding skills (which absolutely suck).
  13. Is your clutch master leaking onto it? Because if so you are gonna have a long road to get it running again. I think other members with this issue replaced the entire fuse box by re-pinning one wire at a time. And fixing any corrosion along the way obviously. Post back with a few more details like engine and trans and what type of leak you are talking about.
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