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JustEmptyEveryPocket

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About JustEmptyEveryPocket

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  1. THIS is the best tool for the job. No more sucking gasoline directly into the lungs.
  2. Could you get a tubing cutter in there? No sparks and they are fairly compact. Also, seems like the float arm would be easy to modify if you knew what length was needed. Cut it and use electric pixies to melt in extra length.
  3. NEVER EVER trust the parts store monkeys. NEVER! Your fuel pressure should be 31 with vacuum at the regulator and 39 without while running. Before running you should have close to those numbers when the pump primes. Also it should retain pressure for at least some time after you shut the truck off.
  4. I have been assuming we are talking about a 4.0L engine here. If thats the case, then your fuel pump is almost dead. You can try to refresh the ground for it behind the driver's taillight. Otherwise, looking into replacing the pump. Those fuel numbers are no good at all.
  5. car-part.com Find a used 1994+ AX-15 in your area. Buy the bushing, master + line + slave combo. Install. Never look back. I did mine, all in, for ~$550-600.
  6. In my (admittedly limited) experience there are two rules for long engine life: Make sure there is always oil in it. Never let it overheat. In my fleet I own one vehicle with less than 200,000 miles on it. Everything else is between 250,000 and 350,000. I check oil levels weekly and always keep an eye on the temp gauge. Seems to be working for me so far. Run it till it breaks!
  7. Have you tried all the steps mentioned in this thread? Lots of good info there. (Sorry, couldn't help myself.)
  8. I feel like that should be called a "back-up plan". Maybe a back-back-up plan . . .
  9. My parents used to play a fun game with me on long road trips. It was called "Sit Still and Shut Up." Can you guess the rules? It did help me develop a very active imagination. Not a game I recommend for your nephews though.
  10. CPS Testing - directly from Cruiser54. Fuel Pressure- I don't know what numbers you should have with just the key on. Mostly I am interested in how quickly the gauge registers, how high it goes, and how quickly (or if) it leaks down. Then after you start the truck what number does the gauge show? At that point it should be 31 with vacuum to the FPR and 39 without. Then after you shut the truck off, how long does it take before the gauge drops to zero?
  11. Check CPS numbers, as well as refresh all the main ground points. After that, get a fuel pressure number. Both just by cycling the key and while running.
  12. 15W40 Rotella T6 is all I use. And I mean across the tractor, my wife's car, my truck, the pulling truck, that other jeep, that other other jeep, .... you get the idea. Also Wix or Wix XP filters. Is there an emoji of a jeeper just handing bags of money to a parts store? I need that one.
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