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About JustEmptyEveryPocket

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    Comanche Aficionado

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  1. Refer to my first post then. Buy the tank without a baffle and put in a cherokee sending unit. Done and done.
  2. Imagine reading this early morning, before coffee, and the picture didn't load. So much violence!
  3. For a tank I have used Spectra JP5A or JP5B, can't remember which one. One of them has the baffle in the bottom and one does not. I ordered both through Oriellys and kept the one I wanted. Technically you can still get the correct fuel pump. What you are talking about is the entire fuel pump & fuel sender combo. Four options here, as I see it: Buy the tank without the baffle in it, and use the Cherokee sending unit. No problems there, unless fuel slosh becomes an issue Buy the tank with the baffle and get the fuel pump only. Retrofit the pump into your current sending unit. Check the thread out HERE. Buy the tank with the baffle and get the fuel pump & sender unit that is Comanche correct from MTS Company. Check the thread out HERE. Go full custom and do something else awesome. That is the route I went. Personally I got tired of pulling the fuel tank because of crappy replacement pumps so I redid EVERYTHING and went with an external pump. Some like it, some hate it. Do what works best for you and your wallet.
  4. Did you find the bolt that holds the speedo cable by the driver side control arm? If you remove it from there you can push way more of the cable up into the cab, thereby making the backside of the cluster much easier to see and get to.
  5. My BA 10-5 did great for a bunch of miles (maybe ~50,000 for me, ~200,000 total?). It started howling in fifth gear and I ignored it. Drove like that for months and several thousand miles before something went *BANG BANG*. Then my poor truck stopped putting power to the wheels, the smell of hot gear oil invaded the cab, and I coasted to the side of the road. Had to get trailered home after that. But its back up and going with a 96 AX-15. So my words of minor wisdom would be fix it for easy parts until something internally goes *pop*, then replace the whole sheebang with a 94+ AX-15. Good luck.
  6. These are awesome tools. Well worth the investment, even for just a few holes. I use them when putting together some red iron buildings (dang engineers and their incorrect hole placements! ), but same difference.
  7. Mevotech TTX Ball Joints might be a good option compared to Moog. I have read several user reviews that they are great quality for the price. YMMV For me, ball joints are one of those jobs that I want to do once and do right because it sucks.
  8. Oh no, how will I manage another month or two without those parts? My truck's 33 year old ones might not make it, and then the rattling will annoy me. While I drive no-where because my county is still heavy duty quarantine-ing. In other words, I am not in any rush either. Thanks for being willing to do 34 different print and ships.
  9. To me it sounds like the shop doesn't want the job. So they priced it stupid high with the double sided benefit that either 1. you would walk away or 2. they would make a silly amount of money for the job.
  10. Could you provide a link? In my 5 minutes of googling I found plenty of precision mfg companies, but none seemed to make jeep parts.... Sorry for my lack of Google-Fu
  11. I think its a line from a gen2 dodge 1500 (think 1997 or so). Look at those specs and see if it gets you close enough.
  12. She threw out a perfectly good piece of pizza? Time for a divorce. (<-- totally joking)
  13. You ever read something and think .... "That's violently American"?
  14. For a triple check, could you post the part numbers here?
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