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JustEmptyEveryPocket

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About JustEmptyEveryPocket

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  1. JustEmptyEveryPocket

    Pulling my 4.0L what should be done?

    I will say that for my engine swap I looked at the timing chain when the oil pan was off and noticed a lot of slop. Didn't have time, money, or parts to fix it then. 15,000 miles later and everything still seems good *knock on wood*. It is on my 'one day' project list. So IMHO the timing chain can wait if you are really in a time and money crunch. The one piece oil pan gasket is definitely the way to go btw. Make sure to use the install clips as it makes it way easier for holding it in place and getting the alignment right. I didn't find them at the bottom of the box till I was already done struggling with it . Good luck.
  2. JustEmptyEveryPocket

    Xj Cluster Swap

    If your old cluster had the dummy lights only, then it has an oil pressure switch which only has on and off. You needs to install an oil pressure sensor so it can feed info to the new gauge. Easy enough to do, just be careful removing the switch. Too much force can snap things, then it becomes a bad day very quickly. A little late now, but THIS is an awesome thread to read through for this type of swap.
  3. JustEmptyEveryPocket

    1989 Comanche 4.0 2wd to 4wd Conversion

    I just finished an AX-15 swap in my truck. Its really not that bad of an endeavor. Do a google search for "site:comancheclub.com ax-15 swap" and read all the articles. Different ones cover different issues. There is a specific pilot bushing to use, make sure to get the transmission mount plate from the bottom of your donor AX-15, the crossmember from the donor, and in my opinion get THIS shift linkage for the transfer case. Those are all of the major pieces to think about. I can tell you that the AX-15 shifts WAY better than my BA10-5 ever did. Especially after the BA10-5 exploded and left me stranded on the side of the road.
  4. JustEmptyEveryPocket

    Pulling my 4.0L what should be done?

    Personally I would check compression before pulling the head. If compression is close to equal on all cylinders then I would leave the head and head gasket alone. The only things that I would do with the engine out of the truck is the rear main seal, oil pan gasket, and intake/exhaust gasket. Everything else can be done without too much issue with the engine in the truck. Have you looked at the oil? Color/ consistency/ taste etc. Between that and a compression check you should be able to make a good decision. Value my advice for exactly what you paid for it though. Good luck.
  5. If I remember correctly I also had to remove the speedo cable from a stud down by the lower control arm on the outside of the truck to get enough slack to unclip it from the backside of the cluster. Just follow the speedo cable from the transfercase (transmission) up the framerail and you will see the stud I am talking about. Remove the nut and pull the cable off the stud and push some of the slack into the cabin. Shouldn't be too bad and it will start giving you a good understanding of your truck and where things are and how they work. As other members say "Jeep On".
  6. THIS THREAD goes through the entire dash removal. You will not need to go that far, just do the first couple of steps. It gives you locations of screws and tips on how to remove some pieces. Again, you do NOT need to remove the entire dash to replace cluster bulbs, so don't read the article and feel overwhelmed. Its actually not that bad to remove the cluster itself.
  7. JustEmptyEveryPocket

    2.5L to 4.0L Swap

    I may be wrong on this, but the 86 firewall is not made to accommodate the 4.0L engine. So you would need some serious fab skills to make that work, not that it can't be done of course. Also I don't think the motors mated to the same transmission (assuming automatic?). If they are manuals then I know they are not the same transmission. Anything is possible with time and money. Just may not be the easiest or fastest. What is the final plan here? or the reason for the swap?
  8. Let me say: Welcome to the addiction! And with that, here is some advice in addition to what the gurus have said: 1. Read all the threads you can. Even if it doesn't make sense or seems like a rabbit hole, read through it. The more you learn the better off you will be. 2. Do your own work on the truck. It takes some gumption and tools, but is more than worth it in the end result. No more wondering if someone else "did it right". 3. Just drive it for a while. No lift kits, no bigger tires, nothing extra. Get used to what is there first, and fix EVERYTHING that is wrong as you find it. Changes come later. Good luck, and I hope you enjoy the truck!
  9. JustEmptyEveryPocket

    BA 10/5 really a bad transmission?

    my two cents: When researching my transmission swap I found lots more articles, information, parts, and guidance for the AX-15. Plus they can be found in jeeps from 1989 (midway year change) to 1999. The NV3550 was available in the 2000 and 2001 cherokee (not sure about wranglers) so there was a lot less out there for me to find. For me the background, documentation, and information on the AX-15 made it the hands down better choice.
  10. JustEmptyEveryPocket

    Harmonic Balancer?

    Also make sure to rent the install tool while you are at it. Once its returned its a zero cost to you, so why not have it on hand? At least my local place the removal and install are two separate tools.
  11. JustEmptyEveryPocket

    Replacing idler pulley

    Sometimes the slider is slightly frozen in place. I have had to smack the power steering reservoir with my hand a few times to get it to move.
  12. JustEmptyEveryPocket

    Pilar/Dome light

    This is the type of light in a 01 VW Golf. Happened to see it in the JY earlier. Not sure what other models and years they may be in.
  13. JustEmptyEveryPocket

    97 XJ e-brake with Ford 8.8

    AZJeff, thanks for the input, but I can't say that I am comfortable with welding on a new ferrule and trusting it. If that is my only option I will figure it out I guess. However, I want to see if anyone came up with another solution? Maybe a different set of rear brake cables? If I remember right, Hornbrod did something with the stock MJ cables, but I can't seem to find that thread back. Anyone have the link?
  14. JustEmptyEveryPocket

    97 XJ e-brake with Ford 8.8

    I have been trying to put in a 97 XJ e-brake handle and so far getting it working is beyond me. Here is a run-down or what I have done. Read all the basic threads including this one, and this one, and this one, and also this one. So I thought I had a pretty good grasp of it. Putting the handle in wasn't bad. Drilled and used a piece of angle iron. Note that I plan on putting in another bolt to hold the angle iron from twisting. Just put it together to test the concept. I used the original front e-brake cable that was in my MJ and just looped the extra under the driver's seat like Alexia did. I used ZJ rear e-brake cables (can't remember driver or passenger side, whichever is longer). I think how they attach to the lever in the Ford 8.8 is self explanatory. btw, sorry for all the mud. I live on a gravel road. Also apologies on the blurry photo. I can take a better one if needed. Finally I noticed a complete lack of tension on the ZJ cables. So I began to tighten the *don't know the name of it thingy* inbetween the front e-brake cable and the two rear e-brake cables. But I ran out of adjustment before there was any tension in the lines. I can pull the handle in the cab and see no reaction on the lever in the axle's backing plate. Note that I can be really stupid, so assume nothing. What am I missing? My only thought is the I need to find some way of mounting my angle iron piece further back (away from the e-brake handle) to shorten the side in the *don't know the name of it thingy* inbetween the front e-brake cable and the two rear e-brake cables, pictured above. But in THIS THREAD it looks like his mounting point is CLOSER to the handle than mine even (picture below). So I must be missing something basic here.
  15. JustEmptyEveryPocket

    Transmission Cross Member Bolts

    Redrill and retap seems to solve it. Also had to clearance the slots in the crossmember since I went up a bolt size. Hopefully no more scares of the transmission falling down while driving.
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