jbellingham

I’ve been having an issue lately where I’ve got slight bogging/ sluggish acceleration when the engine is cold. Clutch is not slipping. Engine is not misfiring. The issue goes away once engine starts warming up. so far I’ve: - changed fuel filter - changed O2 sensor - checked vacuum lines - changed plugs and wires any suggestions would be appreciated!

Thanks guys - I took the shifter off and it looks to me like all 3 rods are properly aligned. Not sure what’s going on in there, but fortunately I was able to find an AX15 locally that came out of an 89 XJ. Planning to swap it out tomorrow and be rid of the Peugeot.

I ran into an issue today with my BA 10 transmission where suddenly i can only get it to shift into a couple gears. In neutral and reverse, I take my foot off the clutch and it wants to stall. Something seems to be messed up in there, and I’m hoping it’s a simple fix. I saw one video on you tube, where the guy said it might be misaligned shifter rods, but he didn’t really explain how to fix. Any help would be appreciated!

Ok - I lay under the truck while someone else sits inside. They pump the pedal a few times, then hold it down. I open the bleeder valve allowing air and fluid to come out, then close the valve and tell them to take foot of clutch. I repeat a couple times until there’s no air, and clutch pedal seems firm. Then I fill reservoir with fluiid, making sure that the level doesn’t drop too much. Then I drive for a few miles, clutch gets spongy and I repeat all over again. I’ve probably done this about 8 times now, and every time there’s more air coming out of the bleeder.

I recently changed the clutch, and have been having trouble getting the internal slave to bleed. I’ve probably bled it by hand, with a friend pressing clutch petal about 10 times. Every time I bleed, I get a little burst of air and then clutch its nice and stiff. I drive it for a few miles, and petal gets spongy again. I can’t imagine that there’s this much air in the system, but can’t see any fluid leaks. The master cylinder is fairly new, and was not acting up before I changed the clutch. Any suggestions?? Is it normal to take this long to eliminate air from the system??

Can I ask what you mean about open loop/ closed loop transitioning?? I recently changed the 02 sensor, so I assume that’s ok. It was doing the same thing with the old sensor. Basically, when the engine is cold it will idle nicely for about 15 seconds, then RPM will drop and the engine sounds like it’s labouring for 5 seconds or so, then RPMs increase for another 10-15 seconds, and it repeats over and over. Once the engine warms up, the idle usually straightens out. I assumed that this was abnormal, as I have a Jeep TJ with 4.0 that never acts that way when idling. ive done the following to try to resolve: - new idle control valve - new 02 sensor, - tps test and adjustment - ground refresh - swapped throttle body and vacuum line going to MAP

Hey everyone - installed new cps today (modified according to cruiser’s instruction), and the truck is starting again. Appreciate the help!! Ive got another issue, however, with idling. It idles at about 1000 rpm, then gets bogged down for a few seconds, and returns to normal idle speed. It was doing the same thing with the old engine, so I’m assumbig it must be a sensor... Any suggestions of where to look? At one point I changed both the tps and the idle control valve, but nothing seemed to change. From what I can tell there are no vacuum leaks - I’ve sprayed throttle cleaner all over and haven’t been able to find a leak. I was wondering if air bubbles in the coolant might cause this kind of surging??

Appreciate your help - I installed the new alternator and it seems to be working and charging fine with no voltage coming through the tan wire. Seems like like a really stupid idea to wire a vehicle so alternator quits working when dash light burns out....

Since we’re on the subject of cps, and it looks like I’m installing a new one, has anyone tried cruiser54 timing advance mod?? I’d like to give it a try, but don’t want to mess up my cps.

Should be ok in my case - I swapped a Renix for a Renix. Ordered my new cps today

Mt cps is only putting out 0.1- 0.2 at crank.... looks like that might be the culprit. I could kick myself now - I just swapped engine last week and thought about switching it out when I had easy access to the bell housing. It’s such a pain to reach....

I’ll give that a try, but just wondering whether the Jeep would run with bad cps?? Once I get it started it runs good...

I’ll give that a try, but just wondering whether the Jeep would run with bad cps?? Once I get it started it runs good...

Should also say that I completed an engine swap a few days ago - the truck was running and starting fine for a couple days, but then the issue started

Having some starting issues with my Jeep. Here’s what I’ve done so far: - Fuel Pressure - tests at 30 psi - alternator, battery, starter all test good - new distributer cap and rotor - crank position sensor shows proper resistance when I test with multimeter - truck will usually start with a boost, but will just crank when I start with ignition. Crank is strong - one it starts it runs good without any issues would appreciate any suggestions as I’m stumped... any chance the coil could be the issue??