DirtyComanche

Did the gauge move when you added fuel?

I think you'll find there really isn't much you can't do with only a 2x2, it's just not as efficient.

Wood cribbing.

Wow, almost 5100lbs empty. And I thought my JK was fat.

So other than hitting at static height, it fits perfect.

There isn't any consistency on the aftermarket flex plates, if you took that one back and exchanged it for another there would be a good chance it would be okay. Also, I don't trust Omix parts. They use OEM P/Ns to imply the are OEM parts. They are not. Often they will throw the cheapest Chicom junk in their box and send it out. BE WARNED.

Lots. 2.5L or 2.8L? Either way, you can just keep repairing or replacing things. Unless it rusts out completely.

Drive may be on its way out. Would recommend backing up right meow.

I'm quite curious about the rest of that transcript. The cut off comment above it seems interesting too.

What are you using for mount points? Ultimately you're going to need to measure them. I'm using almost stock length shocks with my SOA, because I put XJ style shock mounts on the axle. They're the longest I can run without having issues with them bottoming out before I'm on the bumpstops. If you have really low mounts on your axle you may be able to run longer, or if you have more bumpstop than I do. When you add a longer shackle or AAL it will absolutely change everything too.

No. Overpriced junk.

Agreed. Nothing ever changed with the synchros. If you order new ones now (I have a brand new set in a box) they are the same as they ever were.

Also a valid comment.

That Nicéphore Niépce didn't invent the camera phone strictly for selfies.

Assuming you have a TJ, as Pete also is guessing. Despite having zero experience on that model beyond doing basic maintenance and having never owned one, I'm still going to comment. Likely you can fix your issue by enlarging the hole in the floor for the shifter and running a larger shifter boot. If you have any sort of center console you will likely need to make modifications there too. Personally I would pull the body lift out, they're the source of all sorts of problems and just aren't worth dealing with.

Older ATF, such as our trucks were designed for, is typically about a 10W equivalent. I can assure you hot 10W30 would have no problem flowing through that cooler. But, you do NOT want to put a restriction of any sort on the return side of the oil from a turbo. You will have problems with the seals leaking, and potentially premature bearing wear. If you look at the literature on oil return requirements from most OEM turbo manufacturers, they make it fairly clear they want it to return to the pan via a large hose with as few bends in it as possible and with gravity doing all the work. Low mount turbos often wind up with scavenge pumps because of this, which is a solution that's just looking to give you a problem, and to run the return oil from a turbo through a cooler you would need to do something similar.

Ah, I love that attitude from a vendor.

Almost everything modern has them, and the OEMs would not have done so if they didn't see a benefit that justified the added cost. Cooler oil = longer life of the oil, and less chance of the oil actually reaching it's thermal failure point while in a bearing, so all around it's a better thing. However, a thermostatic valve is used to regulate oil temperature, so you won't be pumping oil through the cooler when it's not yet up to temperature, and that is a critical part of the system. Also, even more heat that is generated by the engine can be removed via the oil, although that is a bit moot if you're dumping that heat into the same undersized radiator used for the coolant. That said I don't know if anyone sells an adapter with a thermostat that works with the 4.0L. And I don't know if it would really be worth it to use the in rad setup meant for the automagic trans, it's not exactly the best setup.

I threw it all out. If you're willing to deal with eBay I guess it's worth something. I'm not. I don't know anyone locally that runs 2.5L stuff.

You shouldn't need one. A leaking clutch master is obvious and grounds for immediate replacement, unless you enjoy driving without a clutch. Edit, to the OP, I'd pull that fuse box out and clean it with isopropyl alcohol (as in basically submerge it in it) ASAP. Hopefully this has started recently so there isn't any damage yet.

Interesting. Not sure if that terrible picture they have is of the actual product or not? And how much it's actually including? If it's every line on the truck, then that's honestly a good price compared with dealing with making them yourself. If I could buy a kit that did the whole front of the truck, then just cut down or add a bit for the rear, that would be pretty awesome. Hmm. Maybe an XJ kit would be a better starting point.

Totally off topic, but that's a great show. Had never watched it until I became an uncle.

I highly recommend switching to a fringe browser (I use Pale Moon) and getting Adblock and Noscript (or Ghostery) for it. I can browse even the most ad infested VerticalScrooge forums without seeing them, while generally having the core content work as needed. I wouldn't recommend this as a method of browsing the rest of the internet, as the user experience is generally quite impacted (read that as most sites basically don't work, at all). Forums are mostly text and pictures so you don't need most of the advanced scripting, that's now so common, to actually work.

Very nice.

I don't have them anymore. Photobucket ate them and most of the other stuff I had. And I would buy a legit 01+ V8 WJ pump instead (not some reman that is the wrong one), assuming you're doing this because you have hydro assist. Better upgrade, as it is actually a higher displacement pump.