DirtyComanche

I believe Eagle has often lamented on how his leaked from brand new, in 1988.

Good luck... It's going to be the 97+ doors for me. Once I find a good pair.

Also, back to the first post. "Top end of the motor" Do you just mean the valve cover is leaking, or do you suspect you have a top end problem such as a bad valve, lifter, cam, etc?

Oh, and at 6" of lift I'd get a SYE. The HD style that replaces the mainshaft. People will tell you that you don't need one. They're wrong.

This. I'm sure people are sick of hearing my thoughts about axles, but too bad. What is the intended end usage of the trucks? If you're really going to wheel it, the XJ/MJ D30 is not up to 35s. Unless you have a D44 in the rear, you should have a D35, and it absolutely isn't up to pretty much any usage beyond trailering it to car shows with 35s. For a more pavement pounder type of a setup, you can get away with a D30 front with the 35s, but I would still steer away from it as it is asking for trouble down the road, and you will spend a lot of money on it to still be stuck with a quite weak axle. If I was you I would look at getting a set of JK take out axles. The JK D30 is superior to the XJ/MJ ones from a strength perspective, plus it is a little wider, the brakes are bigger, the steering isn't anywhere near as terrible, etc. It isn't a bolt in swap but it's not too bad. You can buy a pair of low mile JK axles from the wrecker for not a heck of a lot of money (varies by locality), often less than what all the parts to rebuild what you have will cost. The JK D44 rear is also superior to the now near impossible to find XJ/MJ ones, and it comes with disk brakes that are decent (they're admittedly a little undersized for a modern vehicle, but they're superior to the commonly swapped 8.8's brakes or the factory drums, and big brake kits are available). There's other potential downsides to these axles, in the bolt pattern is different, being 5x5, but that's actually a plus given the amount of JK take off wheels/tires there is for cheap. If you want a 6" lift you want to go SOA in the back, period. This will give you somewhere in the range of 5" of lift, depending on the axle used, spring perch height, if you keep the overloads, if you add a leaf to the packs, etc, so be prepared to do a little measuring to figure out where you will end up. Since this is the only viable option, there is no value in trying to find a MJ D44 that will bolt in, as you're going to be cutting the spring perches off and redoing them and the shock mounts. I'd buy a leaf spring swap kit from Ruffstuff for whatever axle you get, it comes with the spring perches, plates, proper (5/8") ubolts, etc. They also sell a variety of shock tabs and mounts. You'll want to figure out what shocks to order once you get the axle in there and can measure correctly. Be prepared to lengthen your bumpstops using some box tubing or the like, as I don't know if anyone sells bumpstop extensions for the MJ. Again, this is all stuff to figure out once the axle is in and the suspension can be cycled with the tires on to determine clearances. For a brake like the mid-90s Dakota rear line works nicely, and I'd use it over some potentially suspect aftermarket stuff. For the front you want a long arm lift. From who? I don't know, the last lift kit I bought was in 2005. Things have changed a lot with what the aftermarket offers since then. Radius arm setups have some fairly major inherent flaws in how they perform, but they're still popular, and they do work well despite the flaws. The instability issues they have are worse if you have a wristed setup, which I'm not sure if anyone is selling now but I have seen them in the past, but they do perform better offroad except for the stability. Most 3 link setups do not drive well at highway speeds, again this is something of a stability issue, and while my own XJ has a 3 link setup and it drives 'fine' it is by no means as good as it could be (I also don't have a front swaybar and I believe it would drive far better than any radius arm setup if I could figure out how to get one in there). There is some 4 link kits on the market and I'd probably lean towards them given that at 6" of lift there should be no packaging issues using them. With 35s you'll need a steering box brace as a minimum. The good types that plates both sides of the frame. No hokey clamp brace crap. You could waste money on Motobuilt's brace if you want (I believe it's them that offer a sector shaft brace), but they don't actually solve the issue (it will drive nicer with it, maybe). You'll need longer brake lines, you'll need bumpstops, longer swaybar links/disconnects, and you'll need to figure out steering. Part of the advantage of the JK axles is that you get crossover steering. What parts make it work? I don't know. If you stick with a regular XJ/MJ D30 you will need to do something, and there is some aftermarket options but most of them suck for one reason or another. Flipping the drag link and buying the later XJ/ZJ stuff would be a bare minimum solution. Do not run Heims on the street if you're looking at aftermarket steering kits. I build most of my own stuff, save for small pieces, individual brackets, springs, etc, so I have little idea what the aftermarket is offering. So that was a massive wall of text and you won't feel like reading it. So read this. You're about to embark on a massive modification to how the vehicle works, and you had better be prepared to do your research, buy the correct components, and build it right, otherwise the end result will likely not drive very well, will be unreliable, or might even be straight up dangerous.

Love the coastal rainforest!

I've been trying to carry a real camera more, since I do have some interesting opportunities but often need more than a cell phone. Currently packing around a Nikon D5300 with a 18-200mm F4.3-5.6 (or something like that) and a 12-20mm F5~ lens as it's compact enough for the plane and none of it is worth enough to get super upset over. This was today and yesterday, click for more proper sizing.

This Mark Felton guy has burned up a lot of my time: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfCKvREB11-fxyotS1ONgww Example: Over the last year he's switched his channel to covering somewhat oddball war history. Some of it is quite interesting. Drachinifel has also blown a ton of my time: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4mftUX7apmV1vsVXZh7RTw Example: Yeah, it's 42 minutes... But if you like warships, the guy is a very well read naval historian, and I like his dry British humour.

Take the intake hose off and see if the throttle is standing wide open at that point. I believe it should open until the stop, but it might not, it may be full open where it was and is over centering if you push it past that.

One of the things I miss about working in PA/Eastern US is the Yuengling. I guess they don't distribute in the west, and it's not like I ever get that far east anymore.

I've got three myself. Only 1 is in the registry on here. I know where my first one is (don't expect it to ever drive again), same guy has another (that likely will never drive again). And I know there's another one in town that's on the road, plus another two that are sitting in yards. So in a town on 90K people I know of 8.

There's guys on IHateMud and Pirate4x4 that would probably trade you their life savings for that thing.

This. If it failed I would pull the head and remove it on the bench, probably by drilling.

I believe early XJ full consoles all had the hole with the plug in it, and it then was phased out in favour of different console inserts for different option packages. I'm quite certain I have one around that is the same as that.

1986 Jeep Comanche LWB  2.5L/AX-5/D35 (2wd) LWB Build date: 05/04/86 Current Location: Northern BC Status: In storage at my place, no drivetrain in it, and the box is damaged badly from a tree falling on it. May be sold or eventually repaired. Notes: Not much evidence it was anything but a very base model truck, light blue interior and no frills. Currently has what looks like ZJ seats in it. Current owner: Me

Decode for me?

Screw living anywhere that the wind gets that strong on a regular basis. All of my trees would fall on my house/shop/vehicles if that happened.

I doubt it drives, body off or not. More likely they push it around or on/off the lowbed trailer. Even if it has bags I doubt it could be raised enough to be driven, not to mention that the transmission is totally in the cab. It possibly runs so it can sound cool at the show, but that's about it. I'm going to give them a participation ribbon because of their hard work, but that's about it.

Wow. Super cool. Blown away it's in such good shape. I'd love to get a hi-res done up as a poster for the wall!

TB spacers are mostly a myth. A larger TB or bored one might gain a little power, combined with a better intake and filter. For injectors everyone says to use the Volvo 746s on the Renix. I have them on one and Ford 710s on another. Neither vehicle is comparable to the other, besides both having Renix 4.0s, so I can't comment beyond they both run better than they did with old cruddy and leaking stock injectors.

Install an intake shutoff like the mine/gasfield trucks have. I don't think the kits are too much money, especially if you look around for a used one...

If you don't care if your (not working) warning light ever works again, you can just remove the factory oil pressure switch (it's not a sender) and replace it with the one you have. Somewhat related, anyone know what PSI the factory switch is supposed to turn the warning light on?

Wow Fiat. Integrated brake controllers have only been standard on trucks since about 2005. Hell, the company Dodge I'm driving right now has one.

Shouldn't the port for the pressure sending unit already be there, just with a pressure switch in it if you don't have a full gauge cluster? Or you want both a light and a gauge?

I'm not watching 20 minutes of boring crap to figure out what went on. Does the Gladiator not come with a factory brake controller?