DirtyComanche

Easy to just drop a regular shaft in a CAD axle.

Or just buy CV shafts and drop them in.

Seems excessive at that even. Maybe. Maybe my soda is louder than yours. Maybe I don't notice it because it's cold here most of the time. If you force gas up the vent lines and into the charcoal canister, it saturates the charcoal, and then won't vent until it dries out again.

I can buy them on Amazon for $13. But I need the HO tstat housing, which is probably $20 by the time I get it to my door. It has a shroud, plus the new style aux fan on a switch. The fan clutch is likely NFG which was what probably started all of this. Also I realized it had a 12~ PSI rad cap, which wasn't a problem as originally the overflow was plugged and it was still used as a closed system. I converted it to an open system as I didn't have space for the expansion bottle and it already had the correct radiator in it. I now have a new 16 PSI cap (correct for later XJs and closer to what the closed system runs for pressure), waterpump (no fault found in the old one, likely had been done shortly before I purchased it) and tstat (same as the pump, looked new, was even the correct 195 F, but was a cheap one), and the original debate was to order an XJ fan clutch or a ZJ one. I'm range limited with 37s and only 70L of gas, and don't want to lose more fuel economy. Burping it isn't a problem. Of course when I took all of this apart I realized my accessory drive idlers are all shot, and the alternator bearings are pretty terrible at best, plus I really meant to high mount the alternator and eliminate the idlers anyway... That all said, I still really would like to find a better mechanical fan.

Beyond the links, if the bushings that hold the swaybar to the frame go out it will cause more noise, plus it allows the swaybar to shift over and contact other things.

Doing more research on the ZJ fan clutch, I don't think I will go that way. The ZJ fan is much larger and heavier. It sounds like with the much smaller XJ fan on it the clutch tends not to disengage at all. Some users have reported increased noise and decreased fuel economy because of this. From a standpoint of economy I think switching to dual electric fans on temperature switches would likely be the best option. From a reliability standpoint I do like keeping the mechanical fan. I am somewhat torn and will do more digging. I guess I could put a HO style thermostat housing on it and that would net me two locations for temperature switches, which could allow for a fairly reasonable control system.

Mine is about as bad as those. There's a reason I have lockers in both axles of both of my DDs. As long as I use the plow to keep it clear and the chains on it to cut the ice it isn't bad. The lockers are for when I don't have time to do that right away.

I need the little boot that seals the shifter into the top case of a NV4500. I believe they're the same Dodge or GM, but my application is GM. Some random company makes them but they don't seem to ship to me and I can't get them from the usual sources. It's the type of thing that would fit in an envelope, so I'll ask for it... Everything else I want isn't shipped cross border easily.

I buy Dana/Spicer. SPL series. Okay, I "would" always buy them if I had time to order them. I've used all sorts of other joints from other brands, since nobody locally stocks Spicer SPL, all are junk in comparison to the actual Dana SPLs. The only problem is I'm stuck ordering them from Rockauto in advance if I want them.

Moog also makes the CC784, which is advertised as being a HD variable rate spring for a 4wd XJ/MJ. It will come out to being just a hair taller than the ZJ spring as it's basically the same length but has a few more pounds of rate to it. I've personally used neither, so no comment on which way I'd go. Rockauto has either for about $60 USD.

Where do you get fluid to? Did the line actually blow out, or did it seemed blocked? The line for the right front is prone to being damaged during engine removal/install.

Assuming it couldn't be a bolt on is a bit naive, the fan pulley uses a fairly generic pattern for the hub, and many different fans will fit it. The kicker is you need a reverse rotation fan that's small enough to actually fit in the minimal amount of space available. Full electric is great if your electrical system is working correctly. Experience has shown that temperature switch failures or anomalies seem to be common, which you certainly can address by using an override switch but at the expense of complicating the system. Having to run one fan constantly also adds a significant base load to your electrical system, which may not be an issue assuming you have enough alternator, and that that alternator is working; more than once I have made it home or off the trail with a dead alternator by shutting off everything I could and running the battery down, with an electric fan you would probably get about half the amount of run time versus not. What plastic fan do you have? If the blade profile is more modern then it probably does move more air, or at least isn't producing as much drag to do it. The factory mechanical fan is NOT an efficient profile.

4.0L related. Everyone who upgrades their mechanical fan does it in one of two ways, either they throw a ZJ clutch on the stock fan, or they go to an electric fan(s). Or at least that's my assumption. Does anyone know if there is a better mechanical fan out there that fits? I don't believe the blade profile ever really changed over the production run of the XJ, and it's not exactly a space aged design.

I wouldn't even worry and would just use a credit card or PayPal. I've been burned multiple times with stuff but never actually been out of money at the end. There's a POS iPhone sitting on my desk right now that I was burned on. Cost me a few minutes of my time, nothing else. I even told the seller that if they sent me a shipping label they could have it back, but they declined.

I don't know if I'd call Mishimoto a reputable company.

I replaced it with a ball valve in my XJ.

He really doesn't need it because he's not using his injectors for fuel delivery.

I had no idea the Liberian space program was so successful.

I wish I'd had a dad that could have at least given me that much advice. Ah well, I do okay for being a totally self taught numpty.

53007563AB Or get one from a HO (any, XJ/WJ/TJ/etc) in the junkyard for free. Just need a deep 15/16".

Most Renix era Jeeps don't have them working at this point. Since you can't really tell the difference, nobody fixes it when it fails. On my XJ the wires were all broken off. So I fixed it. I have no idea if anything changed after that.

I would like to buy more of those FSMs, but they're just expensive. I could really use an 87 or 88 one, and a 91 or 92. The Ford dealer near here tossed all their paper manuals a while back. Truckloads. They had it up on the buy and sell to come take whatever you wanted for free. The Dodge/Jeep dealer has long since got rid of theirs though...

There's just multiple P/Ns as they supersede them. There is a physical difference, but not a functional difference.

What Jeep Driver said is the easiest explanation. Generic: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=684506&cc=1180370&jsn=2933 Mopar: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10283388&cc=1180370&jsn=2934

There was somebody on here or eBay that was selling modified XJ units. I'd personally just mod an XJ one.